Builds Rebirth of Squatch

[Lowrecoil30]

Intake showed up. Problem is for it to fit properly and clear the hood, it has to rotate to the point that the air cleaner is where the batter should be. Looks like I will be relocating it to the driver side, which may work out better as this is where the computer is going to sit and where the factory 5.3 battery cables come off the more.

Anyone have experience with moving the battery to the driver side? I know that there are a handful of wires that will need to be rerouted to that side for power.

 

[Lowrecoil30]

Question: So I am going to take the 3rd member out of my original rear axle and swap it into the new full float 80 axle. I am doing this as my rear 3rd already has 5.29 gears and a locker, appears to be a spartan/lock rite or something similar. I know the original FJ60 rears have c-clips while the new FJ80 axle is full float so there are no clips.

Is there something special that I need to do when swapping the 3rds? Ideally I would like to put the 80 3rd back in the 60 housing so I can sell the housing complete. Also do the lunch box lockers eliminate the need for the c-clips? or are they still in there?

Thanks

 

[cruisermatt]

You still need the C-clips with the locker in a semi-float application.
The 60 third will work fine in the 80 housing. I don't remember if the 80 carrier/spiders are clearanced for c-clips or not.
Regardless it's a different case then the 60 series (extra pinion oil passage) and a different ratio then FJ60's had stock so you might be better selling it separately.

 

[gpfj40]

I think you would be better off swaping the 5.29 from the 60 3rd to the 80 third. I haven't fully researched this but I believe you would have a stronger 3rd and the full float feature. The locker may swap too. You may need to set up a new pinion bearing but should be about to reuse the side bearings if they are ok.

I'm thinking the 80 third will not work in the 60 housing cause of the clips. I missed where your 80 third was open, LSD or a locker. LSD doesn't have space for the clip I know for sure. I'd sell the 60 3rd to fund doing it right with the 80 3rd.

 

[Tapage]

I think you would be better off swaping the 5.29 from the 60 3rd to the 80 third..

sure thing .. and no .. C clips would not work on the 80 3rd spiders / carrier ( the FF version you have )

 

[Lowrecoil30]

Ended selling the 80 3rd outright. My 60 3rd has a lockrite in it and you are able to run it without the c-clips. So after pulling the 3rd out, I just swapped the locker back in and slapped the chunk in the 80 axle.

 

[Tapage]

lockrite in it and you are able to run it without the c-clips.

didn't get this ..

you are able to run your lock right without c clips on your 60 housing ..?

 

[Lowrecoil30]

When the 3rd was in the 60 housing it had c clips. Which were a pain to get out. You have to disassemble the locker to get the shafts out and 3rd out. When I installed my original locked and geared 3rd in the 80 housing i reinstalled the locker before installing the 3rd.

Since the 80 housing is full floating there is no need for c clips. Hope this helps.

 

[Tapage]

When the 3rd was in the 60 housing it had c clips. Which were a pain to get out. You have to disassemble the locker to get the shafts out and 3rd out. When I installed my original locked and geared 3rd in the 80 housing i reinstalled the locker before installing the 3rd.

Since the 80 housing is full floating there is no need for c clips. Hope this helps.

got it .. yeah I know .. got lost in the translation ..

 

[Lowrecoil30]

Want to apologize for the lack of updates. Been busy with work and the house. It also doesn't help that we have been having a heat wave here with 100F plus days.

I have slowly been chipping away at the engine harness and putting together the wiring runs from the fuel tank and related emissions stuff that need to go up front to where the ECM is going to be mounted.

Did get the FJ62 tank with the modified GM pump put into place and everything clears nicely. Only issue I had was assembling the PTFE AN fittings and ended up screwing the threads up on the first one.

 

[Lowrecoil30]

Well looks like photobucket made some changes to their policy and is not allowing 3rd party hosting without paying for it. So if some of the pictures are not working it is their fault. I will be moving everything over to flickr but it may take a bit. In the mean time I finished up the fuel line routing over the weekend and holiday.

Mounted up the evap canister purge valve as well. I plan on mounting the canister itself in between the intake and firewall in the big void. Looks like a few people have mounted it there with no issues.

 

[Lowrecoil30]

Made great progress the last couple of days. I was able to finish all of the wiring for the motor on the driver side. This included getting the ecm mounted, bussman fuse block mounted, and the factory body harness cleaned up. Also finished all of the inside connections for the ODBII port, "Choke" Engine light, and the TCC brake switch.

Rigged up some power to a spare battery to check functionality of the system and my wiring. At first I had not power and nothing was working. Silly me, I forgot to hookup the grounds for the relay block. Once that was addressed, the fuel pump cycles on and I can interface with the computer using TorquePro.

