Builds Reconstruction after rollover - building The Champ 2. (4 Viewers)

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There nothing bolt on when mounting The Currie Antirock on a 80 !!
By "bolt-on" was speaking only about the lever arm - not the whole installation.

Yeah - I see from your install photo how close the arm is to the Panhard frame mount - very close indeed.
Definitely a factor to consider - change one thing...leads to other mods...so it goes.

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I didn't know until this discussion that @jcardona1 had gone all the way to Upper Control Arm A-Frame - to completely eliminate the panhard - Nice! The 4th one to do so as far as I know. panhard frame mount issues - gone!
So this hollow arm can be nearly 3/8 " wide and just as strong ? I don't think so
I'm really just suggesting to carefully consider what kind of "strength" is actually needed in this lever arm situation.
The top and bottom surfaces are where the primary strength is needed - in pure tension / compression.
And - the vertical bending force varies from maximum at the spline end, down to near zero at the link end - so it's reasonable to taper it.
The sides are mainly stabilizing the top and bottom - so they don't buckle.
A solid plate arm has a lot of metal in the middle that doesn't give much "strength" benefit.
Of course - there is some side force - due to the angulation of the axle as it articulates - but it's a secondary load factor.
- At full droop the side force is pulling inward.
- At full stuff the side force is pushing outward...so, again no frame clearance risk. - possibility of a crunch still makes me a bit nervous though.
If you have a better idea build it, mount it and show us !!
I'm not trying to just argue either - just poking deeper into the design - and all you guys that have posted photos of your installs - are appreciated. Those of us who may one day do this...learn from your examples and maybe refine/improve a little.
 
Today was a great day. I found fullness in my morning reading and a jaunt into the snow. The snow was warm and heavy but I made it up to the head lights. The new tires worked
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well, of course what new tires don’t. Went downtown to 8 psi.
 
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Keep an eye on the fender side of the battery bracket. If it concerns you, it may make contact with the hood as you have it.


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Keep an eye on the fender side of the battery bracket. If it concerns you, it may make contact with the hood as you have it.
good point. those terminals are a lot closer to the front of the hood compared to a regular battery. I would almost run something to protect it from arching with the hood. Those battery boxes move a lot and give during bouncing/wheeling.
 
good point. those terminals are a lot closer to the front of the hood compared to a regular battery. I would almost run something to protect it from arching with the hood. Those battery boxes move a lot and give during bouncing/wheeling.
Terminals will clear because there is a void above there, but a cover would be wise. The fender side has a hood rib right at the bracket location. Mine has dinged up the hood until I trimmed down the j-hook top side. Noticed Steve has an extra metal tab there that protrudes up, so wanted to bring it up.
 
A piece of 0.060" kydex - heated up with a hot air gun and pressed down / molded over stuff - with welding gloves - would work nicely.
 
Terminals will clear because there is a void above there, but a cover would be wise. The fender side has a hood rib right at the bracket location. Mine has dinged up the hood until I trimmed down the j-hook top side. Noticed Steve has an extra metal tab there that protrudes up, so wanted to bring it up.
I checked all that out. No interference issues. During my recent snow wheeling adventure I did some heavy bounding through dips, ruts, big pot holes and such. The battery stayed put. The battery box is brand new. Seems to be fiber glass reinforced plastic and is pretty strong.

I considered some sort of shielding for the terminals. That was a fleeting thought last week but now you all have me rethinking it. :hmm:
 
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I learned that Nitro’s are nut up to handling Chocolate Thunder.
 
It’s time to invest in a set of rear RCV’s to match the fronts. This one makes the second Nitro my 80 ate. This was on Chocolate Thunder at the Hammers.
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It’s time to invest in a set of rear RCV’s to match the fronts. This one makes the second Nitro my 80 ate. This was on Chocolate Thunder at the Hammers.
Wise investment ! :p
 
com on Steve... are you going to post anything else about the KOH?
I would enjoy a share from your perspective.
I can throw up some links for you.
Sorry to hear about the broken axle.
 

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