4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
At least the chassis is off the frame. But I completely agree....this summer I had to weld something back together inside my work van near the roof edge. Suprised the whole truck didn't got up in smoke.
Builds Rediscovering an '87 FJ60 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter LazarusTaxa
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I'd email the pictures to a frame shop in your area.
I had my 1st gen Tacoma's frame repaired by Mikes frame and alignment, it was the spot by the passenger rear shock that always rusts out, he cut it out, welded in a new piece of steel then plated over the area too to make sure it was secure for 300$. the damage was similar to yours but you obviously have more, but I've never been worried about the quality of the repair or the integrity of my frame after, as long as its a reputable shop they'll tell you what's best.
I have to deal with the same rust on my cruiser, very curious to what you end up doing. Good luck!
I had my 1st gen Tacoma's frame repaired by Mikes frame and alignment, it was the spot by the passenger rear shock that always rusts out, he cut it out, welded in a new piece of steel then plated over the area too to make sure it was secure for 300$. the damage was similar to yours but you obviously have more, but I've never been worried about the quality of the repair or the integrity of my frame after, as long as its a reputable shop they'll tell you what's best.
I have to deal with the same rust on my cruiser, very curious to what you end up doing. Good luck!
LazarusTaxa
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #63
Thanks everyone for the input.. I'm leaning towards getting the 62 frame because it's A) a stronger frame and B) I can trust that the inside of the frame isn't rusty throughout.
BUT, I'm a bit worried about the implications of swapping in a different frame. I don't believe this one would come with any documentation except an invoice issued by the selling shop. My truck is currently titled and registered, but would I need a reconstructed title? can I even get that without having the frame title? Would I be screwed down the road if I tried to sell this thing? I'm def concerned dumping a ton of money into this truck and then ending up having it be unusable due to title issues.
I'll call the DMV first thing in the morning, but am hoping to pick the 62 frame up on Tuesday if I end up going that route so want to make the decision ASAP.
BUT, I'm a bit worried about the implications of swapping in a different frame. I don't believe this one would come with any documentation except an invoice issued by the selling shop. My truck is currently titled and registered, but would I need a reconstructed title? can I even get that without having the frame title? Would I be screwed down the road if I tried to sell this thing? I'm def concerned dumping a ton of money into this truck and then ending up having it be unusable due to title issues.
I'll call the DMV first thing in the morning, but am hoping to pick the 62 frame up on Tuesday if I end up going that route so want to make the decision ASAP.
cps432
SILVER Star
Your body mounts may not be the same from frame to frame. I know there were several iterations throughout the years but I’m not certain if the location of the body mounts changed. I do know that the size of the rubber pucks was not consistent throughout production.
LazarusTaxa
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #66
OK quick update.. After what was a SUPER hard decision, I'm going with fixing my frame. I checked with a few pro-restorers and they agreed my rust isn't too bad. This will help me avoid any possibly legal headaches and save me a day of driving over the mountains and back. For a week there I was literally changing my mind on which way to go every time I thought about it... Glad to have the decision behind me.
That means yesterday I got to start the process of removing my rusty c-channels. WOW, this is hands down the worst job I can think of. I'm not blessed with a huge air compressor and therefore don't have a pneumatic chisels that everyone recommends. It took me 3 hours yesterday to remove ONE of them... I don't even have any pictures or recommendations.. It was just three hours of frustrated hammering, grinding, and swearing.
I cannot even imagine doing this job with the body still on the truck. I would probably sell it and buy a new one before doing that.
That means yesterday I got to start the process of removing my rusty c-channels. WOW, this is hands down the worst job I can think of. I'm not blessed with a huge air compressor and therefore don't have a pneumatic chisels that everyone recommends. It took me 3 hours yesterday to remove ONE of them... I don't even have any pictures or recommendations.. It was just three hours of frustrated hammering, grinding, and swearing.
I cannot even imagine doing this job with the body still on the truck. I would probably sell it and buy a new one before doing that.
cps432
SILVER Star
You need an air compressor and air chisel. Defiantly if you’re doing the whole frame. I can’t think of a better reason to buy those tools than for frame restoration. It’s precisely what those tools are designed to do. I would also get map gas torch. It will apply heat where you want it faster than a propane torch.
