Rediscovering an '87 FJ60 (8 Viewers)

Joined
Jun 28, 2020
Messages
134
Location
Bend, OR
One of the main projects I wanted to tackle while the dizzy was being recurved was replacing my non-working OEM radio with something more functional. All I need is something that gets NPR and works with Bluetooth. I'm not interested though in using an FM modulator... Technology has come way too far to regress so hard. I debated for a long time on going with one of the "classic car" styled radios for restorations or the continental radio which would fit pretty well with the 80's aesthetic. In the end, I went with a normal single DIN with a built-in amp. I got a Sony b/c you know, they're Japanese and all that. But mainly, I got the same radio that @coultl used and designed his 3D printed mounting bracket around.

As mentioned, this radio has a built-in amp, which is great because I won't need to add a separate one in the future. It's bad though because it ended up creating yet another rabbit hole of money and work for me. You see, the built-in amp needs a dedicated power wire run from the battery. But, my battery terminals were all kinds of messed up so that means new terminals. New terminals mean I might as well go ahead and upgrade all my positive and ground wires. And of course, a radio pumping out 50w/channel RMS is gonna fry the 30 year old stock speakers REAL quick, so I gotta get new speakers.

So, before I can wire the radio, I gotta wire the truck... I'll start by saying anyone considering upgrading their battery cables should stop reading and buy the @Forerunner battery cables. It would have been cheaper and a TON easier than making my own. But, I like making battery cables for some reason and have the needed tool to do it (hydraulic crimper). And when it comes to 12v DC power systems, I'm a huge fan of marine-grade hardware.

So I bought a bunch of marine wire, terminals, and heat shrink from Ancor and a few fuse blocks and fuses from Blue Sea Marine. Here's what you get after spending money over-engineering battery cables:

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I'll list the part numbers and lengths and everything below, but keep in mind a lot of this is specific to how I set up my system. For wire size, I opted to go with 1 AWG wire for the starter, body ground, starter ground, and main ground running under the A/C compressor to the engine mount. I used 4 AWG for the ground from the engine block to the body. This is way overkill, but I figured why not.. I think the 4 AWG Mr. T used is totally fine. After all, the ampacity of Ancor 4 AWG wire is like 160 amps or something like that.

I also opted to fuse the power wire to the starter. It's crazy to me that Toyota (or any automaker) would run a 4 AWG unfused wire through an engine compartment directly to a battery. I used one of Blue Sea's terminal fuse blocks with a big fuse here. I couldn't find clear info on how much current the starter draws, but think I read somewhere it's like 80 amps. I also have the fusable link on this terminal, so I figured 125 amps would be plenty. And, it was... Until I forgot to put the truck in neutral when I started it. That blew the fuse immediately. I've got it fixed temporarily now while I wait on a new 175 amp fuse in the mail.

I also added a terminal fuse block for blade fuses which I'll run the power wire (10 AWG) to the radio from. This is also where I connected the headlight relays in my post above.

One tip for anyone making their own cables... Measure the diameter of the bolts you need cable lugs for and do not go off of the lugs/terminals from the old wires. I ordered all my Ancor tinned copper lugs ($$$) based on the diameter of the old wire terminals only to find out they were almost all oversized. I ended up replacing a lot of them with 5/16" (I'd ordered 3/8").

I use a hack saw to cut through heavy cables and have always felt that works fine. When crimping lugs on heavy cable, be sure to use the right tool for the job. Yes, that means you gotta spend $50 on ebay for the hydraulic crimper. The hammer type just dont work, and soldering doesnt compare. A properly crimped termination fuses the lug and wire..

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In the end, I ended up spending ~$180 and ended up with some nice new cables and marine-grade battery terminals. With tinned wire, crimped lugs, and adhesive lined heat-shrink these things will last a long time. They could probably stay submerged in a bilge for 20 years and be fine, so they'll work well enough in a cruiser.

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Here's the battery, terminals, and wires all finally installed. Of course, if you're putting all this effort into new wiring, there is no way you can deny a stainless tray to go along with it.. So, yeah, ordered and installed one of those as well.

