Thanks @baldilocks and @Broski for doing all the hard work so I can copy!
Builds Reconstruction after rollover - building The Champ 2. (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter baldilocks
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- #542
Me copy others too… at least as much as I have the courage to copy that is. Go hydro assist and be on the line you want to be on much more easily. I’m beginning to have withdrawals. Sand Hollow is presenting itself as a good fix. But first, new American made rubber must be installed. A second set of SS trXus are on back order until February so I have been looking into the Mickey Thompson MTZ P3 made by Cooper tire here in the USA.
I am coming up to COPY your Hydro assist..
- Thread starter
- #544
So 4wheel parts in Portland did me right and simply pushed my funds from the trXus order from back in May over to the MTZ P3 tires waiving the shipping fee from Penn. and the fact that they cost more per each. Should have tires to put on these ugly wheels in a week or so. I was leaning toward Graphite powder coat but then I was influenced by @spyduh and went with dark bronze.
Trail Ready beadlocks made in Prineville, OR. Their blanks used to be made in Iowa but are now flow formed in Taiwan. They say these new blanks score higher on the Rockwell hardness test. I bought their cast version at $495 each. Their forged wheels are pushing $900 each. One wheel assembly weighs 35 pounds. 17x8.5 with 3.5bs.
Trail Ready beadlocks made in Prineville, OR. Their blanks used to be made in Iowa but are now flow formed in Taiwan. They say these new blanks score higher on the Rockwell hardness test. I bought their cast version at $495 each. Their forged wheels are pushing $900 each. One wheel assembly weighs 35 pounds. 17x8.5 with 3.5bs.
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- Thread starter
- #545
Promises promises…..I am coming up to COPY your Hydro assist..
Hydro assist with the tie rod in the factory position has been done by many including myself and well document On Mud.I am coming up to COPY your Hydro assist..
It’s pretty straight forward and well worth it.
Yup not that hard at all if you have some fabrication skills, welder and a angle grinder. I looked at Broski's and Baldi's page for measurements.
Putting the ram up front of the axle is like any other toy setup is stupid easy. Putting the ram behind the axle was not terribly hard either but you just need to measure twice before cutting. Tack the bracket. Measure again, cycle the wheel and make sure you don't hit anything. When it looks good, then burn it in.
I also have a semi writeup with detailed pics on my thread as well.
I'm about to help a local MUD member that lives 10minutes from me do his hydro install soon as well.
Cant believe you listened to me. Look at that bronze color!
Not as straight forward as my pump location is different from the 1fz....
well Morro Bay sure as hell is alot closer than Washington... =)
Hydro assist with the tie rod in the factory position has been done by many including myself and well document On Mud.I am coming up to COPY your Hydro assist..
It’s pretty straight forward and well worth it
More then happy to help
hmm.. Maybe we can entice @baldilocks to make the trek down too ..Hydro assist with the tie rod in the factory position has been done by many including myself and well document On Mud.
It’s pretty straight forward and well worth it
More then happy to help
Hydro Party @Road Apple is looking to get his done, he has collected all his parts and I have offered to help him get it all welded up
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- #557
I had Trail Ready beadlock wheels on “Detroit Steel”, a Ram Charger I built ten years ago. It was time for new tires and I wanted to get away from the 16” oem wheels and into a 17” because it’s a much more common size and will also allow me to do the 5th gen 4runner front brake upgrade. Not to mention my oem wheels are beaten to heck and I’m not sure how much more beating they can take. Also, I rip at least one valve stem a year what with there position in the stock wheel, and lastly, I’ll be able to ditch the 1” wheel spacers I’ve been running since I went to 37’s in 2017.
I did the math and gave a lot of thought to fixing my sway bar problem by with a thicker bar and LCP HD links but decided that eventually I’d have problems with it again which will cost me more money to fix and since the AntiRock was no more expensive than an HD stock style set up it seems like AntiRock is the logical choice.
Hopefully I’ve purchase my last wheels and last rear sway bar.
Not that you are asking, but I agree with your thoughts and they are sound choices. Can't wait to see some work get done.
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- #559
I think it may be near two weeks before I make more progress on the sway bar. I removed the rear bumper for better access yesterday and that’s all I had time for. Today is Monday back to work and Wednesday the wife and I are going out of town on one of those fancy flying machines for four days then it’s back to work. We shall see…Not that you are asking, but I agree with your thoughts and they are sound choices. Can't wait to see some work get done.
All I know is that I missed out on wheeling last winter because my rig was in pieces and don’t want to miss out this winter. I like snow.
