Builds Recently acquired locked 94 build

[ppc]

One thing I kept coming across is "there is no idle adjustment for 1FZ". I see screws that seem to be for that kind of thing, does that only apply to OBD2 rigs?

Any input appreciated.

There is no screw or mechanical adjustment for idle. Idle is electronically controlled by the IAC - Idle Air Control. It may take a few start cycles to regulate properly. Throttle cable can be adjusted for proper slack and WOT only. ODB1 or ODB2 makes no difference.

 

[swankstar]

Ok thanks

 

[bryson]

Check for vacuum leaks in the intake manifold as well - not just the hoses - intake manifold and throttle body gaskets, etc...

Your idle issue allso sounds very similar to what happens when the rubber intake hose (air cleaner to throttle body) is torn and allowing un-metered air into the engine. Check the hose very carefully, as it doesn't take much of a crack/tear to let in enough air to wreak havoc, and they're often hard to find due to the bellows in the hose.

 

[swankstar]

Check for vacuum leaks in the intake manifold as well - not just the hoses - intake manifold and throttle body gaskets, etc...

Your idle issue allso sounds very similar to what happens when the rubber intake hose (air cleaner to throttle body) is torn and allowing un-metered air into the engine. Check the hose very carefully, as it doesn't take much of a crack/tear to let in enough air to wreak havoc, and they're often hard to find due to the bellows in the hose.

Will do, thanks. The intake is a 1-piece silicone jobber, so I'm pretty sure it's not having any issues.

 

[swankstar]

Welp, turns out you'd be amazed what you find when searching for disconnected vacuum hoses.

"Somehow" the main battery GROUND didn't get hooked up. To the block. So just the little ground to the body was carrying everything.

Make sure you don't have loose nuts guys.

 

[swankstar]

Rig did quite well at Cruise Moab! First time I've ever been to Moab for anything and I had a great time. Will definitely be going back there.

Side note, I won the first raffle of my entire life. Got a full rear axle re-gear/rebuild set from Nitro. Chrome-moly axles, 4.88 r/p, and bearing kit. Pretty excited about that. Since I JUST finished installing the t-case gears in the 94, I'll just have to use the 4.88 to put in the 92. Axles are definitely getting upgraded on this one though!

Driving thoughts with the t-case rebuild with underdrive, low-low gears, and VC removal:

Having a major issue when unlocking the hubs. Very nasty sound on acceleration and deceleration. It is definitely related to locking the diff AND having the hubs unlocked, as I can have the hubs locked in (AWD), be going down the freeway and lock and unlock the center diff as much as I want with no ill effects. As soon as I lock the center diff and open the front hubs, there is a terrible rattling noise that develops. Tempted to put the VC back in to see what happens.

That is my only issue with the t-case work. With my 315/70/17s, the 10% underdrive gears give me ever so slightly higher rpms than I'd like on the freeway, but I don't spend a lot of time on the freeway at high speed, so no biggy there, and it also just gets me prepped for when I move up in tire size when these wear out.

There is an extremely faint high pitched whine I'm associating with the underdrive gears, but it is neither bothersome or worrisome to me. Anybody who is driving through Boise, ID is welcome to take it for a spin to hear for themselves (only a couple minutes off freeway).

The underdrive gears coupled with the 3:1 low range gears was truly amazing on the trails at Moab. In my 92, I would've had to just put it in low range at the beginning of the trail and hope nothing got too steep. I was able to stay in high range most of the time with this set up, and when needed, just drop into low range and literally crawl up pretty much anything.

Edit: spelling

 

[swankstar]

TOTALLY forgot about the other thing that made this trip easy and fun. Installed a full 2.5" ICON/DVS kit before heading out. This stuff is about as awesome as sharks with lazors strapped to them! Such a mind blowing difference between this rig and my 92 with the OME setup. Super impressed and won't be running anything else in the future (as long as I can afford it anyways).

 

[bryson]

Do you have the proper birfs to match your part-time kit? The end of the birf making contact with the backside of the hub dial could certainly explain your noise...

 

[swankstar]

Do you have the proper birfs to match your part-time kit? The end of the birf making contact with the backside of the hub dial could certainly explain your noise...

I’m not sure I’m following how that would make the sound (all ears for a description of how that would be happening)? All the wheels are going to be spinning the same speed (straightline on the freeway) whether the diff is locked or not. So accel or decel it doesn’t seem like a bunch of noise is going to be generated.

Regardless, to answer your question, I was told by Cruiser Outfitters that being built in late 93 makes it the right length birfs.

 

[swankstar]

Another topic:

Any body seen a better way to fix this than just welding it up (hood stop or whatever you call it)?

 

[BILT4ME]

Another topic:

Any body seen a better way to fix this than just welding it up (hood stop or whatever you call it)?

View attachment 1973741

Weld it or sandwich a flat washer above and below with the nuts.

 

[swankstar]

Weld it or sandwich a flat washer above and below with the nuts.

Weld sounds like the better of those two options to me. Thanks for the “trailfix” idea in the future though. I guess I was just wondering if somebody (one of the members/vendors) had come up with some genius little doohickey for fixing.

