Remove lower control arm on-frame No. 2 Bushing: dimensions and parts to do it are attached (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ccasey
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As promised my Home Depot socket with the opening ground flat to prevent slipping off the bushing works great again.
Socket Link
And prepped for new bushing after wire wheel and some grease brushed on the surface for many reasons:
Socket Link
And prepped for new bushing after wire wheel and some grease brushed on the surface for many reasons:
Last edited:
hoser
SILVER Star
Given today's favorable Yen to USD exchange rate, I feel the need to buy some tools from Japan! Maybe an entire Land Cruiser!
Did mine today, and used a 1-5/16" socket from NAPA, and a MAP gas torch. Worked like a charm. The driver side gave me a nice pop, and the pass side just squirted out.
Sharing my experience as well.
Tools:
• 8-inch 5/8 bolt course thread (from Home Depot)
• Ball Joint puller tool rented from Oreillys (only used the cup but not the C-clamp)
• 5/8 and 3/4 galvanized washers
• 3/4 drive 1 5/16” socket (from Advanced Auto Parts)
• 1/2 drive breaker bar
• Torch
Let the games begin:
Took flint’s suggestion:
Almost out, but the 5/8 bolt snapped! I’m glad I got a spare, so on it again.
Finally got the stubborn frame bushing out and this what I saw inside the bore
Took everyone’s suggestion to clean up the bore using a wire brush (power tool):
Like what everyone said before me, the install was 3x easier than the removal. Voila!
Next was to remove the bushing on the LCA itself. I used the Toyota bottle jack to push it out, heated the outside bore and it popped right out.
I’m curious what this black residue is, paint? Adhesive? Loctite?
Tools:
• 8-inch 5/8 bolt course thread (from Home Depot)
• Ball Joint puller tool rented from Oreillys (only used the cup but not the C-clamp)
• 5/8 and 3/4 galvanized washers
• 3/4 drive 1 5/16” socket (from Advanced Auto Parts)
• 1/2 drive breaker bar
• Torch
Let the games begin:
Took flint’s suggestion:
Almost out, but the 5/8 bolt snapped! I’m glad I got a spare, so on it again.
Finally got the stubborn frame bushing out and this what I saw inside the bore
Took everyone’s suggestion to clean up the bore using a wire brush (power tool):
Like what everyone said before me, the install was 3x easier than the removal. Voila!
Next was to remove the bushing on the LCA itself. I used the Toyota bottle jack to push it out, heated the outside bore and it popped right out.
I’m curious what this black residue is, paint? Adhesive? Loctite?
Last edited:
2001LC
SILVER Star
Just I little update.
Over the years, I've done more than my share of LCA and #2 bushings. I found @flintknapper suggestion of use a torch and adding just a bit of heat, works well.
The exception to this was, the one I had a drift press tool made out of a socket for. I had saved the LCAs from that and many others, I had replace with new OEM LCA over the years. Eventually I gather all old used LCA, to restore. Some I found damaged, bent or too rusty and tossed. The others I restored.
I remove the #1 bushing in each, before derusting in my tanks. I use my HF 20 ton press, with my custom drift tool, to press out the #1 bushing from each. Adding heat to any bushing that were difficult, work well.
Until the LCA's I had so much issue with. The 05LC, I had the bushing drift made for. Those bushing were so frozen in LCA, heat made little apparent difference. I had to leave the bushing under as much pressure, as I could with the press, for hours. Coming back every hour or so, and pump pressure back up and add a touch of heat and P. oil again and again. Finally they poop, with a loud bang. The bushing drift tool held up great. But, my pressure table didn't. it was bent on those badass frozen in ones of the 05LC. Dank, those were beastly!
Over the years, I've done more than my share of LCA and #2 bushings. I found @flintknapper suggestion of use a torch and adding just a bit of heat, works well.
The exception to this was, the one I had a drift press tool made out of a socket for. I had saved the LCAs from that and many others, I had replace with new OEM LCA over the years. Eventually I gather all old used LCA, to restore. Some I found damaged, bent or too rusty and tossed. The others I restored.
