Real time radiator bolt question???

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by photogod, Jul 8, 2005.

  1. photogod

    photogod

    Messages:
    1,579
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    May 21, 2004
    Location:
    MN physically, MI spiritually
    Can someone that has done this answer this question. The two bolts that are front facing on each side of the rad right next to and behind the headlamp housings are:

    A) Captive and the bolts are removed from the rear.
    B) Not captive and the nuts are removed from the front.

    If from the front it seems like the headlamp housings need removal.

    A) True
    B) False

    Any help appreciated. :confused:
     
  2. cruiserman

    cruiserman

    Messages:
    1,861
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2003
    I don't remember if they are captive or not (I think they aren't), but you don't have to remove the headlights.
     
  3. tucker74

    tucker74 Moderator

    Messages:
    4,481
    Likes Received:
    599
    Joined:
    May 12, 2003
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    I believe you remove the nuts from the front, didn't have to remove the headlights but a long extension with a wobble was required IIRC.

    Tucker
     
  4. photogod

    photogod

    Messages:
    1,579
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    May 21, 2004
    Location:
    MN physically, MI spiritually
    Thanks guys. Just got back from the hardware with the wobbley and a step stool so I can get over the ARB!
     
  5. IdahoDoug

    IdahoDoug

    Messages:
    8,864
    Likes Received:
    269
    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2003
    Photo -

    Search, ya wanker!! I posted this after getting the tip from another here on the forum. Remove the bolts holding the a/c condensor in place. Now you can gently pry it left or right to provide enough room to get that nut off with a simple deep socket. Also, use vice grips to hold the metal disc on the other end from spinning.

    DougM
     
  6. yellowchaosfj80

    yellowchaosfj80

    Messages:
    224
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    May 21, 2005
    Location:
    vancouver canada
    Its easyer to take the front grill off and you can get at the tow nuts .. but unbolt the cooler rad .. soo you can slide it side to side.and us an extension on your 12mm driver M2S
     
  7. IdahoDoug

    IdahoDoug

    Messages:
    8,864
    Likes Received:
    269
    Joined:
    Aug 9, 2003
    Echo in here? He'll need a deep socket as the bolt protrudes out through the nut farther than any of my standard 12mm sockets. Wobble won't fix that, though I've duct taped the normal sockets to an extension when the socket was not fully seated to provide another mm or two of usable depth.

    Check for my old post for some tips on the rad shroud as well. No-breaky....

    DougM
     
  8. photogod

    photogod

    Messages:
    1,579
    Likes Received:
    8
    Joined:
    May 21, 2004
    Location:
    MN physically, MI spiritually
    Thanks for the input. Learned the lessons of the extended sockets and moving the cooler on my own as well as having to take the headlamp assys, grill, battery tray, plastic blower tube and assorted EGR hoses, steering damper and splash shield off just to make things easier. Idaho doug I searched a bit but the time it takes to read all the non associated drivel I could have had the job done. Real time short concise questions need short concise answers. I had a lot to do this weekend. Radiator, Rad flush and fill, hoses, brakes on all four, extended lines, bleed brake system, LPV extension, oil change, tranny pan screen clean and beer and cigars. Thanks for the help everyone! And shame on Toyota for putting plastic in a radiator!
     
  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.