LazarusTaxa
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #68
Oh I would if I had the room.. That and a blast cabinet would be amazing. I'd get them in a heartbeat, but my garage is already a Tetris game of organization
cps432
SILVER Star
You could probably find a place for a small pancake compressor. Seriously… even if you leave it in the cabin of the truck when you’re not using it, you need one for this project. I, myself, am a masochist but not THAT much!
LazarusTaxa
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #70
No way a pancake can power an air chisel.. I've got a small finish compressor and it can't even remotely run an impact hammer.
cps432
SILVER Star
My porter cable pancake compressor runs mine.
When it comes time for my frame [gives evil side eye to my truck parked outside the coffee shop] I was planning on running an air chisel off my Porter Cable pancake compressor. F*** it, ya know? Would a compressor with a huge gas motor, 100% duty cycle motor and giant tank be better? Yeah for sure, but use what ya got and get s*** done.
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77CruiserDog
GOLD Star
Okay, just finished reading all of this. Nice work!! The addition of part numbers is so helpful to future readers. Your attention to detail is just about at an OCD level, which is awesome if you want something you'll be proud of later down the road.
I agree with what others have said. Go buy a big compressor, use it for the job and sell it if you have to. There is nothing like wasting time and energy compensating for lack of proper tools. I have multiple examples of this in my past.
Also, go buy a good welder and keep it forever. It's the most useful tool I own and the money you spend on having someone repair your frame will be about the same as what a decent welder would cost. Get proficent at welding on some scrap and go after it. Frames are easy to weld, body panels are not. You've done way harder things than weld based on what I just read.
I like your idea of using an engine hoist as a lift for the body... I will be using this idea in the near future. Thanks so much! I've litterally thought about this for hours and your idea is the easiest and safest.
(edit) One last thing... Your comment about what are you getting yourself into and what kind of hole have you just dug... I felt the same when I did this last year to my FJ40 - "Scout". The first drive in Scout after my frame off relieved ALL of that stress. It's comforting knowing my frame is solid now and everything is neat and tidy and put back properly.
Cheers!!
I agree with what others have said. Go buy a big compressor, use it for the job and sell it if you have to. There is nothing like wasting time and energy compensating for lack of proper tools. I have multiple examples of this in my past.
Also, go buy a good welder and keep it forever. It's the most useful tool I own and the money you spend on having someone repair your frame will be about the same as what a decent welder would cost. Get proficent at welding on some scrap and go after it. Frames are easy to weld, body panels are not. You've done way harder things than weld based on what I just read.
I like your idea of using an engine hoist as a lift for the body... I will be using this idea in the near future. Thanks so much! I've litterally thought about this for hours and your idea is the easiest and safest.
(edit) One last thing... Your comment about what are you getting yourself into and what kind of hole have you just dug... I felt the same when I did this last year to my FJ40 - "Scout". The first drive in Scout after my frame off relieved ALL of that stress. It's comforting knowing my frame is solid now and everything is neat and tidy and put back properly.
Cheers!!
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LazarusTaxa
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #75
Man, if you guys think i'm crazy for not having a big compressor and an air chisel, it's really gonna blow your minds that I don't own an impact wrench 
I've so far done all this with a couple of ratchets and a breaker bar.
FYI, frame is being blasted now, then off to get repaired. I need to post an update or two.. I tore up my shoulder in DEC and had to take a couple of months off.
I've so far done all this with a couple of ratchets and a breaker bar.
FYI, frame is being blasted now, then off to get repaired. I need to post an update or two.. I tore up my shoulder in DEC and had to take a couple of months off.
I remember tearing up my shoulder using 1/2" drive breaker on the old spring hardware. You too?Man, if you guys think i'm crazy for not having a big compressor and an air chisel, it's really gonna blow your minds that I don't own an impact wrench
I've so far done all this with a couple of ratchets and a breaker bar.
FYI, frame is being blasted now, then off to get repaired. I need to post an update or two.. I tore up my shoulder in DEC and had to take a couple of months off.