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Joined
Jun 28, 2020
Messages
134
Location
Bend, OR
The other side of fixing up the wiring is of course ensuring proper grounds. Overall, I'm surprised that Toyota didn't engineer the ground locations on this truck better. Every ground location I've seen is painted over, with the only electrical path going from the wire terminal through the bolt head and then through the thread surface itself. I'm not sure how common this is, but the surface under the wire terminal should be bare metal. Further, on a 30+ year old truck, every ground location I've come across had both a corroded/rusty bolt head and threads, so what minimal surface area existed was now in especially bad shape. I would not be surprised if many/most of the electrical gremlins we experience are simply the result of bad grounds.

I cleaned these up as much as I could by sanding the surface bare and wire brushing internal threads with a barrel brush for a 9MM.

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Finally, I got the receiver installed. I ran the power wire through the firewall grommet under the windshield washer reservoir and the ground wire was connected to a factory ground location on the passenger side of the dash (also cleaned up).

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And as mentioned, I also replaced the door speakers with Polk DB 522s using speaker rings from @TheNeek which worked perfectly. The difference between old and new is pretty substantial, but I must say, I'm impressed Toyota went the extra mile to put a rubber shield on the top of the speaker to prevent water and debris from getting in there. I haven't seen this in a factory speaker before

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And of course, being me, I just couldn't let 33 year old wire carry a 50w RMS signal so I of course replace all the speaker wire as well. This meant building new harnesses to go in the doors with weatherpack connectors in the factory locations just in case I ever need to take the doors off. Again, I used Ancor 14 AWG duplex wire here.

When I pulled the factory wires out I thought the grommets + electrical tape between the door and body must have been some janky PO wiring everyone finds. I was pretty shocked to learn that's Toyota's method of sealing the wiring loom. In the future, I'd like to add better wire harness boots similar to @NCFJ's post here

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And then, finally, the wiring (for this part of the truck) was done.

PartQuantityPart #Notes
Ancor 1 AWG Wire - Red6'VariesBatt > Starter
Ancor 1 AWG Wire - Black5'VariesStarter > Ground, Batt > Body Ground, Batt > Engine Ground
Ancor 4 AWG Wire - Black2'VariesEngine > Body Ground
Ancor 10 AWG Wire - Red8'VariesFor radio power
Ancor 10 AWG Wire - Black4'VariesFor radio ground
Ancor 14 AWG Duplex wire15'Varies
Ancor 1 AWG lugs x 5/16" 5252275Count what you need
Ancor 1 AWG Lugs x 1/2"1252277
Ancor 4 AWG Lugs x 3/8"1252256
Ancor 4 AWG Lugs x 5/16"1252255
Ancor Adhesive lined heat shrink tubing - 3/4"20"306124
Ancor battery terminals1260322Includes pos & neg
Blue Sea terminal fuse block15191
Blue Sea 175 amp fuse15186
Ancor lug/terminal boot2260381To cover/protect starter terminal
Speaker adapter rings2N/Afrom @TheNeek
Radio installation bracket1N/APrinted using files designed and provided by @coultl
Stainless battery tray1129from stainlesstrays.com
Ancor Adhesive lined heat shrink crimp connectors10309125For connecting the radio harness to factory and speaker wiring
Ancor Adhesive lined heat shrink step down connectors2320103These step the 10 awg power and ground wire down to the wiring harness size
Factory wiring harness straps15A14284from clipsandfasteners.com
 
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
369
Location
Mill Creek, WA
Did you find the blue cable routing snap part numbers somewhere for the inner fender or did you reuse the ones you had?

This is top notch. Really enjoy the transformation of each subsystem in each post.
 
Joined
Jun 28, 2020
Messages
134
Location
Bend, OR
Did you find the blue cable routing snap part numbers somewhere for the inner fender or did you reuse the ones you had?

This is top notch. Really enjoy the transformation of each subsystem in each post.

Yep, those are found here. Part Number A14284 "Honda and Toyota Cable Strap 110mm Length" from clipsandfastners.com They seem identical to the factory ones I replaced. I don't believe OEM ones exist anymore.
 
