Removing the Roof Rails (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter FirstToyota
- Start date
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I appreciate that. They broke the tabs on one of the silver covers, but I didn’t say anything about it. Don’t plan on putting it on as long as I own the truck. Here are a few photos.
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2003
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- 72
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- 2,937
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- Broomfield, Colorado
- Website
- www.gamiviti.com
not a bad idea... I've done quite a few of these and have been really successful with a nice ratchet, just being careful to not push down as I turn, but I've never tried heat. You'll have to push down to break them free the first time, but after that just go really slow with a lot of leverage from the side, don't push down and definitely don't use a cordless impact thinking it will make it go faster... that vibration is not your friend here. It's also possible to fish the little carriers back up if one drops, which I've done a few times also, but prefer to not have to go there... but if you need it I've got a write-up for that on the website: Installation tips — Gamiviti
Thanks for the advice! Went smoothly, no issues whatsoever. Glad I read this thread prior to removing the rack.
I had some issues on my 4 runner with not using enough sealant. It probably goes without saying, but be very generous with silicone. I ended up removing my front runner rack on my 200 to reseal to just be extra safe.
I used a Hershey kiss size amount of silicone on all of them. Same when I did my Tacoma and I never had an issue, hope this one holds up too!
That gave me another idea: I have a "plastic welder" (basically like a low cost special purpose soldering iron). One could use that (or maybe an actual soldering iron) to apply heat directly to the bolts.
HTH
ATwoZ
SILVER Star
Ugh, well add me to the list of people that wishes they had found this thread first. I swapped my LX rack with an LC rack (longer to hold snowboards easier), and two of the mount points I had issues with - although I'm inclined to think the previous owner hit something at the roof as the bolts were at an odd angle. Suffice it to say, once they were removed there was no more nut on the back. Since the conversion meant the problematic spots weren't being used (only the rear mount is common between the two) (LX uses mounts 2 and 4; LC uses 1,3 and 4) I just used some silicone and plugged the holes for now. Given some of the comments in here I might try fishing around to see if I can find the nut. Otherwise I may go the nutzert route with some leftovers from the sliders.
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2003
- Threads
- 72
- Messages
- 2,937
- Location
- Broomfield, Colorado
- Website
- www.gamiviti.com
@ATwoZ I'm just up in Broomfield and willing to help you if you need it, lmk.
And everyone else, I put together a video on this today... actually shot the footage last December so technically just got around to getting the video done. Hopefully it's helpful... at the 1:25 mark and again 2:30 mark I explain a little more about these nut carriers. Hope this is helpful to the next guy.
And everyone else, I put together a video on this today... actually shot the footage last December so technically just got around to getting the video done. Hopefully it's helpful... at the 1:25 mark and again 2:30 mark I explain a little more about these nut carriers. Hope this is helpful to the next guy.
Thanks for this video. I'll be swapping LX rails for LC today so the timing was perfect. I've been a little stressed about removing the factory bolts and watching this video helps boost the confidence level.
Just got my Gamiviti Expo ++ Installed yesterday. Watched the videos on removing the factory rack and installing the new rack a couple of times each before doing the job. My step dad and I got the rack on in a couple of hours with no issues. The videos definitely helped. Very happy with my new rack. Ill be posting up some pics as soon as I have a chance to wash off all the pollen.
That was a nervous event, but I got the LX570 rack off and the TLC rack on. Thanks @JSKII for passing on your rack.
I have the LX570 rack bits (all gen 1) in a silver color. The back two corners are good the front ones cracked a bit from removal. I have the LX570 rails and bars. These are all available for shipping only (probably after the Covid calms down). PM me if you want any of this stuff. I'll bin it around the end of March.
I have the LX570 rack bits (all gen 1) in a silver color. The back two corners are good the front ones cracked a bit from removal. I have the LX570 rails and bars. These are all available for shipping only (probably after the Covid calms down). PM me if you want any of this stuff. I'll bin it around the end of March.
Cross Bars spoken for by @CharlieS
The OEM crossbars are surprisingly beefy.
@grinchy Did you have to lengthen (drill wider holes) on your old LX rails. I need to go get mine from storage so I can have 4 like you. I just realized the LC rack is wider.
No I had an extra pair of the wider size already from a rack I got last year that was a two pad.
I guess they could be extended.... But I didn't try. Any additional cross bars I'll make out of 1020
I guess they could be extended.... But I didn't try. Any additional cross bars I'll make out of 1020
orttauq
SILVER Star
Installing a Prinsu rack on 2015 LX is my current C-19 Project.
Drivers side bolts came out fairly easy with the captive nut plate staying put. When I started the passenger side I could tell the captive nut plates were both broken loose with a lot of up and down movement. There was some damage to the OEM rack so I am guessing there was some work in the past. One of the rubber grommets was missing too.
Using specialized tools (copper wire) I was able to keep the rear plate in place until I got the rack foot off and out of the way to get a bolt back in one of the holes.
The front capture plate was all messed up and I lost it down in the headliner. LED light down in one hole, I played Operation until I recovered it. FUN
Two different 'glues' in gutter/seam that will take a few hours to clean-up
I had to stop and glue the 2 captive nut plates in place as best I could and wait overnight...more to come.
Drivers side bolts came out fairly easy with the captive nut plate staying put. When I started the passenger side I could tell the captive nut plates were both broken loose with a lot of up and down movement. There was some damage to the OEM rack so I am guessing there was some work in the past. One of the rubber grommets was missing too.
Using specialized tools (copper wire) I was able to keep the rear plate in place until I got the rack foot off and out of the way to get a bolt back in one of the holes.
The front capture plate was all messed up and I lost it down in the headliner. LED light down in one hole, I played Operation until I recovered it. FUN
Two different 'glues' in gutter/seam that will take a few hours to clean-up
I had to stop and glue the 2 captive nut plates in place as best I could and wait overnight...more to come.
