Rear Rotor Replacment

[ad27326]

Plan to replace my rear rotors this weekend, just wondering if there are any special tools needed and what Non OEM rotors you might could recommend? Saw some Bosch Quietcast, not sure about those or should I go with the cheapest part store brand I can find. Any tricks or anything to watch out for when doing this job? Thanks!!

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Why not stick with OEM? No special tools, pull the caliper, pull rotor, replace. Rotor can be sticky coming off the e-brake shoes, just hammer your way around the flat spot with a BFH to loosen.

 

[n55luvr]

Make sure your parking brake is off when removing rear rotor.

Also, there is a threaded hole that you can screw a bolt into to help back off the rotor. I used a bolt from one of the front radiator supports and it made taking it off super easy.

 

[ad27326]

Why not stick with OEM? No special tools, pull the caliper, pull rotor, replace. Rotor can be sticky coming off the e-brake shoes, just hammer your way around the flat spot with a BFH to loosen.

I would have to order them and really need to get it done this weekend, I will go back OEM next go around. No local Yota place I want to give my money to! Is there a big advantage to the OEM considering price difference?

 

[ad27326]

Make sure your parking brake is off when removing rear rotor.

Also, there is a threaded hole that you can screw a bolt into to help back off the rotor. I used a bolt from one of the front radiator supports and it made taking it off super easy.

Thanks! What rotor did you use?

 

[n55luvr]

Thanks! What rotor did you use?

I didn't have to replace my rotor. Just had to remove it to bang in new wheel studs cause the knuckle heads at discount tire snapped.

 

[2001LC]

I assume you replacing rotors because they are below limit to have turned.

Take pictures as you go.

Pump brake pedal 40 time with key off to relive booster pump pressure, just as you would when topping-off brake fluid reservoir. This will make spreading pads (compressing piston) easy, during caliper removal to get pads passed lip of rotor. Do one side at a time, that way you'll have a reference side if things get confusing. You may have some trouble placing clip in caliper as you replace with NEW pads. This is where pictures come in hand and/or other side, and remember to put the early warning clips in with pads.

Clean rotors with brake cleaner or a good degreaser before putting on calipers, and don't touch brake pad surface with oily fingers. Use a torque wrench on all bolts as you assemble, including lugs. Not a bad Idea to bleed brakes before putting wheels on, if you do bleed.

Oh and adjust E brake shoes before putting on wheels, by tightening then back off 8 clicks.

Tools: a 3/4" breaker bar is great to have for lugs & caliper bolts, but 1/2" will normally do.

I purchased the premium rotors & pads online for in store pick-up at Advance Auto. By signing up for emails, I got a 20% discount. They looked just the same as OEM.

Tips: Wire brush rust from hub and back of wheel contact points. I rub a little grease on face of hub to rotor contact point and back of wheel where it butts to hub then wipe off without degreasing. This reduces rusting and makes next removal a snap.

Remember that reservoir fluid level is set after relieving booster pressure. If key turned on booster pump will turn on and build pressure as it draws fluid from reservoir. If pads & rotors are worn, the level will be appropriately lower. You'd only need set to max level if all new pads and rotors.

 

[ad27326]

I assume you replacing rotors because they are below limit to have turned.

Take pictures as you go.

Pump brake pedal 40 time with key off to relive booster pump pressure, just as you would when topping-off brake fluid reservoir. This will make spreading pads (compressing piston) easy, during caliper removal to get pads passed lip of rotor. Do one side at a time, that way you'll have a reference side if things get confusing. You may have some trouble placing clip in caliper as you replace with NEW pads. This is where pictures come in hand and/or other side, and remember to put the early warning clips in with pads.

Clean rotors with brake cleaner or a good degreaser before putting on calipers, and don't touch brake pad surface with oily fingers. Use a torque wrench on all bolts as you assemble, including lugs. Not a bad Idea to bleed brakes before putting wheels on, if you do bleed.

Oh and adjust E brake shoes before putting on wheels, by tightening then back of a clicks.

Tools: a 3/4" breaker bar is great to have for lugs & caliper bolts, but 1/2" will normally do.

I purchased the premium rotors & pads online for in store pick-up at Advance Auto. By signing up for emails, I got a 20% discount. They looked just the same as OEM.

Tips: Wire brush rust from hub and back of wheel contact points. I rub a little grease on face of hub to rotor contact point and back of wheel where it butts to hub then wipe off without degreasing. This reduces rusting and makes next removal a snap.

Remember that reservoir fluid level is set after relieving booster pressure. If key turned on booster pump will turn on and build pressure as it draws fluid from reservoir. If pads & rotors are worn, the level will be appropriately lower. You'd only need set to max level if all new pads and rotors.

Thanks 01 LC, I haven't removed wheels yet but can see that they are groved out pretty bad and for the expense and experience i figured I would just replace myself. I do experience the warped rotor feel when braking with my boat in tow. My local guy done my front brakes a few months ago so I know they are good!

 

[2001LC]

It is nice to just replace rather than wait on machine shop to turn, speeds-up the job. But don't throw away old rotors until you check run-out and if in or out of limited (thickness).

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Unless you're going with performance pads and rotors, I'd choose OEM because of longevity. A few reports here of the cheap auto store brands warping in not much time. If you're towing, I'd go for quality over price.

 

[2001LC]

Unless you're going with performance pads and rotors, I'd choose OEM because of longevity. A few reports here of the cheap auto store brands warping in not much time. If you're towing, I'd go for quality over price.

Good advice.

I use Advance Auto premium because Dealer didn't have in stock and they recommend Advance Auto.

 

[ad27326]

Unless you're going with performance pads and rotors, I'd choose OEM because of longevity. A few reports here of the cheap auto store brands warping in not much time. If you're towing, I'd go for quality over price.

True Trunk Monkey! Good point! Recommend a Toyota part dealer?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

@beno, excellent service and prices. Plus, he's easy on the eyes.

 

[bucfl]

Take the cap off the break reservoir. Makes it easier to squeeze Pistons.

 

[ad27326]

@beno, excellent service and prices. Plus, he's easy on the eyes.

PM'd him, thanks!

 

[ad27326]

Take the cap off the break reservoir. Makes it easier to squeeze Pistons.

Thanks!

 

[jamesg]

Trunk Monkey, could you help me with "banging on the flat spots?" I am gonna do mine as well and I didn't know what you meant. Probably obvious after you explain it, thanks

 

[n55luvr]

There is always more than one way to make something work but I'd be careful banging on the rotor. There's a threaded hole there for a reason. All you have to do is screw in a bolt and the rotor will come off by itself. Save the BFH for last resort.

 

[super90]

I always back off on the brake shoes with the screwdriver on the star through the hole in the rotor. Tends to work better especially if they are older and have a big glove in them. Are you replacing the shoes too or just reusing?

 

[Trunk Monkey]

The horizontal surface where the wheel mounts, you can hit/tap that and work your way around, knocks the rotor loose and off. Don't hit the braking/shiny surface. Threading the bolt in is definitely the more appropriate way, but I can never find the right size bolt handy, am too lazy to undo one from elsewhere in the truck, but I know right where my hitting stick is.