Joined
Jun 28, 2020
Messages
134
Location
Bend, OR
The final project while I waited on my dizzy was to rebuild my carb. Not a whole lot to write about here, Just watch PinHead0001's videos on youtube and keep the 2F manual open. Honestly, you really only need the manual to verify tolerances when putting things back together, the videos are 95% of what you need. Do be sure to take pictures EVERY time you remove a screw, clip, or whatever to aid in reassembly.

I used a Keyster kit supplied by CruiserTeq and an OEM Plunger. I did soak everything in Chem Dip which worked great and painted the cast iron throttle body to prevent future rust. I really wanted to send all the zinc-plated parts off to be replated but resisted the urge when I realized how much wouldn't be able to be included (like the vacuum modulators). Instead, I just soaked them and rubbed any corrosion off with a scotchbrite.

I did of course succumb to the urge to buy a new insulator and vacuum "filter". I also replaced the air cleaner mounting stud which was bent on my carb.

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The last piece of the puzzle was cleaning up my vacuum lines and getting my VSV for dizzy vent mounted somewhere. @mattressking had a great solution where he found a perfect bracket on an '80s tercel, but unfortunately, we don't have any pick n' pulls around. I opted to make one myself using the existing VCV bracket from my air cleaner and some 16 GA steel.

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PartQuantityPart #Notes
Carb plunger12135361020
Replacement air cleaner stud for carb19011606018
Carb rebuild kit1CARB61171from Cruiser Teq
Carb insulator12191261035
VCV19092503192I didn't buy new VCVs but this is the part number if you want to
VCV bracket bolt19165140814
"Gas filter" for intake19091711027
 
Joined
Jun 28, 2020
Messages
134
Location
Bend, OR
And finally, after waiting a long time (2 months), @FJ40Jim notified me that my dizzy was ready. Though it was a lot longer than I'd hoped to wait, it ended up being a pretty perfect amount of time to accomplish the work described above.

When I sent it off, I really wasn't sure what to expect other than it being recurved. I didn't know if it would be cleaned, rebuilt, or what. For reference here are before and after pics.. These are literally moment before I put it into the box to ship off. I didn't bother doing any cleaning or anything as I figured I'd refresh as needed depending on what Jim did to it.

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And here it is fresh out of the box from Jim:

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Needless to say, I was VERY pleased. It's clearly been totally disassembled, blasted, cleaned, and the vacuum advancer has been painted (yes, that's the same one). Another 100% satisfied customer here.
 
Joined
Jun 28, 2020
Messages
134
Location
Bend, OR
After doing all this work under the hood and getting everything all spiffed up, I just couldn't bring myself to reinstall that janky flying saucer of an air cleaner. That thing belongs on an Oldsmobile, not a Land Cruiser. So, after a bit of looking, I bought a little surprise from a guy Downunder.


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Yep, a Non-US 2F carb hat and air cleaner assembly. It arrived covered in grease and oil, with paint peeling, so I had it all blasted and powder coated. Also, the intake tube that came with it was literally falling apart and not usable, so I needed to source another. They've been long NLA and I couldn't find an OEM one anywhere. I tried all the usual outlets and even resulted to searching anything Toyota or aftermarket which might work as a replacement. Finally, I found an eBay listing for an air cleaner hose for an "FJ60 Carby" which looked identical and seemed to have similar dimensions. Though the seller wouldn't confirm the part number it was supposed to replace, I took a chance and ordered the part. It turned out great and fits pretty perfectly. I did trim the ends to allow it to fit a little better, but for anyone else looking for a replacement, this is a good option.

I cleaned up the cold air intake tube as best I could, though it will probably need a replacement not far down the road. I think though I can use one off of a US 62?

I was also very excited to see that the assembly I got was the cyclone version with the cyclone insert and detachable dust collector below (not pictured but also sourced new). This will be great as the amount of fine dust here in Bend in the summer is unbelievable. The seller though forgot to include the cyclone insert and had to mail it separately. In what I hope is classic Aussie fashion, it arrived in an empty beer carton for packaging.

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Soon on my list is fixing my A/C, so I'll need to figure out how to get my A/C hoses routed around the air cleaner. Perhaps I'll need to have some made, or I'll need to figure out if 62 hoses can be used here?


