Frame Rail and Spring Tower Rust (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 5, 2025
Threads
3
Messages
15
Location
Pennsylvania
I got a second opinion on my suspension issue today, and found out I had more of a rust problem than I thought! The frame rails have a couple of rust holes, and the left rear coil spring tower is rusted through. I knew about the frame rail holes (and see the one under my bumper in Picture #4 every day) but was told they didn't affect structural integrity. I still want to save it if it doesn't exceed the cost to just sell and get a cleaner 80 series. You can just barely see the spring tower in #5; for the most part, it's pretty clean considering it came from New York

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Sell parts and start with a less crusty one. And I'm from the northeast and not generally put off by rust.
 
The holes through the frame are massive. That's just the visible damage. That would never pass a safety inspection where I live. Fixing/plating is going to be a massive job and doesn't get the less visible corrosion.
 
Whoever told you that wasn't structural damage lied to you. That frame isn't safe to drive on. The rear crossmember holds the entire rear frame togther, and it's not there.

The only way to fix is is to remove the body and weld over it, after the rust is removed.
 
The only way to fix is is to remove the body and weld over it, after the rust is removed.
Or buying a frame from a truck being parted out from a rust free state may be a better option then trying to fix that Swiss cheese frame he has,
 
Check next to your gas tank on the inside of the frame rail. Near the rear body mounts, Check your brake lines that run along the frame rail also. The hidden rust you can’t see has the potential for being much worse. This is why I called it quits on my old 80. I kicked the frame and the hole nearly tripled in size. Never invest in rust.
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Check next to your gas tank on the inside of the frame rail. Near the rear body mounts, Check your brake lines that run along the frame rail also. The hidden rust you can’t see has the potential for being much worse. This is why I called it quits on my old 80. I kicked the frame and the hole nearly tripled in size. Never invest in rust.
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No rust there :confused: The frame rails actually look pretty clean except for the two holes I posted and the missing crossmember. Stupid question but where is the crossmember supposed to be located?
 
Or buying a frame from a truck being parted out from a rust free state may be a better option then trying to fix that Swiss cheese frame he has,
I'm getting a few frame leads on Facebook, including one for $1000. How much will the labor run me?
 
You could get a 4x4 labs bumper or something else that replaces the crossmember. Hopefully the rust is isolated to those spots, they see a lot of salt.
Looks like it to me :confused: Assuming a repair is possible, around how much can I expect to get it welded?
 
Depends how friendly you are with your mechanic or if you can figure out a way to do it yourself. I looked into getting a frame swap, which also includes a drivetrain swap, possible axle swaps if it’s not a rolling chasis. $10k easy. Frame repair is just a bandaid fix for rust which could also cost thousands. Body swap is possible even for a driveway mechanic. My buddy and I did a body swap in his sloped gravel driveway. Took my body off my rusty frame and put it on his clean frame after an accident. His landlord had a cherry picker to help us move the bodies around. Anything is possible, depends how much time effort and money you want to throw at it.
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Depends how friendly you are with your mechanic or if you can figure out a way to do it yourself. I looked into getting a frame swap, which also includes a drivetrain swap, possible axle swaps if it’s not a rolling chasis. $10k easy. Frame repair is just a bandaid fix for rust which could also cost thousands. Body swap is possible even for a driveway mechanic. My buddy and I did a body swap in his sloped gravel driveway. Took my body off my rusty frame and put it on his clean frame after an accident. His landlord had a cherry picker to help us move the bodies around. Anything is possible, depends how much time effort and money you want to throw at it.
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My drivetrain and axles are good AFAIK. Same price for just the frame?
 
If you want to keep your drivetrain and axles, everything needs to get swapped to the new frame. Remove your body from frame, pull entire drivetrain, pull axles, prep new frame to accept axles and drivetrain, put body on. If doing this at a shop they need to dedicate at least one bay/lift for however long the swap takes and they like to keep their bays open to make more money. So everything adds up. New body mounts, hardware to mount the body, it adds up quick. A lot involved with a frame swap and how much while you’re in there work you want to do. I worked out a deal with my mechanic who I’ve known for years, he is very well versed in cruisers and had just complete a frame swap on a 100 series. I was looking at the homie price of 10k to swap frames and the engine that he installed a year earlier. I chose to buy a new rust free 80 for less than that out west and ship it to NY and swap my own engine. With that decision I was able to help my buddy out after he rolled his 80, gave him my body for free and collected a garage full of spare parts if I ever need them. Never invest in rust.
 

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