Builds Rebirth of Squatch

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I’m sure it would sell quickly...you have done great work to it.


If you did sell it, I know you said you want v8 power, but 3rd 4runners are getting pretty cheap, with a solid front axle, it would yield a pretty great family wheeling rig. Unsure of emissions laws, but a used supercharger or a cx racing turbo kit would put you close to v8 hp. Just not the low end torque.
 
megolfer said:
I would not chanhe the exhaust. Go to the ref that george said to go to. Take a set of truck manifolds and show they wont work. I would not change the exhaust yet.
Click to expand...

The manifolds were never in question. It was the fact that location of the 02s and cats changed a bit in order to get them to between the frame rails and transmission. I was told I have to run the factory section of exhaust from where is bolts to the manifold to past the second 02.

Haven't decided for sure but I may try to run my original exhaust at the next ref and see what they say.
 
My question would be what does it matter the location of the o2/afr sensors as long as they are after the collector and b4 or after the cat? Are they outputting voltage signals? Does the sniffer pass? Then it works and will work no differently if you install a different pipeor move the sensors up or down. Only thing I could see is if your cats are too far downstream to get nice and hot. Of course that's using logic and it sounds like that referee isn't thinking that way. But I bet he couldn't give you a solid legit reason as to why using the factory y pipe matters.
 
White Stripe said:
My question would be what does it matter the location of the o2/afr sensors as long as they are after the collector and b4 or after the cat? Are they outputting voltage signals? Does the sniffer pass? Then it works and will work no differently if you install a different pipe or move the sensors up or down. Only thing I could see is if your cats are too far downstream to get nice and hot. Of course that's using logic and it sounds like that referee isn't thinking that way. But I bet he couldn't give you a solid legit reason as to why using the factory y pipe matters.
Click to expand...

This is my question too. I am 100% sure that the new 5.3 runs cleaner than the original 2F, which means at the end of the day the emission that are being emitted into California's precious air are lower. But that means you are using actual logic and in my past experience that is not something California lawmakers use.
 
Sold it..........










Just kidding, Starting reworking the PCM harness to incorporate the BCM so I can trick the VATs system. Should hopefully have that done this holiday weekend and any associated trouble shooting. Also plan on finishing the plumbing for the air injection system, just need to pick up a bit of vacuum hose.
 
In CA the emissions/ inspection is done to every vehicle regardless of age? Im asking because here in Maine my truck is registered as an antique and i registered it without them ever even seeing it and it is exempt from safety inspections and emission checks... so lax here you could probably register your truck to your maine lake-house by mail..
 
Made some progress this weekend on the body control module. Also made some backwards progress....

Ended up getting the BCM mounted down in the driver side kick panel and everything wired up. Actually fits pretty well and can not be seen when the trim piece is in place.

38650000002_af6687cfa7_c.jpg


After getting the BCM and Secondary Air Pump all wired up, I hooked the battery back up. When I did, i was getting a repeated clicking noise from the Idle Air Control motor but would stop when the key was turned on. Weird... Anyways, I go to try and start the motor and low and behold the VATS works properly and shutdowns the motor instantly. At this point I know I need to have the BCM relearn the VATS signal which involves the key being in the On position for 10 mins, off for 10 seconds, then try to start it. This must be performed a total of 3 times. Well after 5 tries, it is still killing the engine and the IAC is still making noise.

During this whole process I figure I might as well try and verify that the Air pump is working as it should. Using the Scanner module of HPTuners I should be able to turn the pump on and off manually. Well as my luck goes, it does not work. After verifying that the relay is getting power, I dive into the tune of the PCM. I verify that all of the CVNs are correct, which they are. But notice that in the the main layer of the code, the air injection system is not enabled. Odd, as this is a 2001 5.3 and it should have air injection as it came with it when I bought it. For S's and G's I changed the binary 0 to a 1 to activate it, which resulted in a proper operation for the air pump. However the CVN changes, s***. So at this point I have a factory flashed computer that does not have air injection controls and according to the CVNs is correct, but the motor had air injection on it when I bought it. At this point I may buy another 2001 PCM to see if it has the air injection controls and correct CVNs. If it does I will just run the new PCM.

As far as the IAC and BCM issues, I found out I swapped the locations of the 12V ignition pins and ground pins. When the BCM was plugged in it was causing back feeding issues to the IAC. I have not had a chance to re-pin the connector as the ran showed up early on Sunday. Hopefully tonight I can swap everything around.
 
Lowrecoil30 said:
Made some progress this weekend on the body control module. Also made some backwards progress....

