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- #61
Hey sarge - I bought 50ft of nickel-copper alloy so I should be in good shape. Is there any advantage to making templates from wire as opposed to just using the old lines themselves?
Replacing All Brake Lines - A Ton of Questions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter RWBeringer4x4
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Hey sarge - I bought 50ft of nickel-copper alloy so I should be in good shape. Is there any advantage to making templates from wire as opposed to just using the old lines themselves?
If you are replacing the lines, the easiest way to do it, as was stated earlier, is to pull the line and use it as a template for your bends. Also, you may have to modify your bends when nearing the soft line connection to account for the soft hose routing to the caliper. No big deal just something to remember when your building them.
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- #63
Yep - that's a given - when I get down toward the calipers, adjustments will need to be made! Same with right next to the MC, where I'll need to plumb in the proportioning valve.
Don't forget to copy the twists in the line, they are intentional to prevent the brakelines from fatiguing and breaking when the body and frame flex.
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- #65
I'm planning on it! I was assuming I could just wrap the line around a pipe, or something, for this step - and pray I don't kink it.
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- #67
Yeah, as I mentioned before - the bending itself is not the issue, getting it to bend where you want it to bend, however, is another story! Practice makes perfect I suppose...
I replaced all my brake lines several years ago. I bought tubing benders for the regular/uncomplicated bends. But, for the ones like the flex coils I found that large sockets with extensions, spray cans, 1.5" and 2" plastic pipe all worked good. You just need something with a bit of length to it to be able to hang onto, or clamp in a vise.
Don
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- #69
Ok, so I took a look at my brakelines, and have confirmed that they are (pretty much) not stock. Most importantly, I found that the soft drop lines are significantly longer than stock - particularly the drop to the rear axle.
According to SOR - these are the schematics to my truck:
Soft line #32, in the picture, is advertised as 19.5 inches and that is considered "longer than stock" replacement (for lifts, etc.). The hose on my truck is 33"... It runs from right around my rear transfer case cross member (AA Propeller shaft style) all the way to my rear axle. The catch is, I can't find anything along the frame (clips, etc.) to show where the original brake line would have run.
The front drop hose is 16 (hose #31)," which I believe is closer to "stock" length, but there are definitely some "loops" missing in the PO's hard lines.
I'm replacing all the hard lines, but I'm curious if anyone has a shot of the rear brake line routing, particularly where the soft line drops to the rear axle. This would help me orient a clip and get it set up correctly. Any shots would help! Thanks!
According to SOR - these are the schematics to my truck:
Soft line #32, in the picture, is advertised as 19.5 inches and that is considered "longer than stock" replacement (for lifts, etc.). The hose on my truck is 33"... It runs from right around my rear transfer case cross member (AA Propeller shaft style) all the way to my rear axle. The catch is, I can't find anything along the frame (clips, etc.) to show where the original brake line would have run.
The front drop hose is 16 (hose #31)," which I believe is closer to "stock" length, but there are definitely some "loops" missing in the PO's hard lines.
I'm replacing all the hard lines, but I'm curious if anyone has a shot of the rear brake line routing, particularly where the soft line drops to the rear axle. This would help me orient a clip and get it set up correctly. Any shots would help! Thanks!
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- #70
Does the thickness of a copper sealing washer matter? I'd assume it probably doesn't. I ask because the washers included with the 200SX hoses are significantly thicker (2X) than the ones I bought separately. The bajo bolt I'll be using is a little on the short side for comfort. It seems to snug up nicely, but with the thicker washers, I can get about 3-3.5 turns into the brake caliper. With the thinner washer, I get 4-4.5. In either case, the connection seems solid and unlikely to pull out, BUT, since they are brake components, I figure it better to err on the side of caution!
The difference is about 1 thread-turn:
The difference is about 1 thread-turn:
I don't see a problem with either.
I'd use the thinner ones, but that's just me.
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- #73
The lines snug down pretty well with either one of them, so I'm probably splitting hairs BUT
I'm with you - even though I'd probably be fine with either sealing washer, since it is a hydraulic brake line, I DEFINITELY want as much penetration by the bolt as possible. It's the last thing you want backing out.