I remove the #1 bushing in each, before derusting in my tanks. I use my HF 20 ton press, with my custom drift tool, to press out the #1 bushing from each. Adding heat to any bushing that were difficult, work well.
Until the LCA's I had so much issue with. The 05LC, I had the bushing drift made for. Those bushing were so frozen in LCA, heat made little apparent difference. I had to leave the bushing under as much pressure, as I could with the press, for hours. Coming back every hour or so, and pump pressure back up and add a touch of heat and P. oil again and again. Finally they poop, with a loud bang. The bushing drift tool held up great. But, my pressure table didn't. it was bent on those badass frozen in ones of the 05LC. Dank, those were beastly!
Just I little update.
Over the years, I've done more than my share of LCA and #2 bushings. I found @flintknapper suggestion of use a torch and adding just a bit of heat, works well.
The exception to this was, the one I had a drift press tool made out of a socket for. I had saved the LCAs from that and many others, I had replace with new OEM LCA over the years. Eventually I gather all old used LCA, to restore. Some I found damaged, bent or too rusty and tossed. The others I restored.
I remove the #1 bushing in each, before derusting in my tanks. I use my HF 20 ton press, with my custom drift tool, to press out the #1 bushing from each. Adding heat to any bushing that were difficult, work well.
One thing is for certain: You never give up and always find a 'way' in the end. I admire that.
Well just found this thread after a very frustrating 4 hours of lca nonsense. I ended with some stacked and welded fat washers (from old top shock mount) as my press tool paired with a ball joint c-clamp and that didn't work. My truck had a very rusty lca and the main bolt was rust-welded in the bushing so bad it required many cutoff wheels to remove.
I think I'll try the method of burning out the rubber and notching with a sawzaw since I'm not confident that even the perfect press tool would work for me.
I think I'll try the method of burning out the rubber and notching with a sawzaw since I'm not confident that even the perfect press tool would work for me.
That doesn't look like fun.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Some of these are, a bear. Looks like you got a grizzly bear.
Just did my passenger side today, knew it wasn’t going to be great so went straight for cutting it out.
I used a 1.5” Milwaukee bimetal hole saw to get the rubber out. These are deep enough to go full through the bushing. Stinks as it does it, but not as bad as burning it out. Was able to get a sawzall in there to notch the entire length, and then used a chisel to peel away from the frame. It wasn’t fun, but it came out. Remember - the bushing is tapered, so push towards the front of the vehicle and you only need to get about 1/3 to 1/2 way through before it is fully loose. Practice on the LCA before you go to the frame.
I used a 1.5” Milwaukee bimetal hole saw to get the rubber out. These are deep enough to go full through the bushing. Stinks as it does it, but not as bad as burning it out. Was able to get a sawzall in there to notch the entire length, and then used a chisel to peel away from the frame. It wasn’t fun, but it came out. Remember - the bushing is tapered, so push towards the front of the vehicle and you only need to get about 1/3 to 1/2 way through before it is fully loose. Practice on the LCA before you go to the frame.
Nice write-up and pictures! Gonna be trying this route tomorrow
I would try heating up the frame first with a little MAPP gas cylinder (hotter than butane!) and try pushing it out with the threaded rod. Lots have had success that way. Keeps the damage potential low!
Drilling out the old bushing and taking a sawzall to notch it worked great. Got a wire wheel that fit perfect to clean it up before tossing the new ones in. This job kicked my ass but very rewarding when it finally started backing out.
Passengers side gave much less trouble. All new bushings and new shocks all around feels amazing, dare I say it's driving like new.
Passengers side gave much less trouble. All new bushings and new shocks all around feels amazing, dare I say it's driving like new.
After having finished this job last weekend, it is like driving a brand new vehicle. I only had my passenger side control arm remaining for bushings and LBJ replacement, and did the sway bar endlinks at the same time. Drives like a new vehicle, didn’t know how off it was before getting the job done. Highly recommended refresh.