Ended up getting the BCM mounted down in the driver side kick panel and everything wired up. Actually fits pretty well and can not be seen when the trim piece is in place.

38650000002_af6687cfa7_c.jpg


After getting the BCM and Secondary Air Pump all wired up, I hooked the battery back up. When I did, i was getting a repeated clicking noise from the Idle Air Control motor but would stop when the key was turned on. Weird... Anyways, I go to try and start the motor and low and behold the VATS works properly and shutdowns the motor instantly. At this point I know I need to have the BCM relearn the VATS signal which involves the key being in the On position for 10 mins, off for 10 seconds, then try to start it. This must be performed a total of 3 times. Well after 5 tries, it is still killing the engine and the IAC is still making noise.

During this whole process I figure I might as well try and verify that the Air pump is working as it should. Using the Scanner module of HPTuners I should be able to turn the pump on and off manually. Well as my luck goes, it does not work. After verifying that the relay is getting power, I dive into the tune of the PCM. I verify that all of the CVNs are correct, which they are. But notice that in the the main layer of the code, the air injection system is not enabled. Odd, as this is a 2001 5.3 and it should have air injection as it came with it when I bought it. For S's and G's I changed the binary 0 to a 1 to activate it, which resulted in a proper operation for the air pump. However the CVN changes, s***. So at this point I have a factory flashed computer that does not have air injection controls and according to the CVNs is correct, but the motor had air injection on it when I bought it. At this point I may buy another 2001 PCM to see if it has the air injection controls and correct CVNs. If it does I will just run the new PCM.

As far as the IAC and BCM issues, I found out I swapped the locations of the 12V ignition pins and ground pins. When the BCM was plugged in it was causing back feeding issues to the IAC. I have not had a chance to re-pin the connector as the ran showed up early on Sunday. Hopefully tonight I can swap everything around.
Click to expand...
How hard is it to move ecm pins? Fyi, marks 4wd in Australia sells some sort of dummy bcm. Might be of use to you but not sure. I just remember seing it on the website.
 
White Stripe said:
How hard is it to move ecm pins? Fyi, marks 4wd in Australia sells some sort of dummy bcm. Might be of use to you but not sure. I just remember seing it on the website.
Click to expand...

Just looked and it is a $350 module, I have a lot of fight in me for $350. However, I do appreciate the heads up and I guess I could use it as a last resort.
 
I hate to say it but no real physical progress lately. However, I have been making theoretical progress that is giving me an actual direction in order to get this thing smog legal in the communist state of California.

I decided to reach back out to the CA BAR and setup a call with a referee to discuss some of the issues I have been having, including the issue with the secondary air injection not being programmed into my ecu even though all the CVNs match according to the GM TIS website.

From this conversation I was told that since it is a motor swap in CA, everything has to be CA compliant. Therefore a "Federal" ecu programming is not allowed. When I asked what my options where, I was told that I would have to have the computer reprogrammed by GM to a VIN # that is a CA compliant. I was under the initial understanding that I had to stick with the Vin/year motor that I original tried to get to pass. The referee who is the district manager for CA BAR told me that I am not stuck with a particular vin or year until it passes. At this point the dim light bulb went a little brighter and directly asked if I could switch to a 2002 Vin, which he actually suggested I do, as it eliminates the need for Air Injection and EGR. Sounds like a win/win for me.

I also verified that the exhaust needs to be uncut but I am allowed to cut the factory exhaust after the second o2 sensors. I am also not allowed to program electric fans or remove the VATs through tuning as the CVNs will change.

It was also reiterated multiple times that I have to provide a PO/Invoice from a dealership showing that they verified that programming/CVNs and that it is indeed a factory tune. I have gone to the Folsom Chevrolet dealership and they told me this is something they will not do. I plan on trying Roseville Chevrolet when it is back up and running. Hopefully if I drive it in there they will have an easier time of saying yes. If anyone here is a GM tech or is friends with a GM tech in the Nor Cal area that is willing to help that would be awesome.

As for the physical work, I did strip the EGR and air injection off the motor this morning as well as switch the manifolds back to stock truck manifolds. Luckily I have a buddy who is swapping a 6.0 in a pre-smog scout and he gave me his stock non-egr manifolds and mechanical fan. As for the exhaust it is going to be really tight but I might be able to get it to work with some creative thinking.
 
I talked to the referee also on the phone and he told me no way I could get the 5.3 to pass in a fj60. I hung up and laughed. Dont cut the exhaust. Take it to a different ref. Many people have passed without stock exhaust. Also I have never heard anyone needing verification from dealer on computer programming.
 
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