Reducing suspension lift to 2 inch to attempt to meet NSW legalities (1 Viewer)

[sunrk]

As it seems I'll need to reduce the lift on my 80 from 3 inch to 2 inch to address alleged non-compliance with the draconian vehicle mod rules here in the fine police state of NSW I'm thinking about what I'll need - lower springs, probably replacement radius arms, and maybe shocks as well.

current config is 3 inch lift with Lovells springs, Buds customs arms (for 4 inch lift so I get about 4.5 deg of caster), Icon 1.0 shocks.

I've already got adjustable panhards (EFS ones) and Superior Eng extended braided brake lines.

The springs I have now are Lovells but I don't recall which ones. Their catalog has different p/n's for raised springs for up to 7/91 build then it changes for 8/91 up. Might go for King or Dobinsons springs this time around. I don't know how spring manufacturers 'measure' the lift their springs are made for.

I like the Buds arms, so I'd just get a set configured for 3 inch lift (to maintain the bigger caster setting).

Don't know if the Icon 1.0 shocks are ok for a 2 inch lift setup. Mine have been on the vehicle for about 6 years and not given any problems.

 

[Comet]

The Dobinson stock height netted higher than expected height in my ‘97 a few tears ago.

 

[sunrk]

Is there a consensus on how to work out the weight (over stock) that is being carried on the front and on the rear? Seems I need to estimate that to narrow the selection.

And there seem to be linear vs progressive rate springs. I've never had anything but standard (linear rate I think) springs in the 80.

 

[-Spike-]

Is there a consensus on how to work out the weight (over stock) that is being carried on the front and on the rear? Seems I need to estimate that to narrow the selection.

And there seem to be linear vs progressive rate springs. I've never had anything but standard (linear rate I think) springs in the 80.

At least in the US, most truck stops have scales that will give you the weight on each axle. Or make a friend at a quarry, city dump, etc. with a scale, put one axle on the scale and get the weight that way.

 

[Haggis]

Wow, what a PITA. Much like the smog/emissions requirements we have to deal with in some of our USA Nazi states.

 

[sunrk]

A few yrs ago I did put the 80 on a weighbridge. At the time it weighed 2.64 tonnes (legal max GVM for an 80 is 2.96 tonnes). I still have the printout somewhere. I think it was 1.2 ish tonnes on the front and 1.4 ish on the rear.

I've reduced the weight in the rear since then. But might be time to re-visit.

What that won't tell me though is what the factory weight spec over each axle is for the config of my 80 which has none of the fluff of a GX/GXL/VX but does have plenty of mods (done by original purchaser, owner before me, and me).

My 80 cannot legally tow more than 2.5 tonnes (so max legal towball down load is 250 kg) because it was made before 1996.

 

[mudgudgeon]

A few yrs ago I did put the 80 on a weighbridge. At the time it weighed 2.64 tonnes (legal max GVM for an 80 is 2.96 tonnes). I still have the printout somewhere. I think it was 1.2 ish tonnes on the front and 1.4 ish on the rear.

I've reduced the weight in the rear since then. But might be time to re-visit.

What that won't tell me though is what the factory weight spec over each axle is for the config of my 80 which has none of the fluff of a GX/GXL/VX but does have plenty of mods (done by original purchaser, owner before me, and me).

My 80 cannot legally tow more than 2.5 tonnes (so max legal towball down load is 250 kg) because it was made before 1996.

If you get front and rear axle weight, a good suspension shop should be able to help with his that compares to stock.

Did you get a defect notice on it as it is? Just wanting to avoid it in the future?

 

[mudgudgeon]

Wow, what a PITA. Much like the smog/emissions requirements we have to deal with in some of our USA Nazi states.

In NSW we have annual road worthy inspections.

Take your car to the wrong shop, they'll pick on anything possible from
Emmissions
Rust
Modifications
Do windscreen wipers and washers work
Headlight alignment
Wear and tear on seats, seat belts etc
Wheel bearings, tires, ball joints

There's a statutory brake force acceleration test that has to be done by law. It's supposed to be done by bringing the vehicle up to a minimum speed, then hit the brakes, and the machine reads how quickly the vehicle decelerates, and also reads how much force is applied to a pad that gets clipped onto the brake pedal.
Take it to a shifty shop, they do the brake force test by swinging the machine, then bringing it to a stop, squeezing the sensor pad while sitting at the desk

Once a shop has started an inspection, by law, you can't take it to another shop to try and bypass fixing any faults they pick on.

A few years ago, I took my heavily wheeled HZJ105 into a shop near work. My cruiser was rough externally, but mechanically in great shape.
The two mechanics rolled their eyes and started listing "problems" that would prevent them passing it.
I very quickly said "sorry guys, clearly I'm in the wrong shop" took my keys out of one guys hand and drove away.
The shop around the corner, the guy said " it's had a hard life mate". I said "yep, it gets loved in a very special way. Mechanically its spot on. . . " and I listed a bunch of PM I'd done in recent months.

He spent 5 minutes looking it over, did the brake test at the desk, and Bob's your uncle! GTG

 

[sunrk]

If you get front and rear axle weight, a good suspension shop should be able to help with his that compares to stock.

Did you get a defect notice on it as it is? Just wanting to avoid it in the future?

No defect. Fortunately. I can't find multi-thousand dollars at click of my fingers to buy new tyres. Just chunked up $1k to pay for rego/taxes/ctp for the 80.

Day before I had the interaction with the cop the vehicle was passed for it's annual inspection including the brake test, and the handbrake is functional now.

 

[SHREG]

Out of my 7 cars, I "think" i have one that would pass inspection.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Out of my 7 cars, I "think" i have one that would pass inspection.

I promise none of mine would even be close

 

[sunrk]

My 80 is my DD (shared with my car that's currently been off the road for half a yr), so it gets used a lot for my normal travel to/from work. But in the 11 years I've been back in NSW I've never been chatted before.

 

[Broski]

In NSW we have annual road worthy inspections.

Take your car to the wrong shop, they'll pick on anything possible from
Emmissions
Rust
Modifications
Do windscreen wipers and washers work
Headlight alignment
Wear and tear on seats, seat belts etc
Wheel bearings, tires, ball joints

There's a statutory brake force acceleration test that has to be done by law. It's supposed to be done by bringing the vehicle up to a minimum speed, then hit the brakes, and the machine reads how quickly the vehicle decelerates, and also reads how much force is applied to a pad that gets clipped onto the brake pedal.
Take it to a shifty shop, they do the brake force test by swinging the machine, then bringing it to a stop, squeezing the sensor pad while sitting at the desk

Once a shop has started an inspection, by law, you can't take it to another shop to try and bypass fixing any faults they pick on.

A few years ago, I took my heavily wheeled HZJ105 into a shop near work. My cruiser was rough externally, but mechanically in great shape.
The two mechanics rolled their eyes and started listing "problems" that would prevent them passing it.
I very quickly said "sorry guys, clearly I'm in the wrong shop" took my keys out of one guys hand and drove away.
The shop around the corner, the guy said " it's had a hard life mate". I said "yep, it gets loved in a very special way. Mechanically its spot on. . . " and I listed a bunch of PM I'd done in recent months.

He spent 5 minutes looking it over, did the brake test at the desk, and Bob's your uncle! GTG

It's no different hear you need to go to the right shop !!