Remove lower control arm on-frame No. 2 Bushing: dimensions and parts to do it are attached (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

Seems no one in mud, has any info on No.2 bushing spacers.

I stop in a Toyota dealership yesterday, and talked with master tech (22 yrs.) He does the most suspension work in the shop. When I ask about pressing in bushing and the spacer, he had no idea. Said we just replace the LCA, not bushing. But he was not talking 100 series, just Toyota in general. It is what I see in; Dealership installed ball joints (LCA). They don't touch the No.2 bushings.

 

[OwnerCS]

Yeah, I also use cup from press kit. Pressing only on metal rim of bushing. I use a receiver cup also. After, I've orient/clock the bushing in the frame, once I've removing the rubber cap from the bushing. Many miss "clocking" these and front diff bushing.

Yeah this one I'm doing, by looks of old bushings and nuts and bolts, installer did not loosen bushing bolts and re-torque once laden. Not re-torquing may result to early failure.

One of the biggest PITA of the job, which I need a solution for in future jobs. Is torquing nuts once laden (tires on ground and T-bar set). Because getting a 1/2" or 3/4" torque wrench on the bushing nuts of bolts to torque to 170ft-lbf, I've just to little room to swing the wrench. I'm thinking about using drive on ramps.

BTW: I torque all 8 (LCA bushings, shocks lowers and links bolts), once laden.

Good deal. That finishing torque touch I had to pay to get it done on one of these machines. It wasn't cheap since it's not part of a routine alignment.

 

[2001LC]

I wish I had the room and height, for any lift. It is such PITA without.

 

[OwnerCS]

I wish I had the room and height, for any lift. It is such PITA without.

I'd be happy with a level place to work.

 

[AlpineAccess]

I put the thin washer/spacer in on the #2 bushing. I had no issue pressing them with a 12t press after buffing with some emery cloth.

 

[Bisho]

I wish I had the room and height, for any lift. It is such PITA without.

I have a Stratus 8k lb mid rise scissor lift. It takes up almost no space when down, and lifts 4ft. Worth every penny for me - working on a creeper lost its appeal a long time ago.

 

[2001LC]

I have a Stratus 8k lb mid rise scissor lift. It takes up almost no space when down, and lifts 4ft. Worth every penny for me - working on a creeper lost its appeal a long time ago.

I just don't have the room, yet!

Issue too with many lifts, for just general service. Is blocking some points, I need to get to. Ideal lift would have 4 small point of lift, come up out of floor up to ~6 1/2 ft. Those being at jack-stand positions fame points. They then pull back into floor flush hidden away.

There are some advantage working of jack-stands. I don't have to be on a feet all day.

______________________________________

But for this job a scissor jack will not work. Wheels must be on ground, or a ramp as pictured above.

It's best to have vehicle level, with weight on all wheel in a neutral stance normal empty (unloaded), full tank of gas. Just like when adjusting T-bars. The reason for this is same reasoning behind adding spacer to bushing. We do not want rubber of any bushing loaded, while vehicle in neutral stance driving on flat ground.

 

[Bisho]

I just don't have the room, yet!

Issue too with many lifts, for just general service. Is blocking some points, I need to get to. Ideal lift would have 4 small point of lift, come up out of floor up to ~6 1/2 ft. Those being at jack-stand positions fame points. They then pull back into floor flush hidden away.

There are some advantage working of jack-stands. I don't have to be on a feet all day.

______________________________________

But for this job a scissor jack will not work. Wheels must be on ground, or a ramp as pictured above.

It's best to have vehicle level, with weight on all wheel in a neutral stance normal empty (unloaded), full tank of gas. Just like when adjusting T-bars. The reason for this is same reasoning behind adding spacer to bushing. We do not want rubber of any bushing loaded, while vehicle in neutral stance driving on flat ground.

When I have the truck 4’ up, I spend all the time underneath on a wheeled stool, so no sore feet! I won’t claim the scissor lift is perfect, but it is good for 99% of the things you want a lift for, it’s mobile, and in my shop pillars would really be in the way all the time.

For tightening the bushings, I measured the hub to fender height with the truck on the ground, then once on the lift, I used a floor jack with a length of 4x4 to raise the LCA to “loaded” height. Then I could get under there comfortably with a torque wrench and tighten everything up.

 

[abuck99]

When I have the truck 4’ up, I spend all the time underneath on a wheeled stool, so no sore feet! I won’t claim the scissor lift is perfect, but it is good for 99% of the things you want a lift for, it’s mobile, and in my shop pillars would really be in the way all the time.

