There's certainly no argument with real world experience - I did it and it works well...can't be trumped.
Any thoughts I have about tuning this - in the context of 80 Landcruiser...are about :
1) Having full articulation without over-twisting the bar beyond it's elastic limit. So it lasts.
- Some have overstressed the OEM bar.
- For a given length - a thicker bar will overstress at lower degrees of twist - and a thinner bar could twist further without overstress.
- And - For a given length - shorter arm length is stiffer, but can't travel as far - longer arm length - just the opposite.
- So - some tradeoffs and tuning aspects there.
2) Having a good balance of roll stiffness between front and back - for offroad, and for highway use. (probably two conflicting needs)
The OEM bar and this one both about 1" dia...well, a good enough practical starting point but...there are significant differences :
- The effective twisting length of this bar is longer. - making it less stiff.
- The OEM bar has springey bendable arms - that's part of it's overall stiffness.
- This bar has nominally non-bending stiff arms. (except for
@nukegoat 
)
- The OEM bar has some rubber bushing compliance - for small movements at least.
- This bar has non-compliant bushings - that makes it more "road racey" (maybe more annoying? hard to say)
- The math formula for sway bar stiffness is very sensitive for diameter, if i recall correctly.
- All those bends and arms makes the stiffness calculation pretty-much guesswork for the OEM arm - more simple and direct for this type.
As far as - circle track racing and rock crawling are like apples and oranges - well, not in my mind. - A sway bar is a sway bar, no matter if on a grocery getter or a road race car. Exactly the same concept and same basic goal - many applications. I'm happy to "culturally appropriate" whenever possible.