- Thread starter
- #21
Any tips on putting new pads in, these things are a little tricky! I get top side in and bottom pops out...any help?
Rear Rotor Replacment (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ad27326
- Start date
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I presume you are addressing the emergency brake shoes. What you are experiencing I believe is normal for shoe type brakes.
If so my method is based on doing many brake jobs back in the day before disk brakes became common. I generally get the central spring that has the circular/cupped disk that holds it in place on first. Then I go for springs on the bottom (holding the adjuster in place). Then use a brake tool to mount the upper spring (hooking into the shoe first, then to the post). That will allow you to pull the shoe into the proper spot as you stretch the spring toward the upper spring mount post.
edit: deleted video as not what OP needed.
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- Thread starter
- #23
No..actually referring to the disc brake pads themselves, when I get them in, I can't get them spread apart to fit over new rotor....I'm a brake newb if you can't tell!!
Probably need to compress the pistons in further or get them to line up when squeezing them in. Make sure the brake res cap is off or unscrew it enough to relieve pressure.
See if this helps. You wont need to do everything they do. I try to find videos on what i want to do and watch it 100x's...
See if this helps. You wont need to do everything they do. I try to find videos on what i want to do and watch it 100x's...
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- Thread starter
- #25
Probably need to compress the pistons in further or get them to line up when squeezing them in. Make sure the brake res cap is off or unscrew it enough to relieve pressure.
See if this helps. You wont need to do everything they do. I try to find videos on what i want to do and watch it 100x's...
Correct. ..but I can't the piston to budge....the pads stay in now but I don't see how the piston is going to go in enough to fit over rotor. I have bled it,tried pushing it in with everything I have.
In the past I have used a disc brake caliper spreader to push caliper pistons back in on other vehicles. If you don't have one you can use a 6" C clamp around the back of the caliper and compress it with an old pad. Do not have to disconnect the brake line. Don't forget to clean and lube your brake slide pins.
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- #28
Looks like I will be going to get a c clamp in the morning, I never in my life...it looks like I need about 1/32 to clear rotors. Hope the c clamp will move piston, nothing else has!!Do you have a c-clamp? It will make your life easier.
EDIT: never mind...
- Thread starter
- #29
Will the piston stay compressed, I do have the top off the reservoir and I pumped the brakes several times as well before starting, as recommend here.
Unscrew the brake fluid reservoir cap.
There's usually no need to mess with the bleeder screw on just a pad change. The piston should compress to just about flush. Use the old thinner pads and C clamp to push it back in. Once compressed the piston will stay put. I don't think I'd pump the brakes before a pad change, maybe not relevant tho.
There's usually no need to mess with the bleeder screw on just a pad change. The piston should compress to just about flush. Use the old thinner pads and C clamp to push it back in. Once compressed the piston will stay put. I don't think I'd pump the brakes before a pad change, maybe not relevant tho.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Per FSM: Loosen the bleeder plug, to relieve pressure. Then piston of caliper will move freely. Tips: Attach hose to bleeder so you can direct fluid into catch can, keeping off pads & rotor. Make sure to clean rotor with a degrease to remove all finger prints, oils or grease.
I don't usually find above necessary, but it will work. I generally just get out my channel locks and squeeze the piston in. I also start the job by relieving pressure from booster pump by pumping peddle 40 times with ignition key off.
Half the time I forget to put in the darn little early warning squeal clips, end-up redoing just to get those little guys in.
Break-in pads by drive 30 mph pressing on brake peddle, but do not come to a stop. Do this two or three time at least.
I don't usually find above necessary, but it will work. I generally just get out my channel locks and squeeze the piston in. I also start the job by relieving pressure from booster pump by pumping peddle 40 times with ignition key off.
Half the time I forget to put in the darn little early warning squeal clips, end-up redoing just to get those little guys in.
Break-in pads by drive 30 mph pressing on brake peddle, but do not come to a stop. Do this two or three time at least.
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- Thread starter
- #32
I pumped brakes, bleed caliper, etc...I haven't seen piston move very much at all. When I had the bleeder open and pushed on piston fluid came out. Grabbing some c clamps in morning!
2001LC
SILVER Star
Shouldn't need c camp, but won't hurt. FSM recommend just using a piece of wood like a hammer handle as leverage (before putting pad cage in). As I said, my channel locks are my go to tool for this job.
Don't pump brakes or turn on ignition key once you've pulled caliper or pads. That is done before starting the job. Once you've completed with all pads install, you can pump, turn on key or bleed if you like.
Let me ask you do you have a little lip on rotor from pad wear at outer edge?
Any grooves in rotor in pad wear area?
If so you should have rotors turned at machine shop. Cost ~$12 per rotor.
I always have turned unless new rotors. My front pad last about 95K & rears 60K miles without pulling, pulsating or squealing.
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If you cannot gain clearance when the bleeder is open that would be a warning sign that something is wrong, as in a frozen piston or slider pin. It could just be bad technique but you shouldn't need a c clamp. The FSM states to open the bleeder on the calipers to protect the master cylinder, as this is the safest way to do it. I have seen this happen many times in the dealership when someone forgets to take the cap off, so at a minimum you need to take the reservoir cap off, but I do release the bleeders on my own cars when doing this work.
- Thread starter
- #35
C clamp did trick...how much torque on caliper bolts?
2001LC
SILVER Star
Rears brake caliper bolts 76ft lbf, front brake caliper bolts 90ft lbf
- Thread starter
- #37
You are talking about the 2 17mm bolts that hold the caliper on,correct?
2001LC
SILVER Star
Not sure of size, but yes two bolts that hold the caliper on.
Edit: Hope I didn't confuse you by listing the front brake caliper also.
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- Thread starter
- #39
No..not at all...everything is back together. ..time for a test drive. .is it bad that I couldn't sleep last night because I couldn'tget my mind off those stupid brakes or stupid me I should say!! Learned a lot. .thanks for all the info.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
I know you're done with this but for the future, using the bleeder to compress the piston is unnecessary and potentially a way to get air in the line if you're not careful. Using an old pad as a surface to press and a c-clamp is the easiest way. You shouldn't even need to open the reservoir, just crank down slowly, takes a minute at most.
