Rear Frame Rust (1 Viewer)

[FJRanger]

Well, the 4x4 Lab rear bumper has been on for a bit over a decade. It was put on by the previous owner and the time has come to show it some some love in the form of rust repair and new powdercoat.

After getting the bumper off the 80's frame also needs some rust repair, especially the passenger side. I know there's a lot of scrapping and grinding in my future. However hoping there's no chopping and welding.

What are your thoughts?

Best source for POR15?

 

[Rwhat]

Lot of clean up there. The captured nuts look like they will need to be knocked off and replaced. Probably use some flat bar with new nuts tack welded to it.

last time I took my bumper off to rehab it I coated those areas with new paint and then grease.

That’s more then surface rust so looks like it’s going to be more then grinding and scraping.

 

[Heckraiser]

Looks to me like there is enough meat there to knock of the scale and rust then POR15 and prime without major welding. As @Rwhat mentions, the captured nuts will likely need to be removed and new ones tacked in. One of the captured nuts fell out of my front frame horns and wasn't even rusty.

Colorado roads are definitely getting worse than they were a decade or two ago. I'm thinking its time to start doing an annual fluid film/wool wax job.

 

[Malleus]

I'd get a cup type sandblaster, clean it up, spray it with phosphoric acid and call it a day.
The rust you can't get off with the sandblaster will be taken care of with the Ospho. That area won't rust again.

 

[SteveH]

Use Rustoleum Hammered finish (Home Depot) and save $40 per quart over POR-15.

 

[Heckraiser]

Rustoleum doesn't do squat for rust in my experience. You need a real rust-converter product. POR15 is not the only one, but spray paint is not what you want for that job. Converter then epoxy primer, then paint.

 

[western flyer]

I agree with Heckraiser from my own experience. I use RustBullet for cases like this, but I do not know if it works any better or worse than POR15. RustBullet does entail fewer steps than POR15. Topcoat RustBullet with typical paint.

 

[FJRanger]

All great advice, thanks everyone. Going to U tube to watch some RustBullet application videos. Making a stop at HF in a bit and going to pick up that sandblaster tonight. Any recommendations on the type of media?

 

[Pascoscout]

I used Magnet paints Chassis Saver on my trailer and it's held up great through a few winters. Just another option.

For blast media I think HF sells furnace slag or something like that in large bags. You want something rough in this case not glass beads or walnut shells.

 

[SNLC]

Colorado roads are definitely getting worse than they were a decade or two ago. I'm thinking its time to start doing an annual fluid film/wool wax job.

All across the West they are now using MAG (magnesium Chloride) in liquid form vs salt sand that they used to use. MAG is extremely corrosive, more so than salt even. It is also used to seal dirt/gravel roads. Salt sand only contains 15% salt and is just for making the sand adhere to the ice.

I have done a lot of commercial snow plowing so am familiar.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

All great advice, thanks everyone. Going to U tube to watch some RustBullet application videos. Making a stop at HF in a bit and going to pick up that sandblaster tonight. Any recommendations on the type of media?

Aluminum Oxide.

Cheers