Replace radiator preventatively

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SICARIO

SICARIO

Joined
Oct 28, 2016
Threads
44
Messages
155
Location
Oregon
I'm getting ready to do my timing belt service. in addition to timing belt kit/seals/water pump, I'm also planning to replace serpentine belt/tensioner/idler/fan bracket/thermostat/radiator hoses.

The truck has 130K miles on it, and the radiator looks to be in decent shape. Is there any good reason to swap it out for a new Denso unit while I'm doing the rest of the work?
 
If it’s in decent shape then no. If it’s showing significant browning on the top, or if extremely dirty coolant comes out when you open the bottom petcock then leave it alone. There seems to be strong differing opinions towards ‘preventatively’ replacing things such as the radiator.....
 
There are definitely differing opinions when it comes to preventatively replacing certain components. I did my TB/WP as well as a slew of other parts at 180k miles and went ahead and replaced the radiator with a Denso unit as well as hoses/etc as I noticed a little bit of residue on the bottom of the radiator. Hadn't failed and didn't confirm if it was a leak or residue but I figured it would be good to replace while I was in there as they're fairly inexpensive.
 
i say go ahead and replace it after all these trucks are getting some years on them and when the rad fails it blows up and usually cooks the engine. don't forget the T's
 
If it ain't broke don't fix it.

You will only blow up your engine if you do not pay attention to the gauges and fluid levels.

Discipline equals freedom.

Check your fluid levels once a week. Tire pressures once a month. Spare tire condition and pressure twice a year. Lube all locks and hinges twice a year.
Checking the fluids once a week (takes all of 1min) will give you a heads up of problems before they become problems.
Keeping an eye on your gauges lets you know to stop driving before a problem becomes serious.

Save your money and only replace things as needed.
 
New member and radiator on my 99 LC is on its way out. I have been looking at sourcing a new radiator and not sure which direction to go. i am seeing prices from $180 - $400. Looking for a reliable replacement doesnt have to be Toyota. Any recommendations? I see Denso ITEM : # DEN221-3152 on the threads and found a Spectra Premium CU2282 on Amazon.
 
I have used TYC brand from Amazon on several of my LC/LXs with zero problems. They are about $140 and a couple have actually shown up in a KOYO box which I believe is Toyota OEM.
 
I'm replaced another with a CSF (G1000130859CSF) this week, I picked up from Advance Auto. It was a Toyota dealership wholesale parts department that turned me on to these. They said it's what the shop uses for customer cars. I also go with new OEM hoses on these. But I found they weep at lower hose nipple. A casting groove needs filing and filling with 1282B FIPG, to stop weep.

Toyota OEM Radiator, which comes with all foam seals, are sweet. They save time, not needing to swap out the foam or fill the lower hose casting groove. Is worth the couple of hundred dollars more for the OEM.

I'm one of the those in mud, that started this light "brown plastic" top as being a sign. Yes, it can be and indicator of condition of plastic. But of the three radiators I've replaced in last year. One was on a blown engine that had heat damage on upper goose neck. The other two did not have browning on tops and were between 180K & 230K miles. These two were leaking at upper seal area (main body to top).

I've one now with 350K miles and very light brown. I've scheduled (no hurry) it for replacements as upper goose neck is brittle and breaking up, but no leaks. If I was going on long trip or deep off road I would replace first. But for just driving around locally, I'm in no hurry.
 
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Depends on how the cooling system has been maintained. Do you have a Scanguage or similar tool to monitor coolant temps? Consistent operating temps over 210F might be an indicator of the failing health of the cooling system. What is the color of the top tank- faded, browning, cracking/crazing? How does the filler neck look?

With regular cooling system maint. the 100 series OEM rads can go 200+k miles. Longevity of the plastic tanks is high heat cycle related and also impacted by chemical degradation: run it low on coolant for extended period of time its going to get hot, introduce air, age the plastic tank and it weakens. Never change the coolant and the chemical composition of the coolant changes to a more corrosive mix causing plastic to degrade and scale/scum build up in the aluminum cooling rows and runs hot or worse. Environment plays a factor as well; obviously if you live in Havasu AZ where its 120 in the summer vs Traverse City Mi where its 70 in the summer your going to get better longevity in cooler climate.

This is a pic of my inlet at 187k- the edges of the inlet are brittle and crazed- could break apart. The top tank was getting brown but not cracking. The inside of the tank looked clean up top, but there was some cooling issues with the rad where my normal operating temps were higher than I liked so I changed it at 187k. Prob could have gone 20k-30k more miles maybe more but who knows. I saved the radiator ( I am a used part hoarder, but maybe someone might need it at some point)

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Thanks for all the input. Top plastic is brown and there is a 3inch crack on top and others starting to propagate. I have a new radiator on order but is about a week out. Any recommendations on temp fixs? I am monitoring coolant and was considering adding alumaseal to the coolant or water weld (on the exterior) to buy some time. Thoughts?

Also going to check or replace the lower hose as there seems to be a slow leak there as well.
 
Nothing temp you can do- if its already buttoned back up just drive and monitor until your new rad comes in. If youre still torn down- just wait till it comes in to complete so you dont waste fresh coolant.
 
I would not wait until radiator turns brown. Toyota oem radiators lasts 20+ years and people just wait it to start a leak to get a replacement, what they dont know is the transmission cooler is rusting out inside the radiator. Many 3rd gen 4runner and 1st gen tacoma owners find coolant in the transmission!. If the radiator is oem replace it every 15 years, aftermarket, may be every 10 years?
 
Regardless the condition, if you are going to do TB, bracket is no brainer. But then you might as well change the serp belt and tensioner.

I also changed the rad, upper + lower hoses, T's with connective hoses and Alternator in my 2007 and 2005 LCs. It might be excessive, but it was a peace of mind to me.
 
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if you have the coin do it, Ive seen several 20+ year old toyota rads with as many as 270k miles. That being said Ill be doing mine soon preventatively, look between the condenser/rad for hair, dirt, dust ect build up in the middle of the exchanger. often have lots of build up ( and can be cleaned I cleaned my 21 year old corolla rad and stuck it right back in ) but is a good sign of needing replacement and reduced cooling ability.
 
CorporalClegg said:
....... look between the condenser/rad for hair, dirt, dust ect build up in the middle of the exchanger. often have lots of build up ( and can be cleaned I cleaned my 21 year old corolla rad and stuck it right back in ) but is a good sign of needing replacement and reduced cooling ability.
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Like this....

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I replaced mine at ~250k as it was pretty brown with surface cracking throughout the top section. The hose outlet/inlet were worn, but not terrible. No leaking at time of replacement.

I went Denso and it didn't come with the foam. That's my only negative point about it. Perfect fitment, top notch quality from the exterior appearance.

I'd err on the side of caution and replace once it's browned and cracking on the top, but I know I'm heavily leaned towards the preventative crowd.
 
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