Builds Recently acquired locked 94 build (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 20, 2017
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697
Location
Boise, Idaho
Got a 94 with seriously blown head gasket not too long ago. Going to swap engines with a locally sourced 1FZ until my 4bt is finalized and ready to go in.

Pretty sure it belonged to somebody here at one point, according to the guy I bought it from who ended up not being able to get it into Canada.

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It’s a little rough around the edges, but I’m ok with that because I usually am too. This will be a daily driver and a camping/off-road rig, and eventually diesel (going to change up plans for my 92 to a v8 swap with some long travel goodies).

I’m seriously digging the factory rock sliders...

Rig will get a full kit of @Delta VS goodies as needed.

Time to learn all about this motor and the intricacies of these later model 80s.

First question, after reading in the FAQ and going down a little bit of a rabbit hole, it seems I can simply remove the VC and be fine? No need to actually replace it with a spool? I have a set of Aisin hubs waiting, so I just need to remove VC and install a CDL switch like the extra one I have for my 92?
 
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The VC can be removed anytime you want. The VC and the center differential are not related and reside in separated sections of the transfer case. Part time kits come with a spool for a reason. If you install manual hubs in place of the drive plates, you will not be able to motivate down the road unless the "center diff lock" is engaged all the time.

I had a 94 and now a 93 in white. I prefer these years for no airbags, TOYOTA on the grill. the dash, the exhaust over the frame instead of under and the possibility of finding one with the "poverty package" which would be clothe interior, manual seats with no leather anywhere. This interior holds up much better over the years. The OBD2 of the newer 80's would be nice for forced induction though.

why a 4bt instead of something with some power?
 
Those aren't rock sliders, not by any stretch of the imagination.

That comment was 100% tongue in cheek, don’t worry I won’t be “testing” them out :)

The VC can be removed anytime you want. The VC and the center differential are not related and reside in separated sections of the transfer case. Part time kits come with a spool for a reason. If you install manual hubs in place of the drive plates, you will not be able to motivate down the road unless the "center diff lock" is engaged all the time.

I had a 94 and now a 93 in white. I prefer these years for no airbags, TOYOTA on the grill. the dash, the exhaust over the frame instead of under and the possibility of finding one with the "poverty package" which would be clothe interior, manual seats with no leather anywhere. This interior holds up much better over the years. The OBD2 of the newer 80's would be nice for forced induction though.

why a 4bt instead of something with some power?

Thanks for the info. So if I remove the VC and add a CDL switch like my 92, it’ll act just like my 92, correct (my 92 has manual hubs and I just have the CDL locked all the time)? All this time I was under the impression the VC was more integral into the “get up and go” part I guess is all.

Reasons for 4bt:

1. I have one almost completely built
2. I will be able to coerce more than enough power for my liking out of it (hi-performance diesel is a little of my background), this one has a cam, studs, etc and will have plenty of extra fuel and a small set of twin turbos.
3. It’s cheap, and I have a core 440 I will put in there too to go along with it with some diesel internals

Would I prefer a Toyota diesel? YES
Would I prefer a newer tech Cummins? YES
I just don’t have that kind of cash to throw at it.

Also, I JUST noticed this thing doesn’t have a sunroof! Super stoked on that. Can’t believe I hadn’t noticed that before.

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The VC can be removed anytime you want. The VC and the center differential are not related and reside in separated sections of the transfer case. Part time kits come with a spool for a reason. If you install manual hubs in place of the drive plates, you will not be able to motivate down the road unless the "center diff lock" is engaged all the time.

I had a 94 and now a 93 in white. I prefer these years for no airbags, TOYOTA on the grill. the dash, the exhaust over the frame instead of under and the possibility of finding one with the "poverty package" which would be clothe interior, manual seats with no leather anywhere. This interior holds up much better over the years. The OBD2 of the newer 80's would be nice for forced induction though.

why a 4bt instead of something with some power?

Also, it does seem to be the “poverty package” you speak of (although I thought usually included non-sliding rear windows?), and on closer look, since (I’m guessing) there is no sunroof, there is also no map light where the controls for sunroof usually go. Am I missing something there (it doesn’t look like it)?
 
Damn! Looks like you got yourself a unicorn there. No sunroof would be the preference of many of us. Cool rig.

Looking forward to your 4bt thread.

