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#jamaicamesad every time I swung the hammer. “Believe me when I tell you this hurts me more than it hurts you”...

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Once I got over that trauma, I pulled the front springs to check oil pan clearance. A whole lotta stuff in a pretty small space up there at the upper limit of suspension travel, that’s for sure.

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And sure enough, the entire front half is sitting on the oil pan. Next time it’s out, I will be seeing how much internal clearance there is, but I’m afraid it’s not much (see oil pickup tube above, it’s connected on that corner). Might have to limit travel, but it won’t be by much.

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Finally had a chance to see what needs to happen here. Some number of square inches will need to be removed for the shifter. Green tape shows the lower corner of shift tower. I was thinking Skully marked the spot, but glad he doesn’t since that is even farther up.

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Figure since the tank is out it’s probably a great time to replace this thing, even though a guesstimate of number of times it’s been up and down is less than 2000. 20gals between fillups x 10mpg = 200 miles for each cycle, 395000/200 = 1975 cycles. This doesn’t account for sloshing, etc.

But hey, they are available so why not?

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Had a few minutes at the end of day today so dig into fuel pickup/sender a little.

“I don’t always strip screws, but when I do, I strip screws that are only available via special order and take a week for the dealer to get” The sender unit is held in place by two small Phillips head screws, first came out just fine, second one was made from putty apparently.

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New one is way shiny-er than the old one, but I imagine it’s designed for a million or more cycles, not the ~2000 from above. It’s a job I don’t want to do again though so I figure better safe than sorry when the tank is already out.

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Wire connections in case anyone is in this position and forget to document what goes where.

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The original fuel feed tube appears to be soldered onto banjo fitting on the cover. I want a much larger fuel supply for the Cummins, so went ahead and cut said tube off. Plan at this point is to use fuel hose as a junction between the stainless draw straw and the nub leftover after cutting OEM stuff off.

Needed to also enlarge the hole in the lid a bit.

before:

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after:

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Had a few minutes at the end of day today so dig into fuel pickup/sender a little.

“I don’t always strip screws, but when I do, I strip screws that are only available via special order and take a week for the dealer to get” The sender unit is held in place by two small Phillips head screws, first came out just fine, second one was made from putty apparently.

View attachment 2694872

New one is way shiny-er than the old one, but I imagine it’s designed for a million or more cycles, not the ~2000 from above. It’s a job I don’t want to do again though so I figure better safe than sorry when the tank is already out.

View attachment 2694871

Wire connections in case anyone is in this position and forget to document what goes where.

View attachment 2694873

The original fuel feed tube appears to be soldered onto banjo fitting on the cover. I want a much larger fuel supply for the Cummins, so went ahead and cut said tube off. Plan at this point is to use fuel hose as a junction between the stainless draw straw and the nub leftover after cutting OEM stuff off.

Needed to also enlarge the hole in the lid a bit.

before:

View attachment 2694874

after:

View attachment 2694875
Doing good work man. The pics are great for others to reference.
 
Disassembly of unit:

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need to refine it a bit, but this is basic idea:

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Bottom of draw straw cut to avoid sucking itself to the bottom of tank:

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Injection pump got dropped off at shop this evening too, along with all the cores I’ve been collecting to make one solid pump from. Can’t wait to try it out.

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Clutch plumbing:

Bought four different -3 stainless braided lines before all the parts were in, from 12 to 24" in length. I figured I'd need straight on one end and 90* on the other. That turned out to be right, and length of 24" goes right from the Toyota hardline (attached to clutch master) to the Dakota slave. It could stand to be ~1" shorter, but it'll work quite nicely, especially since I also asked at the local hydraulic shop and they said "oh ya, we can make that line" and then pulled out a bunch of -6 parts. I reminded the guy I was looking for a -3 line and he said something along the lines of "we don't/can't do -3, that's all for brake stuff". Was going to sell me a line twice as big and 5 adapters. Pretty sure 1" too long on a bad day is better than whatever they had any day.

This is the one I'm using:

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Edit: forgot about this piece, M10x1 inverted flare to -3 adapter. This is what goes on the Toyota hardline under the clutch master and allows the Russell line to be attached. If you could find a premade 24” line with the female M10 fitting on the straight end I think the line would be just about perfect length.

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Some days I only have a few minutes to work on this damn thing, but I gotta get SOMETHING done.

Working through de-gold-ifying this baby. Figured while I’m at it I better make it more accurate too.

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Too hot today.

Got a few small things done. Old hotrod diesel trick for getting rid of nearly all the structural integrity of a banjo bolt. We’ll see if I can get it tight enough with this much material missing.

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Re-did my “new” (used) brake pedal to go around steering shaft. Might not kill me now.

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Next up is to make sure this fits nicely and make a few pieces so it’s a super easy, repeatable, auto-manual swap. Obviously a lot more pieces involved, I’m just trying to figure out where to put my t-case shifter.

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Awww sheeeit… This is a “I’m Cummings” swap?

Man. I’m going to take back all my likes.

:flipoff2:
Ha. You just catching on to that?
 
Waiting on one more hose (fuel fill tube hose) and one more fitting (AN fitting for fuel feed from top of tank) and this tank can go back in for a lot more years. I didn’t even inspect these hoses when disassembling, just ordered new ones without thinking about it. Glad I did.

Old:

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Old on closer inspection:

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New (new clamps arriving with fuel inlet hose):

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Pretty stoked on today’s progress. Transmission is finally not supported by a chunk of 2x4. Was able to retain the stock cross member holes while at it. Hopefully it’ll still work if I decide a 6bt upgrade is needed.

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I do beleive you are the 1st of us to figure out a trans mount spacer that doesn't require modifying the cross member...Nicely done!
 
I do beleive you are the 1st of us to figure out a trans mount spacer that doesn't require modifying the cross member...Nicely done!
I think it might be in large part due to the Adventure Vehicles NW engine mounts? We’ll see what happens if I ever switch to a 6 cyl.
 

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