Not sure why they don't list them separately. I only figured it out by cross-referencing third party parts where the brand listed their same part for multiple vehicles. By that I determined the Toyota part numbers from the 200 or GX.
Rear Control Arms - can you buy just the bushings? (1 Viewer)
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Not sure why they don't list them separately. I only figured it out by cross-referencing third party parts where the brand listed their same part for multiple vehicles. By that I determined the Toyota part numbers from the 200 or GX.
I suspect that with some digging around between USA, Europe and Global in Toyota parts catalog those bushings will appear on one of the part diagrams.
I had a similar issue with the rebuild kit for the 1HD-FTE starter. When looking at the European/Japan HDJ100 diagrams it appears that the entire starter is not serviceable. When you look at the General (Australia, etc) and one specific trim, suddenly there is a diagram for every bit and piece of the same (P/N) starter.
Wish I saw this a few weeks earlier...
I had a similar issue with the rebuild kit for the 1HD-FTE starter. When looking at the European/Japan HDJ100 diagrams it appears that the entire starter is not serviceable. When you look at the General (Australia, etc) and one specific trim, suddenly there is a diagram for every bit and piece of the same (P/N) starter.
Wish I saw this a few weeks earlier...
I purchased Toyota OEM rear arms off Ebay, from a seller in Dubai. Half the price of locally sourced (including shipping). They arrived yesterday and took me only an hour to replace. Convenient that I didn't even have to lift the rear.
One bushing had self destructed and was completely loose. Other three appear fine. This solved my death roll problem. Previously I replaced all shocks, and rear sway bar links.
As far as pressing the old bushings and sleeves out, I don't think I could get this done. The sleeves are thin and would not respond well to anything but a perfectly sized die.
If anyone needs a set of bars or a single bar with bushings, they are free + shipping.
FYI this all occurred due to a single axle Uhaul trailer, bucking on me about 50 miles unloaded, and less so when loaded (a few hundred miles).
Following this uhaul trip, when the truck was unloaded, it tracked normally in town. At high speeds (70 mph), I got some roll. When I loaded it up for a family road trip (approx. 500#'s-kids & luggage), that's when things got scarey. Immediately parked the truck and started in.
When checking things out, the right sway bar link was loose. The control arm was tight. Must have been locked in place or not completely broken loose. After swapping out the shocks and links (and driving a bit), then the control arm bushing loosened up further, or at least was loose when parked in my garage.
Thanks for sharing. The thin outer shell is a part of what plagued me when I attempted to press the diff bushing. Took a while to find the right socket and delicately hold everything in place to press it and then even when I could, it wouldn't budge.
This makes me want to get after all my rear arms...
Wits end makes the bushing press gizmo for a 100's rear control arms (upper and lower) that is the perfect size. Worked for me with no problems but by all means buy what you will and ignore the work that went into making the search function such a valuable tool.
What capacity press did you use? I hadn't seen those tools until someone earlier mentioned them. I'm tempted...
Not sure on capacity. I would call it a medium sized press that efficiently got them out.
Would you loan/rent the tool? I will eventually need to do the uppers.
Unless you live down the street from them, probably costs more to ship it one way than to just buy one. 190 lbs for an H-frame.
20 Ton H-Frame Floor Shop Press
Amazing deals on this 20Ton H-Frame Shop Press at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
hoser
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Just my experience, I tried to use a HF 10 ton, H-beam press with an exact fit tool and I bent the support plate. The 10T Jack was not the problem. Surely, a higher quality 10T press with a more robust support plate would fair better. If I was doing this job with another, cheap HF press, I'd opt for 20 ton or more.
I had exact same problem doing RTABs for E34 BMW. 12Ton HF press. I then bought 2 strips of 1x4 solid metal - I set them vertical ($20 from local metal supply) and use that with a press. Next thing to give will be whole frame or jack
Will see how this goes on LX bushings..
Any local front end shop will press out the old and press in the new for a very small fee. If you're near Little Rock my friend will do it for a couple good jokes and maybe a six pack of busch lite.
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Febest sells individual rubber bushings for 100-series rear control arms. I pressed 10 of them into my '05 LX several years ago and they are holding up well. Prices are very reasonable. They have many other bushings available including front diff & front control arms.
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I also have a set of rear upper arms if anyone wants them. Original bushings with 225k on them.
Found these and am going with them. I have SLEE lowers so I've already departed from OEM for the rear control arms. Price is right and pre-pressed. My lowers take hits occasionally which is why I went with the sturdier arm, but the uppers are well protected. I have been pleased with the quality of the Febest products I have used over the years so will see how these hold up.
Rear Lateral Control Rod FEBEST 0125-LC100R1 OEM 48710-60080
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If you are bending things with a 12 ton press try this. Put quite a bit of pressure on the part with the press then whack the press ram with a hammer. The vibration will loosen the part. Sometimes there is a loud pop and things go flying so hold on.
These arms came yesterday and I installed them today. Honestly no complaints, fit and finish was great, welds looked good, bushings look good. Time will tell how well they hold up. Pricing was amazing and packaging was great too. I received them in 5 days.
Install was no big deal except for the Slee heavy coils spacing doesn't line up well with the axle side arm bolt sliding out. Jacked up the rear until the axle was hanging and the spacing worked out no problem.
They have a line bracket on both sides in the same spot unlike the stock arms, so I did cut it off on the passenger side and hit it with some paint. It added one minute to the project.
It's such a simple job that I have no issue if I end up having to do it again in a few years considering the price differential on them.
Some close up detail on the bushings. The factory one below was on the driver's side and axle mount. The passenger side overall was far more cracked and damaged with the bushing on the frame side being the worst (it is around 5 inches from the muffler with a very small heat shield)
