Replace A/C Evaporator core & Expansion Valve

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Sep 19, 2009
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The A/C stopped working and after charging it I have found the leak to be somewhere behind the dash. When I charge I can see refrigerant coming back out from the rubber boots around the lines that go behind the dash. How much work is it to take apart the dash and is this something that a weekend mechanic will be able to tackle.
 
You can make a strategic cut on the plastic rail that your glove box sits on to avoid removing the entire instrument panel. This provides just enough room to get the core in and out.
 
^^ THIS!
Remove the glovebox, then use a thin hacksaw blade (mini hacksaw is best) to cut the bottom strip far enough left to clear the evaporator. The right side will bend out of the way easily.
Use a strip of flat Al stock as backing and a few csunk screws to rejoin the strip. The cut is out of sight one the glovebox is replaced.
 
You can't see it unless you stick your head under the glove box. The first pic is from an OCD passenger view point. The second pic is the epoxied back together glove box rail.

image-640147422.webp


image-2674966026.webp
 
Australian landcruisers used to come without A/C, it was a dealer fit option, my 2003 has the cut mentioned, they did it this way to save time fitting it I think.
 
Is there any other thread on how to replace the evaporator on a serie 100?
 
No luck finding that thread huh? I could use the "replacing evaporator" thread as well.
 
I just did it. It is actually not bad at all.....if you take the short cut of cuttin the plastic rail that holds up the glove box.

From under the bonnet at the firewall there are the black plastic clamps surrounding the two pipes. Use a pick or something with small point and press down on the two brass squares to release the clamp. Once they are off just pull the two pipes straight out. Make sure the system has been evacuated and under no pressure before removing the clamps.

Take off glove box with two screws on bottom. Two screws on top corners takes out the black plastic liner. Unhook couple electrical connectors you will see. Then two gold screws takes off the small black box from evaporator cover. Take off narrow filter cover on right side of evaporator (about 4" long). Take out two filters. Then 8 small screws takes off the evaporator cover. Then the evaporator pulls out. Really tight by holding both ends of already cut plastic rail.

Expansion valve has the two allen screws. Mine were pretty corroded and hard to get out. I sprayed liquid wrench on it. Using allen head inside socket and ratchet, it finally came out. i replaced the bolts with hex head stainless bolts. After removing. Make sure to replace two O-rings on the new evaporator going into expansion valve, two O-rings on pipe connector goin into other side of expansion valve and two O-rings on each of the steel lines under hood.

Replace evaporator in reverse order.

IMO, when cutting the plastic rail under glove box...... it may be better to use a small hack saw (the smallest sharpest blade possible). Make the cut just to the right of the left screw hole so there is more support to hold glove box. Make the cut at an angle so that the long side to the right can fit back on the left side with more surface area to glue back...if that makes sense.
 
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The princess will not agree to cutting the dash and her OCD will spot it right away. Assuming its worth the fight how much time with it save and how hard is it to squeeze it out.

Tell 'princess' she is OVERRULED on this one unless SHE wants to get out there and help you. ;)

I'm married to an OCD too (33 years now)...she'll get over it, so just do it.

She'll never forget it (but what woman does).
She'll bring it up out of the blue during some argument not even remotely related to the vehicle (but that's what women do).
She'll tell all her friends when they are having a man bashing contest, (but again...that's what women do).

Just fix the damn thing, don't ask permission...and get started NOW.

Flint.
 
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That doesn't look to bad. How long does it take to do it this way!

There are several folks on the forum that have 3D printers. Someone just print out a damn mending plate (it can have logo on it if you like) that will screw in place over the cut and reconnect the two pieces. You wouldn't know the factory didn't do it.

We'll all buy one and all this 'worry' will be done with.
 
Flintknapper.....Now you cooking with gas!!!
 
Doing this tomorrow!
 
I just did it. It is actually not bad at all.....if you take the short cut of cuttin the plastic rail that holds up the glove box.

From under the bonnet at the firewall there are the black plastic clamps surrounding the two pipes. Use a pick or something with small point and press down on the two brass squares to release the clamp. Once they are off just pull the two pipes straight out. Make sure the system has been evacuated and under no pressure before removing the clamps.

Take off glove box with two screws on bottom. Two screws on top corners takes out the black plastic liner. Unhook couple electrical connectors you will see. Then two gold screws takes off the small black box from evaporator cover. Take off narrow filter cover on right side of evaporator (about 4" long). Take out two filters. Then 8 small screws takes off the evaporator cover. Then the evaporator pulls out. Really tight by holding both ends of already cut plastic rail.

Expansion valve has the two allen screws. Mine were pretty corroded and hard to get out. I sprayed liquid wrench on it. Using allen head inside socket and ratchet, it finally came out. i replaced the bolts with hex head stainless bolts. After removing. Make sure to replace two O-rings on the new evaporator going into expansion valve, two O-rings on pipe connector goin into other side of expansion valve and two O-rings on each of the steel lines under hood.

Replace evaporator in reverse order.

IMO, when cutting the plastic rail under glove box...... it may be better to use a small hack saw (the smallest sharpest blade possible). Make the cut just to the right of the left screw hole so there is more support to hold glove box. Make the cut at an angle so that the long side to the right can fit back on the left side with more surface area to glue back...if that makes sense.


Gold!


Any guides with pics anyone ou there have bookmarked with the above procedure?
 
OK, the FSM was pretty helpful in this case.


a few questions, though- where does one add the 40cc of PAG Compressor oil to the core? aslo, can someone describe a bit better how thoe plastic clips on the firewall actually release without the Special Tool?
 
Still can't get these dang plastic clips from the lines under the hood- I don't see any brass squares as described above on them. Also, the FSM calls for 30cc of PAG46 to be injected into the new core prior to install. and to use the same for lubing the new O-Rings.
 
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