For tightening the bushings, I measured the hub to fender height with the truck on the ground, then once on the lift, I used a floor jack with a length of 4x4 to raise the LCA to “loaded” height. Then I could get under there comfortably with a torque wrench and tighten everything up.

Sounds precarious , but if it works

 

[Slickspawn]

Hi all, as another option for a push tool, I used this, available easily from Home Depot:

Socket, OD measures right at 46.99mm, so a perfect fit! I used a grinder to flatten the end so it wouldn't slip off the press-side of bushing after trying without grinding the end flat and the push socket slipping off and side-loading 2x, others here had mentioned the grind-it-flat method.. Flattening the socket end helped and pushed the bushing out in 1 go after that: Husky 1/2 - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-2-Drive-12-Point-Deep-Metric-Socket-36mm-H2D12P36MM/305713162

1/2" threaded rod: Everbilt 1/2 in. x 13 tpi x 12 in. Stainless Steel Threaded Rod 802687 - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-x-13-tpi-x-12-in-Stainless-Steel-Threaded-Rod-802687/204274021

1/2" coupling nuts: Everbilt 1/2 in.-13 tpi Zinc Rod Coupling Nuts 822301 - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-13-tpi-Zinc-Rod-Coupling-Nuts-822301/204337404

And various 1/2" and 3/4" washers.

I also greased the threaded rod and the washers for ease of turning.

The coupling nuts really are key, lots of threads engaged.

Ideally I would have used a 5/8" or 3/4" threaded rod, but the socket was a 1/2" drive and if it didn't work I was going to drill out the 1/2" drive to accommodate a 5/8" or 3/4" all thread. I'm not sure the bushing could fit a 3/4" all thread though (thinking out loud, might be 1.05mm too large)

I still have the passenger side LCA, UCA, FDS to do and will take a picture, maybe even a video of it working. I'm always in such a rush I never do the proper 2001LC method and document, and I always regret not taking pics or vids b/c I do enjoy that part of the repair.

 

[2001LC]

Hi all, as another option for a push tool, I used this, available easily from Home Depot:

Socket, OD measures right at 46.99mm, so a perfect fit! I used a grinder to flatten the end so it wouldn't slip off the press-side of bushing after trying without grinding the end flat and the push socket slipping off and side-loading 2x, others here had mentioned the grind-it-flat method.. Flattening the socket end helped and pushed the bushing out in 1 go after that: Husky 1/2 - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-2-Drive-12-Point-Deep-Metric-Socket-36mm-H2D12P36MM/305713162

1/2" threaded rod: Everbilt 1/2 in. x 13 tpi x 12 in. Stainless Steel Threaded Rod 802687 - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-x-13-tpi-x-12-in-Stainless-Steel-Threaded-Rod-802687/204274021

1/2" coupling nuts: Everbilt 1/2 in.-13 tpi Zinc Rod Coupling Nuts 822301 - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-13-tpi-Zinc-Rod-Coupling-Nuts-822301/204337404

And various 1/2" and 3/4" washers.

I also greased the threaded rod and the washers for ease of turning.

The coupling nuts really are key, lots of threads engaged.

Ideally I would have used a 5/8" or 3/4" threaded rod, but the socket was a 1/2" drive and if it didn't work I was going to drill out the 1/2" drive to accommodate a 5/8" or 3/4" all thread. I'm not sure the bushing could fit a 3/4" all thread though (thinking out loud, might be 1.05mm too large)

I still have the passenger side LCA, UCA, FDS to do and will take a picture, maybe even a video of it working. I'm always in such a rush I never do the proper 2001LC method and document, and I always regret not taking pics or vids b/c I do enjoy that part of the repair.

3/4" rod will not fit bushing, unless cut center of bushing out. Which is PITA, taking up more time and tools

Using heat as @flintknapper outline, works well if you've a tough one (frozen in).

Also use caution, to not use side of grinding stone to grind socket. Unless stone designed for side work. Otherwise they can explode.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Good deal. That finishing torque touch I had to pay to get it done on one of these machines. It wasn't cheap since it's not part of a routine alignment.

View attachment 3017867

That’s what I did. Although they didn’t charge me extra? I was able to get the LCA bolts to like 120lbf and when I took it to the shop I had them bump the torque up to 170.

I put matchmarks on the bolts and they definitely tightened them. And none of the nuts/bolts have moved since.

 

[Slickspawn]

3/4" rod will not fit bushing, unless cut center of bushing out. Which is PITA, taking up more time and tools

Using heat as @flintknapper outline, works well if you've a tough one (frozen in).

