Rear Control Arms - can you buy just the bushings?

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I did all of mine and they worked great. These are Toyota bushes that are compatible, which is to say they're from a 200 series or GX or something. There is no official part number in the diagrams for the 100 series so this is the only option without going aftermarket or whole new arms. Whether the rubber is slightly different I cannot say, but their dimensions are exact and they work well for me.

Rears Arms:

4870260110 x4 lower
4870260090 x4 upper
4870660060 x2 panhard


Bumping this thread.

I have these P/N's in a spreadsheet of parts I need, and I probably added them 1.5 yrs ago so I dont recall the source. I am finally getting around to buying them.

I was searching to double check that these are plug n play and that people have used them successfully and I wasn't making a mistake if I order them... and I stumbled on this thread.

Anyone else here utilize these P/N's successfully? Looks like @Qtonic successfully used them, but nobody else?
 
Bumping this thread.

I have these P/N's in a spreadsheet of parts I need, and I probably added them 1.5 yrs ago so I dont recall the source. I am finally getting around to buying them.

I was searching to double check that these are plug n play and that people have used them successfully and I wasn't making a mistake if I order them... and I stumbled on this thread.

Anyone else here utilize these P/N's successfully? Looks like @Qtonic successfully used them, but nobody else?

They definitely work. Perfect fit and good quality.
 
@AlpineAccess How are those FEBEST arms holding up? I plan on making the purchase too. Seems like an easy choice when they cost the same as OEM bushing, and don't require any press.
 
I ended up just buying complete arms from Impex Japan, cheaper than bushings after shipping.
 
Anyone ever heard or used these? Two arms for $100 is cheap!

 
@Beau I see Febest and Rocar as 3-5 yr bushings . I see OE bushings as 20 yr bushings. You make choices based on usage.
Totally understand, but your reasoning is totally anecdotal, which is why I was asking for those who have actually used these items. Febest are a little more established and appear to have pretty good reviews across the board.
 
Totally understand, but your reasoning is totally anecdotal, which is why I was asking for those who have actually used these items. Febest are a little more established and appear to have pretty good reviews across the board.
Well more anecdotes for you, but my buddy who owns a shop and specializes in Land Cruiser repairs gets to see the life cycle of many parts also agrees with @hoser.

Personally I went SPC, I didn't want to deal with having the bushings pressed in and out and they are beefier arms, so I didn't have to get them sleeved.
 
@beaas Febest has only been a company since 2008. I'm sure there are a lot of Toyota bushings still used that are older than that company. :)

I could see using aftermarket bushings when the application is fixed, like a differential or steering rack bushing. But with the rear control arms, the bushing is asked to twist constantly. It doesn't even spin.

I can believe there are a lot of positive reviews because they probably fit well and solved their issue for the time being. How many positive reviews are for bushings that are older than 5 years and used in the manner as the rear control arm bushings?

Some more reviews to add to your research. Febest/rocar bushings - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/febest-rocar-bushings.998861/
 
I have SPC lower arms, to be specific. My OEM bushings on the uppers were not twisted or cracked, but the bushing had settled to the rear causing my rear pinion angle to not be where I'd like. From what I saw, the OEM bushing was serviceable, but not keeping correct angles when new lower arms were installed. Maybe the lowers and uppers aging together, and stock geometry play a role in not getting DS vibrations like I experienced after changing the lower arms.

I went with Febest as I was not able to find separate Toyota bushings at the time. Febest was selling bushings separately, but the extra money wasn't worth the energy to press them in. I found the Febest arms themselves to be comparable to OEM based on material thickness, paint, and weld quality. The rubber is also important, the bushings looked like quality parts but I am not a rubber bushing expert. There is not much to these upper arms and - paint on them has held up well.

I figured I would keep an eye out for OEM bushings to be available, but as the Febest are working great and have held up well per the use I've subjected them to, I have had no need to replace them.

They are extremely easy to replace; under a fifteen minute job and the vehicle can stay on the ground. At the time I figured that if they worked out it was great. If not, I'd buy time to get OEM bushings to press in.

I have aftermarket front upper control arms and SPC lower rears so the idea of avoiding anything but OEM isn't a thing for me. The SPC uppers have actually been the worst bushings I've had on control arms; ever.
But they are easy to do. The front lowers were done with OEM - I don't want to do those again anytime soon.
 
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Personally I went SPC, I didn't want to deal with having the bushings pressed in and out and they are beefier arms, so I didn't have to get them sleeved.
This is good info. I thought they were not as stout. I just bananaed both my rear lowers this weekend and was considering them and considering a half DOM sleeve.
 
This is good info. I thought they were not as stout. I just bananaed both my rear lowers this weekend and was considering them and considering a half DOM sleeve.

They are pretty thick, but if you're bashing them the metal techs are a bit thicker even!
 
They are pretty thick, but if you're bashing them the metal techs are a bit thicker even!
TTs are too but I do not need the adjustability option. I ordered a set of SPCs last night. I will consider sleeving them when I get them in my hairy palms - or run them as is and see how they do.

When I take off the OEM ones out of shear curiosity I am going to screw around with the bushings and see just how hard they are to press out.
 
Working on my 04 LX470 Lower rear arms now. The upper arms use 4 x 48702-60090. The old bushings have the part number in the rubber but look like they have a much thicker shell than the new ones. Had to cut out old ones, new ones pressed in no problem.

The lower arms have different bushing front and rear, rear is 48702-60100, front is 48702-60110. The 60100 bushing has a small cutout top and bottom, the 60110 is solid.

I bought 4 x 60110 and am now debating if I should spend the $ to get the correct bushing or just use the 60110 in place of the 60100.
 
Working on my 04 LX470 Lower rear arms now. The upper arms use 4 x 48702-60090. The old bushings have the part number in the rubber but look like they have a much thicker shell than the new ones. Had to cut out old ones, new ones pressed in no problem.

The lower arms have different bushing front and rear, rear is 48702-60100, front is 48702-60110. The 60100 bushing has a small cutout top and bottom, the 60110 is solid.

I bought 4 x 60110 and am now debating if I should spend the $ to get the correct bushing or just use the 60110 in place of the 60100.

Just to confirm - these part numbers were the ones on the bushings you removed (and replaced)?
 
I installed Febest bushings in all 4 trailing arms less than a year ago. I just replaced them with the Superpro bushings this weekend because they were trashed, just junk.

The hardest part was getting the old bushings out. Once that is done you just lube the Superpro bushing up real well and pop them in. Then press the inner sleeve in. They are a whole lot easier to install than the shell type bushing.

The Febest bushings may work out ok for pavement pounders, but dirt washboard roads eat them up.
 

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