LazarusTaxa
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #77
Nah, that's quite impressive though. You must have actually been wrenching really hard. I messed mine up mountain biking.
Dude!! The worst body damage I've seen is from mountain biking! Except that one guy who's 'shute didn't open base jumping. He was a trooper though.
LazarusTaxa
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #79
Ok as promised a quick update... Since the last real post I got the frame prepped for blasting, repair, and powder coating. I finally got all the rivets out of the C-channels and go them removed. I also pulled out the rear cross member and took off the rear-front spring hangers so that the welder could get in there and replace the rot.
Then I took it to get blasted and it's looking great. Here's a pic at the welders who is gonna replace the areas of rot, weld back on the spring hangers, and weld in a new rear crossmember I picked up.
On that note, I picked up a replacement crossmember.. I got it from TrailTailor (who no longer sells them), but looks like it came from CruiserWorld.eu. I don't have a pic of it at the moment, but it's a super nice piece. CNC Cut, bent, and then galvanized. EXCEPT it's too wide/tall to fit in the bumper. So, I'm gonna have to cut one of the rear edges off and weld it ~1/8" lower to get it to fit right. Disappointing, but still a good part.
Beyond the chassis, I've spent the last few weeks disassembling everything in preparation for powder coating and re-plating of all the hardware. On that note, if anyone ever needs info on any parts, bolts, etc. I probably have you covered:
And impressively, though the bottom of my truck was red with surface rust, after pulling apart the drivetrain, diffs, etc, everything was in pretty much perfect shape. My truck had 185K miles on it and none of the bearings or gears were near shot. There were a couple oil seals leaking and the input/output flange for the rear drivelines had minor grooving. All in all though, I'm very impressed.
As of now, I've got 99% of the stuff apart and have dropped a lot off to be powder coated. I'll ship out the hardware for plating as soon as I can verify I've got everything to include.
Then I took it to get blasted and it's looking great. Here's a pic at the welders who is gonna replace the areas of rot, weld back on the spring hangers, and weld in a new rear crossmember I picked up.
On that note, I picked up a replacement crossmember.. I got it from TrailTailor (who no longer sells them), but looks like it came from CruiserWorld.eu. I don't have a pic of it at the moment, but it's a super nice piece. CNC Cut, bent, and then galvanized. EXCEPT it's too wide/tall to fit in the bumper. So, I'm gonna have to cut one of the rear edges off and weld it ~1/8" lower to get it to fit right. Disappointing, but still a good part.
Beyond the chassis, I've spent the last few weeks disassembling everything in preparation for powder coating and re-plating of all the hardware. On that note, if anyone ever needs info on any parts, bolts, etc. I probably have you covered:
And impressively, though the bottom of my truck was red with surface rust, after pulling apart the drivetrain, diffs, etc, everything was in pretty much perfect shape. My truck had 185K miles on it and none of the bearings or gears were near shot. There were a couple oil seals leaking and the input/output flange for the rear drivelines had minor grooving. All in all though, I'm very impressed.
As of now, I've got 99% of the stuff apart and have dropped a lot off to be powder coated. I'll ship out the hardware for plating as soon as I can verify I've got everything to include.
LazarusTaxa
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #80
While I wait on plating and powder, my hope is to get the bottom side of the body prepped for paint.. It's overall in good shape with only a few patches of surface rust towards the back, above the gas tank. There is some minor rot in the front of one of the rear wheel wells, but nothing else.
I'd like to figure out how to strip the existing undercoating so that I can start with fresh primer. See my other thread on that here. I'd like to get it down to metal, prime it, apply some Lizard Skin product for sound deadening and to protect from rock chips, and then I'll cover everything with fluid film once it's all back together.
here's a pic of the worst of the surface rust. This is above the gas lines & cover in the rear:
and few more
I'd like to figure out how to strip the existing undercoating so that I can start with fresh primer. See my other thread on that here. I'd like to get it down to metal, prime it, apply some Lizard Skin product for sound deadening and to protect from rock chips, and then I'll cover everything with fluid film once it's all back together.
here's a pic of the worst of the surface rust. This is above the gas lines & cover in the rear:
and few more
