I assume you replacing rotors because they are below limit to have turned.
Take pictures as you go.
Pump brake pedal 40 time with key off to relive booster pump pressure, just as you would when topping-off brake fluid reservoir. This will make spreading pads (compressing piston) easy, during caliper removal to get pads passed lip of rotor. Do one side at a time, that way you'll have a reference side if things get confusing. You may have some trouble placing clip in caliper as you replace with NEW pads. This is where pictures come in hand and/or other side, and remember to put the early warning clips in with pads.
Clean rotors with brake cleaner or a good degreaser before putting on calipers, and don't touch brake pad surface with oily fingers. Use a torque wrench on all bolts as you assemble, including lugs. Not a bad Idea to bleed brakes before putting wheels on, if you do bleed.
Oh and adjust E brake shoes before putting on wheels, by tightening then back of a clicks.
Tools: a 3/4" breaker bar is great to have for lugs & caliper bolts, but 1/2" will normally do.
I purchased the premium rotors & pads online for in store pick-up at Advance Auto. By signing up for emails, I got a 20% discount. They looked just the same as OEM.
Tips: Wire brush rust from hub and back of wheel contact points. I rub a little grease on face of hub to rotor contact point and back of wheel where it butts to hub then wipe off without degreasing. This reduces rusting and makes next removal a snap.
Remember that reservoir fluid level is set after relieving booster pressure. If key turned on booster pump will turn on and build pressure as it draws fluid from reservoir. If pads & rotors are worn, the level will be appropriately lower. You'd only need set to max level if all new pads and rotors.