Yes, will be just like your 91 once the VC is out and switch is installed.
 
Yes, will be just like your 91 once the VC is out and switch is installed.

Awesome, that is great news.

Why is the obd2 nice for forced induction? Just curious. Easier to tune or something? Or is it an emissions thing?
 
I’m no expert on the subject but, from what I have gathered, the obd2 engine ecu can account for the additional fuel necessary to avoid an overly lean condition at wider throttle opening. Turbo/super charging has been done on the obd1 engines but it involves some craftiness and a seventh injector place somewhere in the intake system.
 
I am so jealous!!! That is my dream Cruiser! My biggest regret is selling my sunroofless 91.

Wanna trade for my lx? :)
 
I am so jealous!!! That is my dream Cruiser! My biggest regret is selling my sunroofless 91.

Wanna trade for my lx? :)

Haha, what year? Lockers? Straight across? Careful what you ask for...
 
Haha! We need to talk, 97 with lockers, swap my suspension/wheels and tires in your driveway :)
 
Haha! We need to talk, 97 with lockers, swap my suspension/wheels and tires in your driveway :)

you did see the part about severely blown head gasket, right? I do have access to a used 1FZ I was planning to transplant, but that hasn't happened yet. Ellensburg really isn't that far of a drive for you though...now you've got me thinking...pm incoming (no it's not, your inbox is full)
 
I think I cleared my pm box
 
Finally getting around to pulling engine from the donor rig. Looking for some advice on things to do while swapping an engine. I will be cleaning the crap out of everything for certain, also thinking about getting one of those rear heater bypass hoses from @LandCruiserPhil and deleting that whole system.

From what I’ve read, it’s best to pull engine and trans, is that also if only swapping a different engine in? Pulling both from donor, so I guess I’ll see how difficult that is.

Is there a collection of parts I should have handy? Read some about the plastic electrical connectors breaking, but not really anything about how to fix it or where to source new ones. A lot of that will be going away anyway since this engine is more of a stopgap until the Cummins is finished.

Anyway, any helpful tips would be greatly appreciated, or links to threads that cover this well already.

Edit: power steering pump is bad, worth it to rebuild, or just replace?

I also noticed this engine has some pretty prominent egr. Worth it to pull head and clean, and replace HG while out? I’m assuming this rig had HG replaced by now, but can’t be sure. Keeping in mind this engine IS a stopgap until Cummins is ready.
 
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Finally getting around to pulling engine from the donor rig. Looking for some advice on things to do while swapping an engine. I will be cleaning the crap out of everything for certain, also thinking about getting one of those rear heater bypass hoses from @LandCruiserPhil and deleting that whole system.

From what I’ve read, it’s best to pull engine and trans, is that also if only swapping a different engine in? Pulling both from donor, so I guess I’ll see how difficult that is.

Is there a collection of parts I should have handy? Read some about the plastic electrical connectors breaking, but not really anything about how to fix it or where to source new ones. A lot of that will be going away anyway since this engine is more of a stopgap until the Cummins is finished.

Anyway, any helpful tips would be greatly appreciated, or links to threads that cover this well already.

Edit: power steering pump is bad, worth it to rebuild, or just replace?

I also noticed this engine has some pretty prominent egr. Worth it to pull head and clean, and replace HG while out? I’m assuming this rig had HG replaced by now, but can’t be sure. Keeping in mind this engine IS a stopgap until Cummins is ready.

Since I've done this, pull the engine, trans and TC as one piece. Pull the radiator and the front core support, it makes removing the long assembly a lot easier ?

Enjoy !
 
Since I've done this, pull the engine, trans and TC as one piece. Pull the radiator and the front core support, it makes removing the long assembly a lot easier ?

Enjoy !

TC too huh? Will do! Already have the entire front end off so that should make things a bit easier. Thanks!
 
@LandCruiserPhil just checked your site, can't find the heater bypass tube, is it still on there and I'm just missing it?
 
Got a 94 with seriously blown head gasket not too long ago. Going to swap engines with a locally sourced 1FZ until my 4bt is finalized and ready to go in.

This will be a daily driver and a camping/off-road rig, and eventually diesel (going to change up plans for my 92 to a v8 swap with some long travel goodies).

So excited for your setups! You’ll have a 2.8, 4bt, and a V8 to work from, that’s so awesome!
 

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