Just wanted to make sure there wasn't a specific reason for the thickness of the washer.
Recently did this and I found thinner washers to use. I wasn't comfy with the thread engagement.
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- #75
Trying to work out what the heck is going on with my front brake lines. Here is what SOR says a 06/75 Front brake system should look like:
Now here is the routing of my front channel to the axle, currently:
It is kind of hard to tell, but the front channel goes backward, and follows the firewall rib down. The only "clip" so to speak is that it is wedged between the firewall rib, and a bolt. It leaves the rib and travels down the outside of the frame (below). There is a support (far right of the picture) sticking off the frame. The line then travels to this next "clip:" welded to the outside frame rail, where it ties in to the soft line, which in turn travels under the frame to the axle/T-junction.
Obviously, this isn't correct, and probably not safe (although it has held up OK so far. Any recommendations, or photos of how this looks, PROPERLY routed?
Now here is the routing of my front channel to the axle, currently:
It is kind of hard to tell, but the front channel goes backward, and follows the firewall rib down. The only "clip" so to speak is that it is wedged between the firewall rib, and a bolt. It leaves the rib and travels down the outside of the frame (below). There is a support (far right of the picture) sticking off the frame. The line then travels to this next "clip:" welded to the outside frame rail, where it ties in to the soft line, which in turn travels under the frame to the axle/T-junction.
Obviously, this isn't correct, and probably not safe (although it has held up OK so far. Any recommendations, or photos of how this looks, PROPERLY routed?
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- #76
Ok, so upon further research this actually doesn't seem THAT far off. It looks like for a stock 75, the line came straight down from the Master cylinder, with a single tab on the INSIDE of the frame rail where the the hard line meets the soft line.
I'm guessing the original tab had to be removed to place the V8 engine mounts, and this was the solution.
So my next question is this: Is it SAFE for the brake line to be outside of the frame rail like this? Should I try to find a route inside the frame rail instead?
I'm guessing the original tab had to be removed to place the V8 engine mounts, and this was the solution.
So my next question is this: Is it SAFE for the brake line to be outside of the frame rail like this? Should I try to find a route inside the frame rail instead?
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- #77
Bump - still curious as to whether you all think running this line outside of the frame rails is a bad idea...Seems more prone to getting snagged, but it IS up over the axles/springs so I might be being overly paranoid.
- Thread starter
- #78
Ok, calling out the gurus by name
@Rainman - resident brake line expert
@DSRTRDR - resident hardcore offroader
@Stumpalama - just plain knows more than I do about this stuff
@Cdaniel - because you have a V8 and might have dealt with this.
Can any of you speak to the line routing above? Is this just begging to catch a branch or am I OK? I'm guessing it was routed this way to avoid the V8 exhaust and engine mounts...
@Rainman - resident brake line expert
@DSRTRDR - resident hardcore offroader
@Stumpalama - just plain knows more than I do about this stuff
@Cdaniel - because you have a V8 and might have dealt with this.
Can any of you speak to the line routing above? Is this just begging to catch a branch or am I OK? I'm guessing it was routed this way to avoid the V8 exhaust and engine mounts...
Hrrmmm, if I had the opportunity to change it, I would. I am not familiar with early brake line routing. Can you run it along the top of the frame? Even use some stainless bolt on clips to secure it. Either way, I think they need to be tighter to the frame. There's gotta be some room low on the inside, blow the headers, right?
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- #80
@Stumpalama - That is sort of my thought as well. The original routing was almost straight down from the master cylinder, down through the gap in the inner fender to a clip somewhere around the engine or shock mount, where it mated to a soft line, which ran to the front axle. I'll have to take a look at exactly what I'm working with on the top or inside of the frame rail to see if it is plausible. How close to the exhaust is too close? I'm guessing I have plenty of space considering there is a steering column between the header and frame...
The main issue is the engine mount, which is right where the original tab should be, and also right over top of the T-fitting on the axle. I think anchoring the hard/soft mating point would be tricky, but I'll have to take a closer look to be sure.
