I called the Denso customer service line (I got the number from the Denso evap core "instructions" that came in the box) and talked to an extremely knowledgeable guy----on everything to do with auto AC systems in general btw....(ask for Steve if you call them)---and he advised to add about 40 cc Pag-46 oil--preferably without dye additives, etc.....just the basic oil. Just pour it into the larger hole he said. I actually "measured" it out with a shot glass lol...but I know there are more scientifically valid ways to do this. Anyway its still good to go! If you replace the condenser, you would have to add more oil to that I guess but not sure amount that would be...ask Steve.....!
Replace A/C Evaporator core & Expansion Valve (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jeepgod
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I used a measuring squirter from my kids medicine....
This has all been super helpful. I got my system recharged and it lasted about a month. My shop said it was difficult to find the leak but finally found it in the evaporator. He was booked out a couple weeks and in the meantime I decided to start the job myself. Here is what I found.
Best I can tell the evaporator was replaced previously. There was black sticky caulk like sealant at the bottom, the core looks very clean and I do not see any evidence of dye. Additionally, there appears to be dye on the line near the front passenger wheel well, which makes me wonder if the leak is elsewhere.
What do you think?
Still replace evap?
Is the rear air on the same system/charge?
Any guidance is appreciated!
Best I can tell the evaporator was replaced previously. There was black sticky caulk like sealant at the bottom, the core looks very clean and I do not see any evidence of dye. Additionally, there appears to be dye on the line near the front passenger wheel well, which makes me wonder if the leak is elsewhere.
What do you think?
Still replace evap?
Is the rear air on the same system/charge?
Any guidance is appreciated!
My system lost its charge in about a month. Before that, it held for several seasons so I know it's gotten worse. Took it to an A/C specialist in Atlanta that my mechanic recommended. He said I need a new compressor, fan and evaporator to the tune of about $2,500! He said they found leaks in both the compressor and evaporator and that the fan wasn't kicking on when it should. As much as I'd love to ignore one or more of the recommendations, I don't have any reason to think he is exaggerating the issues. One reason for the huge labor cost though is that he said they need to remove the dash. After viewing this thread, it sure seems like cutting the plastic support is a great workaround. Calling him now to see if he would do it this way.
Shout out to Brad at Auto Cool in Atlanta. He was happy to hear about the workaround. Said it would save me about 8 hours in labor costs and he could work me in whenever vs sometime in August. I'll be doing the cut myself and bringing it to him with the glovebox removed.
You might connect 12vdc directly to the condenser fan to see if it will run. It might not need to be replaced. There are several reasons why it would not come on. Its not supposed to come on until the high side pressure reaches about 220 psi. It is wired into the trinary switch *pressure switch* and comes on and goes off as needed.
Thanks for the specs with that. I mentioned to the tech that some people add an auxillary fan to help at idle/lower speeds. I'm assuming it's because the factory fan comes on relatively late. I also haven't had a cooling problem at idle as long as I have a full charge of refrigerant. And that's living in Ga. I might push back on replacing the fan. Unless it's a "while you're in there" repair. Doesn't seem like it would be though.
Got my evaporator and condenser replaced. Saved about $800 in labor by cutting the glove box support. But now I’m having trouble really securing it so the glove box hangs properly. I used a little metal plate and some nuts and bolts as shown in the photo. But the weight of the box pushes it down. Afraid to tighten the bolts any further as they will just go through the plastic. Any thoughts on additional support? Thanks.
Get rid of the Flathead screws and replace with panhead screws. Remove what you have now (glovebox) get some 'good' 3M double sided high contact tape, put it between the metal and plastic then screw it back down (use a PANHEAD screw). Let it sit for awhile, then re-tighten so that the double sided tape is fully compressed. Then reinstall the glove box.
This 'C-Section' method of removing the evaporator does indeed make it easier to remove the evaporator...but someone with a 3D printer needs to come up with an easy way to put it all back together. There is a good business opportunity there for someone inventive.
A 3-D solve would be great! I will say to everyone, do this at your own peril. I took @flintknapper’s advice and used some pan head screws with heavy duty double stick tape. I also sandwiched two metal plates to really tighten it down.
The weight of the box still pushes it down just a bit. It’s not the end of the world but the box is slightly crooked when closed. I might try to build up some JB Weld or something similar in the space where I cut the support to really fuse the two sides together. Then add the plates again for extra reinforcement. Open to other suggestions though.
Your flat metal is not nearly as wide as I had imagined. Perhaps a piece of aluminum 'angle' would provide better support on the backside. You have a lot of 'gap' to support there. Keep at it, you're almost there.
fooldall1
Handy Enthusiast
This is EXACTLY what I did, too.
Red Beard
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@Jfcol @fooldall1 I created one for my evap core change a couple weeks ago.
forum.ih8mud.com
Bracket for cut glovebox support bar, no screws required
Go from a cut glovebox support to a fully functional one again. If you have cut the plastic glovebox support bar to service the evaporator, this bracket is for you. Normally to repair the severed support bar, you'd need to purchase some sort of metal bracket and attach 2 or 4 screws to hold...
forum.ih8mud.com
That is slick! I wish I could turn back time. Mine is holding up with a combination of a bracket and JB Weld. I just hope I never have to cut it again.@Jfcol @fooldall1 I created one for my evap core change a couple weeks ago.
Bracket for cut glovebox support bar, no screws required
Go from a cut glovebox support to a fully functional one again. If you have cut the plastic glovebox support bar to service the evaporator, this bracket is for you. Normally to repair the severed support bar, you'd need to purchase some sort of metal bracket and attach 2 or 4 screws to hold...