Now I just need to plumb in my trans cooler and I can test fire the motor.

 

[Lowrecoil30]

Sorry for the lack of updates, been busy getting ready for the arrival of our daughter which should be any day now.

Finished up mounting the trans and power steering coolers:

As well as the resting of the plumbing and the final piece of engine accessory, the Vortec cover. Did have a little hiccup when I first filled it up with coolant as the old water pumps was bad and leaking, so I put in a new pump as well. Figure it is just extra insurance.

On a side note, I jerry rigged up some battery cables and and low and be hold after a few cranks she fired right up. Has good oil pressure, idles great and is not throwing any codes yet. Also about half of the monitors were set so that is good news.

All that is left before the first test drive, is to finish the batter box and cables, then bleed the brakes.

 

[Lowrecoil30]

So finishing up all the little details and had a question about using the stock FJ60 temperature gauge and sender.

Last night I finished burping the cooling system and made sure my 2-speed fan was working properly. However, when I was all finished the stock gauge reads really high on coolant temperature but when using my OBDII scanner it shows that the computer is seeing a temperature around 200-210F which is where is should be running. The FJ60 sender is in the passenger rear head port.

Ideally I would like to see the stock gauge read more towards the middle of its range when it is at this temperature. Has anyone ran into this issue and come up with a solution?

 

[Lowrecoil30]

First test drive today!



Runs great but I still have a bit of work to do.
Needs rear shock mounts and the brakes bleed again. Might actually need to install a different master cylinder as I dont think the FJ60 one has enough power for the FJ80 rear axle with disk brakes.

Also I am getting a bunch of rear drive line vibration. Initially I only noticed when I let of the gas at any speed, but once I got out on the main road and above 40 mph it was really bad on and off the gas. I think the rear shaft might need new u-joints as there is about 1/16" of lateral play in the joint. I.e. the caps are tight in the yoke, but the joint can move side to side in the joint.

Also notice during the test drive a couple more of the engine monitors were set. I think there are only 3 left and no check engine light yet.

 

[cruisedeisel]

Sick! I am just about to swap in an fj80 rear end with disks and YES you need the brake booster to go with this setup. I beleive the fj80 master cyl has a 1" bore unlike the 60 series, they are 7/8's or 15/16s?

 

[cruisedeisel]

You probably know this but make sure the u joint ears on the DS are aligned or else you will have vibrations.

 

[orion]

Truck looks great...I've enjoyed following along.

- Brian

 

[NookShneer]

First test drive today!



Runs great but I still have a bit of work to do.
Needs rear shock mounts and the brakes bleed again. Might actually need to install a different master cylinder as I dont think the FJ60 one has enough power for the FJ80 rear axle with disk brakes.

Also I am getting a bunch of rear drive line vibration. Initially I only noticed when I let of the gas at any speed, but once I got out on the main road and above 40 mph it was really bad on and off the gas. I think the rear shaft might need new u-joints as there is about 1/16" of lateral play in the joint. I.e. the caps are tight in the yoke, but the joint can move side to side in the joint.

Also notice during the test drive a couple more of the engine monitors were set. I think there are only 3 left and no check engine light yet.

Might be useful in your MC/booster search.

Brake Master Cylinder and Brake Booster Specs for Toyota 4x4s | Roundforge

 

[Lowrecoil30]

Sorry for the lack of updates.

Ended up swapping out the stock FJ60 master cylinder for a FZJ80 master and that made a work of difference on far as pedal feel and how well the brakes work now.

Also finally sorted out my driveline issues. I sacked up and had a new driveline build by B W Driveline in Aubirn, CA. These guys were great, extremely quick, and responsive. I even got a heads up call from Bud, to let me know that my driveline would be done in 20 minute. Talk about customer service. We ended up going to a 1350 CV at the T-case and a standard Toyota joint at the differential. The nice thing is, when I go to one ton axles I will just need to change the slop out to a 1350 style and be good to go.

During the first test drive, it was a night and day difference. Where anytime with the old shaft I would have vibrations when letting off the gas. Also I could not get above 45 without it sounding like everything wanted to explode. With the new shaft I did have a little vibration here and there but very faint.

In order to fix this, I ended up cutting the perches off the rear axle and rotating the pinion up to aim at the t-case flange. Something I figured I would have to do. Once I did this I had no vibrations up to 65 mph, havent gone faster than that as I still dont have rear shocks. I did order a set of Bilstein 7100s with 275/78 valving for the rear. They should be here next week.