Hey fellas so i hop in my car yesterday start her up no worries warm her up, turn the choke off and it stalls. I turn her back on pull the choke out warm it up more, still stalls when i push the choke in. what is going on? it has been in the rain
fj45 2f all of a sudden not running after choke is off
- Thread starter yomumsbum
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Sounds like fuel delivery issue. Clogged fuel filter - wet paper element will not pass fuel - put in a new one and let the old one dry out, can be used again. Put some gas drier in your tank too.
Weak fuel pump, clogged jets in carb.
Weak fuel pump, clogged jets in carb.
Choke richens the mixture, vac leaks dilute the mixture. At low rpm vac leaks cause big issues, at high rpms vac leaks have less impacts due to volume of leak vs flow from the carb.
I don't think its a vac leak problem but easy enough to test for them. With engine cold and running, use a spray can of like WD40 and quickly direct the spray around the base and other joints of the carb if RPM's kick up there is your leak. Then do the engine intake manifold joint. Do this outside and have a fire extinguisher handy just in case.
I don't think its a vac leak problem but easy enough to test for them. With engine cold and running, use a spray can of like WD40 and quickly direct the spray around the base and other joints of the carb if RPM's kick up there is your leak. Then do the engine intake manifold joint. Do this outside and have a fire extinguisher handy just in case.
- Thread starter
- #7
More CONTEXT. I replaced the inline fuel filter and it fixed the issue, then i drove around a couple times. then went to the fuel station this morning and once i turned the car back on the issue returned and i had to drive home with the choke 1/4 out
Put some gas drier in the tank. If there is a lot of condensation in the tank, then your fuel filter is plugged again.
Hotwire the ics until you're done troubleshooting.
1. Disconnect fuel solenoid connection. Run hot wire to positive side (wh/blk) and ground wire to black side of pins. Listen for click. Should click every time you give it 12v.
2. Tap on your computer if you have one. Take it off, blow it out. It’s on firewall behind fuse block.
This just happened to me this week on my 79 (ca) 2f. I have a ghost problem with lost idle and I believe it is the computer. Happens 1-2 times a year. I think the computer Doesn’t regulate the Carb fuel solenoid right. I also suspect possible ground issue with computer b/c mine was repainted. Incidentally, I was installing a radio this week too so wires got jostled on fuse block just prior to lost idle issue, so I also took that off and inspected connections. I did the above two steps to troubleshoot and been back on the road since. Good luck
2. Tap on your computer if you have one. Take it off, blow it out. It’s on firewall behind fuse block.
This just happened to me this week on my 79 (ca) 2f. I have a ghost problem with lost idle and I believe it is the computer. Happens 1-2 times a year. I think the computer Doesn’t regulate the Carb fuel solenoid right. I also suspect possible ground issue with computer b/c mine was repainted. Incidentally, I was installing a radio this week too so wires got jostled on fuse block just prior to lost idle issue, so I also took that off and inspected connections. I did the above two steps to troubleshoot and been back on the road since. Good luck
The emission "computer" is well-known for the cold-soldered connections from the harness plug to the circuit board to crack, causing an intermittent open, and hence the circuit to the fuel cut (idle) solenoid to not be completed. @Engineer8000 can repair the computer, or you can try and re-flow the solder connections on the board yourself, or you can do what I did and find the pin on the computer plug harness that goes to the FCS and ground it permanently.
That’s great info @1911 thank you. The issue came back this morning and was cured by pushing on the wiring plug going into the unit. Kids were pretty bummed and thought we had to take the Prius to school lol. Unfortunately it is getting worse and needs addressed. I’ve opened it up before but nothing was glaring on the motherboard as fried or disconnected. I will most likely diy this. Do you have any pics?
You're welcome. I don't have any pics handy. There is a thread here somewhere that shows the computer with the cover off; you can see where the harness plug connection is soldered in to the circuit board. If you just want to turn the solenoid on with ignition like I did (and not mess with the circuit board solder), all you have to do is find the wire that comes from the solenoid to the computer, tap into that line, and ground it.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
This is confusing - if the QLD fella has issues, he has a 1 wire solenoid and the ground switch issue doesn't apply, so just supplying reliable power should resolve.
But the other fella with a '79 needs to open up the computer, and reflow all the connector solder points, quick 5min job to inspect and reflow.
But the other fella with a '79 needs to open up the computer, and reflow all the connector solder points, quick 5min job to inspect and reflow.
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- #15
yeah mate, this is my setup. one black wire and a yellow that goes to the temperature sender.
I put some fuel cleaner in the tank last night and started it up this morning it runs with the choke in... for now
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- #17
the inside and back of the computer board look fine, the full cut off does click, its getting power
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- #18
do you have a picture of a bad board?
Unfortunately no, though there were some posted here a long time ago as I remember.
- Thread starter
- #20
hey man what do you mean by providing it reliable power? It does click when the ignition is on, is that not enough? the carby is an asain carb i got from maxspeedingrods around 4 months ago