Also use caution, to not use side of grinding stone to grind socket. Unless stone designed for side work. Otherwise they can explode.

Thanks for the info on the 3/4" all-thread, I did not want to cut the bushing rubber out so the push tool stayed as centered as possible.

And yes always a no-no using the side of a grinding stone, dangerous and not worth it even if being "careful"...I like my eyesight and use of my arms and fingers.

 

[flintknapper]

Thanks for the info. And yes always a no-no using the side of a grinding stone, dangerous and not worth it even if being "careful"...i like my eyesight and use of my arms and fingers.

Yep.

Having had all three now for 68 yrs....I have grown kind of used to them. Intend on keeping them a bit longer. Make good decisions folks !

 

[2001LC]

I don't recall if this every mentioned in this thread.

We also want to load the shocks & stabilizer link, before torquing in their lower bolts.

 

[FlammableFishie]

So to be clear, everything needs to be loaded before final torqueing? Just finished replacing the No 2 bushings and LBJs this weekend, but everything was torqued while it was still on jacks.

Also, is there any kind of trick to getting the bushings in the control arms out? I tried removing some bushings out of aftermarket control arms by making a cut in the outer shell and chiseling the lip but it seemed almost like they were welded into the control arm. Eventually gave up, put some old OEM control arms back in with their likely original 22yo bushings. I have some SuperPro poly bushings I would like to get in there when I get the will to tackle the project again.

 

[2001LC]

So to be clear, everything needs to be loaded before final torqueing? Just finished replacing the No 2 bushings and LBJs this weekend, but everything was torqued while it was still on jacks.

Also, is there any kind of trick to getting the bushings in the control arms out? I tried removing some bushings out of aftermarket control arms by making a cut in the outer shell and chiseling the lip but it seemed almost like they were welded into the control arm. Eventually gave up, put some old OEM control arms back in with their likely original 22yo bushings. I have some SuperPro poly bushings I would like to get in there when I get the will to tackle the project again.

Understand why load, should help.

Having vehicle in neutral position on the ground (loading), is important prior to torquing down all bushing on/attached to control arms. i.e. lower control arm bushing #1 & #2, lower shock bolt and lower stabilizer link bolt. Otherwise, when it's nut/bolt torque down locking it's metal center core bushing in place. You then load vehicle (place all four tire on ground). It put a twist (load) on rubber of bushing. Because the rubber is fused to the center and outer metal core/housing, of the these bushing. All the rubber cores will prematurely wear out, since they'll have pressure on them needlessly just sitting on the ground. They will over-load (twist rubber) as suspension flexes, at one point and under-load at another. They may also not be fully seated, to where that neutral stance places them, in their most relaxed/supported point of retaining hole. Which could cause the center metal bushing to slip.

I've just been replacing LCA. But I'd use a press. Cutting out, sure, go for it. Just more time consuming.

 

[AlpineAccess]

So to be clear, everything needs to be loaded before final torqueing? Just finished replacing the No 2 bushings and LBJs this weekend, but everything was torqued while it was still on jacks.

Also, is there any kind of trick to getting the bushings in the control arms out? I tried removing some bushings out of aftermarket control arms by making a cut in the outer shell and chiseling the lip but it seemed almost like they were welded into the control arm. Eventually gave up, put some old OEM control arms back in with their likely original 22yo bushings. I have some SuperPro poly bushings I would like to get in there when I get the will to tackle the project again.

I pressed out/in my LCA bushings, it wasn't bad. The OEM arms are really well constructed and using even a ball joint C clamp style press they came out. If you struggle, a technique that has worked well for me is to make a relief cut and then saturate that cut with penetrating oil for a day or so - it will soak in and the press will make quick work of things. If you have aftermarket LCA's I'm not sure I would put the effort into rehabbing them.

 

[mhidpa]

Another option that I decided to use for my tool was ACME threaded rod from Mcmaster Carr 98935A718 and a pair of ACME nuts. ACME threads are great at transferring power and hard to strip.

 

[FlammableFishie]

using even a ball joint C clamp style press they came out

Did you just use a receiving cup on the flanged side of the bushing, only bracing against the arm? I didn't try but it seems like there might be trouble since only ~1/4 of the cup would be braced against anything. Might give it another shot if I don't have to damage the arm beyond the point of reinstall, since these are my last 2 arms and I'm not trying to buy another set of OEMs.

If you have aftermarket LCA's I'm not sure I would put the effort into rehabbing them.

In hindsight, I wouldn't either. Not recommended. Part of the arm near the ball joint hole was entirely detached and clicking around in both arms. ~$80 for the pair. Trash.