Replace A/C Evaporator core & Expansion Valve (2 Viewers)

[fooldall1]

OK, I found:



For those clips.

 

[chukstel]

I just did it. It is actually not bad at all.....if you take the short cut of cuttin the plastic rail that holds up the glove box.

From under the bonnet at the firewall there are the black plastic clamps surrounding the two pipes. Use a pick or something with small point and press down on the two brass squares to release the clamp. Once they are off just pull the two pipes straight out. Make sure the system has been evacuated and under no pressure before removing the clamps.

Take off glove box with two screws on bottom. Two screws on top corners takes out the black plastic liner. Unhook couple electrical connectors you will see. Then two gold screws takes off the small black box from evaporator cover. Take off narrow filter cover on right side of evaporator (about 4" long). Take out two filters. Then 8 small screws takes off the evaporator cover. Then the evaporator pulls out. Really tight by holding both ends of already cut plastic rail.

Expansion valve has the two allen screws. Mine were pretty corroded and hard to get out. I sprayed liquid wrench on it. Using allen head inside socket and ratchet, it finally came out. i replaced the bolts with hex head stainless bolts. After removing. Make sure to replace two O-rings on the new evaporator going into expansion valve, two O-rings on pipe connector goin into other side of expansion valve and two O-rings on each of the steel lines under hood.

Replace evaporator in reverse order.

IMO, when cutting the plastic rail under glove box...... it may be better to use a small hack saw (the smallest sharpest blade possible). Make the cut just to the right of the left screw hole so there is more support to hold glove box. Make the cut at an angle so that the long side to the right can fit back on the left side with more surface area to glue back...if that makes sense.

When I did mine, I just bend down the plastic rail downwards and bring out the evaporator. You don't need to cut it.

 

[fooldall1]

I just did it. It is actually not bad at all.....if you take the short cut of cuttin the plastic rail that holds up the glove box.

From under the bonnet at the firewall there are the black plastic clamps surrounding the two pipes. Use a pick or something with small point and press down on the two brass squares to release the clamp. Once they are off just pull the two pipes straight out. Make sure the system has been evacuated and under no pressure before removing the clamps.

Take off glove box with two screws on bottom. Two screws on top corners takes out the black plastic liner. Unhook couple electrical connectors you will see. Then two gold screws takes off the small black box from evaporator cover. Take off narrow filter cover on right side of evaporator (about 4" long). Take out two filters. Then 8 small screws takes off the evaporator cover. Then the evaporator pulls out. Really tight by holding both ends of already cut plastic rail.

Expansion valve has the two allen screws. Mine were pretty corroded and hard to get out. I sprayed liquid wrench on it. Using allen head inside socket and ratchet, it finally came out. i replaced the bolts with hex head stainless bolts. After removing. Make sure to replace two O-rings on the new evaporator going into expansion valve, two O-rings on pipe connector goin into other side of expansion valve and two O-rings on each of the steel lines under hood.

Replace evaporator in reverse order.

IMO, when cutting the plastic rail under glove box...... it may be better to use a small hack saw (the smallest sharpest blade possible). Make the cut just to the right of the left screw hole so there is more support to hold glove box. Make the cut at an angle so that the long side to the right can fit back on the left side with more surface area to glue back...if that makes sense.

You say you replaced the bolts with stainless hex head bolts..what size, type,thread pattern etc? I'm only asking because I think these arent the original bolts because they are 4mm..not 5 as the FSM states and were so bad they both stripped and broke off inside the old core-expansion valve

 

[fooldall1]

This bolt was corroded and clearly overtorqued. My Dewalt and the screw extractor worked but this Damn bolt crapped out

 

[BullElk]

Gracious... I don’t know remember what the screw specs were. Dang

 

[gatormark91]

This bolt was corroded and clearly overtorqued. My Dewalt and the screw extractor worked but this Damn bolt crapped out

View attachment 1780211

Lowe's at Waterford Lakes has a pretty good selection of metric cap head bolts (I live near @fooldall1)

 

[gatormark91]

Lowe's at Waterford Lakes has a pretty good selection of metric cap head bolts (I live near @fooldall1)

Oops.. hex head, I think those are? Still good selection.

 

[fooldall1]

I got some from Ace, that look really similar but i will just sweat it out and order them Friday. Lowe's didn't have anything similar. Because these broke off inside the threads of the old Evap core-- I have no idea how long they're supposed to be.

Well, they're only 3 buck a piece from Toyota- @gatormark91 I will get an extra three for you as well for when you do your Evap. Another Poster above mentioned his broke in there as well. Must have something to do with heat/cold/heat/cold and moisture. Stainless does sound like a MUCH better option.

 

[gatormark91]

I got some from Ace, that look really similar but i will just sweat it out and order them Friday. Lowe's didn't have anything similar. Because these broke off inside the threads of the old Evap core-- I have no idea how long they're supposed to be.

Well, they're only 3 buck a piece from Toyota- @gatormark91 I will get an extra three for you as well for when you do your Evap. Another Poster above mentioned his broke in there as well. Must have something to do with heat/cold/heat/cold and moisture. Stainless does sound like a MUCH better option.

Thanks! If those bolts are steel, and the core is aluminum, bi-metallic corrosion is probably the culprit.

 

[flintknapper]

For those clips.

^^^^ Yep.

I'm not a particularly frugal person...especially when it comes to tools. But this one was a 'no-brainer' even for me.

 

[bucfl]

In case your interested i have been dealing with a a leaky AC system and have another thread going with pics that may help you.

AC Leak?

 

[fooldall1]

In case your interested i have been dealing with a a leaky AC system and have another thread going with pics that may help you.

AC Leak?

Thanks Man!

 

[fooldall1]

^^^^ Yep.

I'm not a particularly frugal person...especially when it comes to tools. But this one was a 'no-brainer' even for me.

View attachment 1787129

Yup..took a while to find and clip a bobby pin LOL

 

[fooldall1]

The core was in very bad shape... also, the original expansion valve had some type of tar tape on it. Is that required? Originally, I guess it insulatesthe valve? Also, don't forget to remove the old white slide tray from the evap core when you replace it.

 

[fooldall1]

I plan on also cleaning the fan as posted above before reassembling the whole thing.

 

[gatormark91]

If that black crap is body sealer, I have a tube of black 3M body sealer you can borrow. Stickiest nastiest crap ever, does the job.

 

[fooldall1]

There are several folks on the forum that have 3D printers. Someone just print out a damn mending plate (it can have logo on it if you like) that will screw in place over the cut and reconnect the two pieces. You wouldn't know the factory didn't do it.

We'll all buy one and all this 'worry' will be done with.

What is the favored method for repairing once cut?

 

[fooldall1]

Nearly done. System is sealed back up, all that's left is to make the repairs to the cross member and put the glovebox back on. Oh yeah - and install new filters.

 

[flintknapper]

You've got it looking really good. Excellent job!

 

[beachbumin]

Looks like I'll be tackling this one asap. Had mine inspected and charged today and freon didnt even last 2 hours.....