Rear Rotor Replacment (1 Viewer)

[Julian Stead]

I know you're done with this but for the future, using the bleeder to compress the piston is unnecessary and potentially a way to get air in the line if you're not careful. Using an old pad as a surface to press and a c-clamp is the easiest way. You shouldn't even need to open the reservoir, just crank down slowly, takes a minute at most.

Sorry, I have to disagree with this, if yourself or a garage tops off the brake fluid between brake pad changes, then you will need somewhere for the excess fluid to go when pushing the piston back. Using a c clamp will force the fluid out somewhere, its how hydraulics work, the fluid won't compress so something has to give. ABS complicates this more, that is why they advise the bleed nipples to be cracked. It won't add air if you open the nipple, push piston back and then retighten, it would actually remove air if any is present.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

If you're having to add fluid in between regular pad changes, you may have a leak somewhere. There's plenty a fluid to stay above the "min" line. Now, you take it in to Jiffy Lube, of course they're going to top it off so they can say they did and maybe sell you on a brake job.

 

[Julian Stead]

Even if your 100% sure no brake fluid has been added or changed since your last brake pad change, It still isn't advised to push fluid back up through the ABS unit, with the price of these units why take the risk, turning a bleed nipple half a turn takes this risk away. Each to there own though, just thought people should know why it is advised in the FSM to open the bleeders.

 

[2001LC]

I've been squeezing pistons in with channel locks, which does same as C clamp. I've never had to use much force, as it seem to just push out other pistons still installed. But I do release system pressure before starting. Interesting theory on ABS and back pressure I've never considered.

In either case I'd say let the FSM be the final word:

 

[BillZ260]

Need help removeing a rear brake rotor. 4, yes 4 wheel studs broke, and lots of rust. both of the threaded access holes that you use to pop the rotor loose have bolts broke off in them, grrr. You guys got any alternative methods? I'll probably get new rotors so I'm not worried about messing them up. I beat on them, and tried a pry bar but could not get it loose. it's soaking in PB Blaster tonight, and new rotors are on order.

I did the drivers side with no issues.

 

[2001LC]

Pictures would be helpfully to get clear understanding. Use heat from torch (plumbers will work), the spray with PB while hot, let cool and repeat.

 

[BillZ260]

Heat and PB worked, got the rotor off last night. Turns out the threads in those bolt holes were stripped, and I couldn't get a tap in there because they are so shallow, and I thought they had bolts broken off in them, but they didn't.

Got the two longer wheel studs out pretty easy, then got tired, will get to the others after work.

Thanks 2001LC.