Notso successful day today. Got the box all torn down and cleaned up, but then since I didn’t get the @cruiseroutfit rebuild kit, I didn’t end up with the input shaft seal that doesn’t seem to be available unless you buy the whole servo end, for massive amounts of money. AND it’s the first piece to start the assembly process with. Got new everything except that one part.
I didn’t take any pics of the servo/pitman teeth mesh on the servo, I will have to do that tomorrow. They are pretty beat/chewed up, so I might have to go the route of replacing the whole thing anyway.
Thanks to @Box Rocket for his thread on the 105 shaft swap, read that before digging in, made it easy.
Stopped by trans shop this morning, NEW NV4500 case is now there, waiting on a few more bits and pieces before it starts going together. They should have it ready to pick up by the time I get back from Cruise Moab.
Back in front of steering gear parts. Sourced a potential new seal from local bearing supply house (McGuire), seen below. The NOK BP0077G (original seal) is not available stand alone from Toyota (at least that I can source). Measurements of NOK seal are 32mm OD, 19mm shaft size, and 6.1mm thickness. Measurements of DUROS seal are 32x19x5, so close enough I think, but need to do some investigating.
After doing some reading, it looks like I’ll be much better off replacing the servo though, worn teeth pictured below.
Good progress today, got clutch pedal assembly and master in, as well as clearing up some floor space by putting the second Scheelmann seat in, and then getting the hydroboost adapted and brake pedal appropriately reshaped.
Measured up the clutch master, turned into a drawing I could print on sticky paper to stick to firewall, center punch the holes, then drill out and bolt up
Unfortunately it looks like a PO sent some zip screws through the firewall at some point, little bit of a bummer but I’ll fill with something
Pretty stoked how clean it’s going to be when all back together.
With all the clutch stuff installed, I found out I didn’t really need to adjust the brake pedal, I could just leave it like this and have “auto clutch” so it doesn’t stall whenever I hit the brakes
Kind of curious if this is where an OEM clutch safety switch or whatever you’d call it would go. Haven’t come across anything like that yet.
Super excited about having matching seats now. The older WRX seat was just way too high. I will have to find a new spot to mount amp now though (was between seat and seat bracket before).
Hydroboost from an Astrovan that’s been waiting on another project is getting repurposed, since the Cummins isn’t going to have a vacuum pump
Had to take a chisel to the locknut to get it off so I could measure up what is needed for an adapter plate to the Toyota bolt pattern in the firewall.
Pretty tight little unit without the master cylinder attached
Fairly significant size difference between the boosters.
Adapter plate finished up, with the little locking tab in there to keep it from rotating (somehow?? Don’t know how that would happen during use)
Firewall is going to be a WHOLE lot cleaner with this setup.
Once it was all snugged up, was able to investigate how much work adjusting the pushrod will need. About 1-1/4” of shortening, that’ll be tomorrow though.
Lining up the clutch and brake pedal, seems as though they are pretty flat with the skinny pedal closer to the floor. Pretty typical from my experience with other vehicles.
So the booster is smaller, but the reservoir/MC is a bit bigger. Called the parts store to check on part number of MC, they say it has a bore of 1.125” and the threads are “9/16-mumble”. Good enough info for now though. Asked about brake lines with different ends on them, answer was “brakes are not my area of specialty”. The PN for this one is the 180x number.
Can’t really recommend filling up your tank 19 miles before you lose oil pressure. 24gals is a lot of fuel.
This was a super dirty job that I don’t want to do again for a very long time. Everything looked good, just dirty as hell.
With tank out, decided now would be prime time to delete LSPV. Noticed this bracket up front under the booster that would no longer be needed, and I needed a 90* to replace the LSPV so I decided to repurpose it a little.
Getting this out is a little more involved than expected. I had to undo the rear and second to rear (under the back door) body mounts, put a jack under the body (a nice big block to distribute the load a bit, right below the tailgate), then use a nice long bar to eek a little more room between the body and frame. Came right out after that.
I’m convinced Toyota painted these parts with depleted uranium or something. Cleaned up really nice.
“While it’s out” better make room for the diesel nozzle. Holesaw did a good job.
Finally have a chance to put this on. A bit early in the swap, but there is no going back now.