 

[bryson]

I’m not sure I’m following how that would make the sound (all ears for a description of how that would be happening)? All the wheels are going to be spinning the same speed (straightline on the freeway) whether the diff is locked or not. So accel or decel it doesn’t seem like a bunch of noise is going to be generated.

Regardless, to answer your question, I was told by Cruiser Outfitters that being built in late 93 makes it the right length birfs.

All 4 wheels are travelling the same speed, yes, but if your center diff is unlocked (2wd now) then the front drive parts are not spinning. This is the scenario where the birf could be rubbing on the hub parts. Were your birf lengths verified with measurements, or simply by build date? It'd be an easy check - simply pull off the outer hub body and check for contact on the inside of the hub dial.

 

[swankstar]

All 4 wheels are travelling the same speed, yes, but if your center diff is unlocked (2wd now) then the front drive parts are not spinning. This is the scenario where the birf could be rubbing on the hub parts. Were your birf lengths verified with measurements, or simply by build date? It'd be an easy check - simply pull off the outer hub body and check for contact on the inside of the hub dial.

If my center diff is unlocked and my hubs are unlocked, I’m not going anywhere. I don’t have a spool in the t-case. I removed the VC so it’s essentially exactly like a HF2A, just with a longer output shaft and associated housing.

 

[bryson]

Ah, I misunderstood then. So why the locking hubs if you don't have the part time kit?

I wouldn't think the VC removal has anything to do with your noise. I do still think the hubs and associated clearances could be to blame though.

Can you tell if the noise is coming from the t-case or the front end?

 

[swankstar]

Ah, I misunderstood then. So why the locking hubs if you don't have the part time kit?

I wouldn't think the VC removal has anything to do with your noise. I do still think the hubs and associated clearances could be to blame though.

Can you tell if the noise is coming from the t-case or the front end?

Well, as far as I could tell while in there (granted I was pretty tired), I could not for the life of me tell what the difference between locking the CDL and a spool would be.

It absolutely seemed like it was coming from just behind me, which makes me think it’s the t-case. I was under there today and poked around the driveline a little. All seemed snug.

When I have time (after Overland Expo), I’m considering putting the VC back in and see if that changes anything. I’m not convinced that would be time well spent though.

 

[ppc]

In your setup installing the VC with the hubs unlocked is just going to destroy the VC. That said running with hubs unlocked, no part-time spool installed, without the CDL locked I'm surprised your vehicle even moves. I see no purpose or benefit with what you have setup.

 

[swankstar]

In your setup installing the VC with the hubs unlocked is just going to destroy the VC. That said running with hubs unlocked, no part-time spool installed, without the CDL locked I'm surprised your vehicle even moves. I see no purpose or benefit with what you have setup.

Good point on re-installing the VC, didn’t think that one through. Wouldn’t do any good with the hubs unlocked, except maybe dampen things somehow when the CDL is engaged.

I’m not following what you’re talking about after that though. As stated, rig isn’t going to move if I DIDN’T have the CDL engaged with hubs unlocked. Problem lies in when I have the CDL engaged and hubs unlocked. Bad noise comes from t-case area. This is the same setup I have in my 92. 2wd is a lot nicer in my book. I was talking about AWD with CDL engaged and not engaged for comparison, no noise in either of those situations.

 

[ppc]

I guess I didn't follow completely followed your setup and sequences. With the center locked your still rotating all the front drive components. Without any load on the front the movements in my opinion are going to be unpredictable. If everything was new and in spec you may not have a problem but I would guess with worn spindle bushings, worn birfields everything is more or less bouncing around. If you like 2wd so much disconnect the front driveshaft or put the spool in the transfer case.

 

[bryson]

@ppc is right - to have true 2wd you need the spool in the t-case. Without it, you're just running in 4wd with the hubs unlocked - your front driveshaft and axleshafts still spin, because you must drive with your CDL locked to move (as you know).

The spool in the t-case allows the front drive components to be truly disconnected - meaning they won't even spin when you drive in 2wd. Once you lock the CDL (which is now your front drive engagement with the spool installed) the front driveshaft and front axle shafts now spin under power and send power to the wheels (assuming your hubs are locked).

The following is how your rig will work with/without the part-time spool. Your removal of the VC won't impact enough to be noted here:

Without part-time spool:
CDL off and hubs unlocked - vehicle won't move as all power is sent to front axle that is disconnected via hubs.
CDL off and hubs locked - vehicle drives normally in AWD just like stock.
CDL on and hubs unlocked - vehicle drives only via rear axle, but front drive components all still turn - just no power transferred to the front wheels because the hubs are unlocked.
CDL on and hubs locked - vehicle drives like a part-time vehicle in 4 high (or, an AWD vehicle with the CDL locked.)

With part-time spool:
CDL off and hubs unlocked - vehicle drives in 2wd, and all front drive components are completely disconnected (do not spin). All power sent to rear axle.
CDL off and hubs locked - vehicle still drives in 2wd, but front drive components are spun via the hubs now (no power to front, as it's still disconnected in the transfer case).
CDL on and hubs unlocked - vehicle is in 4wd, and all axles are powered, but front does not drive under power due to unlocked hubs.
CDL on and hubs locked - vehicle is in true 4wd, and all axles are powered.