Parts used:

PartQuantityPart #Notes
Air cleaner bottom seal11784168010Same part is the top seal if you aren't using a cyclone insert
Air cleaner element11780168020
Carb hat mount bolts & air cleaner mount bolts59165140814
Cold air intake hose mounting bolt19165140612
Air cleaner dust bucket11770317010
Air intake hose clamps39611110800
Carb hat wing nut19017506003
Airbox wing nut19017508008
Carb hat to carb gasket11784861020
 

4runner2FJ60

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Joined
Sep 28, 2019
Messages
241
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virginia beach
Awesome thread! I am literally doing the exact same thing as you. About to blast and refinish the non us air setup, patiently waiting on JimC for carb and dizzy. I think it will be soon, I mailed them new years eve with the idea it could be 3 months. I think I even bought the same head unit! I did not run a dedicated wire and have not had any issues yet.
 
Joined
Jun 28, 2020
Messages
134
Location
Bend, OR
Are you going to put a snorkel on there?

I'm not sure... Realistically, I doubt this thing is going through a lot of river crossings after I'm done with it. But, if I could score an OEM snorkel, that would probably be too hard to pass up and would look pretty rad.

Awesome thread! I am literally doing the exact same thing as you. About to blast and refinish the non us air setup, patiently waiting on JimC for carb and dizzy. I think it will be soon, I mailed them new years eve with the idea it could be 3 months. I think I even bought the same head unit! I did not run a dedicated wire and have not had any issues yet.

Thanks! Yeah, I sent my dizzy to him Jan 3, so not too far off from you. And yeah, I totally forgot to list the radio I bought which was a Sony DSX-GS80. I haven't had a chance to really use it but so far it seems good. One issue it seems to have though is that the glossy screen does seem to make it a total PITA to read anything when it's bright out.
 

4runner2FJ60

SILVER Star
Joined
Sep 28, 2019
Messages
241
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virginia beach
I installed the same exact head unit! It was end of summer, I cannot remember what circuit I pulled from but remember questioning that dedicated line. So far it has been fine and LOUD! Now I can hear something other than engine and tire noise! :cool: I haven't had an issue seeing the screen yet, I am sure you know, you can not only change the colors of the back light and lettering, but the brightness too. It does sound really good!
 
Joined
Aug 29, 2019
Messages
78
Location
KC
Man great thread and work done. Thank you so much for attaching all your part numbers and the quantity needed. Really nice write up and pics! Keep the info coming!

thank you again
 
Joined
Jan 1, 2021
Messages
9
Location
Denver
The intake manifold was looking pretty rough and I knew I was likely going to need to get this thing welded so I got it bead blasted clean first. After that, you can clearly see the crack.

View attachment 2603414

It’s interesting that it cracked because I tested the butterfly valve in the exhaust manifold and it was working fine. Anyways, I paid a welder to grind out the crack and weld it closed.

At this time I also replaced all the exhaust insulators holding up my exhaust pipe as only one was still functioning in any capacity. Replacing the middle insulator, on my back under the truck, is definitely the most difficult and frustrating thing I’ve done on this truck so far.

Here’s what all of mine looked like when I took them off:

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I got all new Toyota hardware and put everything back together. I drilled out the broken bolt and installed a heli-coil. The rings and springs in my exhaust manifold horns were in good shape, so I only ordered two of each. Each side got one set of new and one set of old and then I covered them all with high temp RTV at the suggestion of another member.

I also took the opportunity to clean up my valve cover and get it looking good.

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For the desmog, I installed Jim’s parts and ‘refurbished’ my valve rack to look all nice and new:

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I’m at 4,000’ so keeping HAC as well as EVAP and AC Idle up (for when I fix the AC system). While it looks a million times better than it did, I do still need to keep a fair amount of tubes running around.


Also, FYI for anyone keeping HAC: I spend a LONG time looking for the vacuum line T needed to connect the valve only to find out that it was built into the spaghetti monster. I found an OEM replacement so you get to spend the extra $$ and hassle over picking up a Dorman ‘T’ from your local Napa.


View attachment 2603419
Thank you for the tip on the HAC connection. Quick question, where does the larger, bottom vac line on the HAC connect to? Mine is just dangling!
Thanks!
 

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