Real time help: stranded in grand junction, CO (5 Viewers)

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If electronic dizzy, then coil is in it (top) most likely. You’ll have to get the specs on it to test it.
 
However, if coil is seperate, here’s a basic means of testing such
1713713899418.png
 
middlecalf said:
If electronic dizzy, then coil is in it (top) most likely. You’ll have to get the specs on it to test it.
Click to expand...
It is a factory Toyota dizzy, the coil is on the passenger fender (inner).

Your previous post said your first indication was a dead tach?!?

My tach has been dead, I assumed the painters hooked it up wrong. And then I never chased it down.
During the adventures this week I caught the tach at ~2500 RPM, and one time at 3000 RPM.
On the drive home I opted to disconnect the tach from the coil with the thought that maybe a bad tach could screw with the coil.

Maybe the other way around?!?

Thanks!
 
My Speedhut tach needed replacement (it was still under warranty), but I honestly can’t say if it caused the death of the coil or the other way around, or the events were completely unrelated. I replaced the coil first (city racer coil), and rig ran fine. Then I replaced the tach with another of the same, so far all is well. The bad tach was still functioning to some extent but providing erroneous data, nothing logical RPM-wise in what it was reporting. Speedhut just noted it was a bad board.
 
middlecalf said:
My Speedhut tach needed replacement (it was still under warranty), but I honestly can’t say if it caused the death of the coil or the other way around, or the events were completely unrelated. I replaced the coil first (city racer coil), and rig ran fine. Then I replaced the tach with another of the same, so far all is well. The bad tach was still functioning to some extent but providing erroneous data, nothing logical RPM-wise in what it was reporting. Speedhut just noted it was a bad board.
Click to expand...
Got it.
So we can't prove correlation.
It could just be a coincidence.

What were other symptoms of your coil failure?
 
The coil can fail with turn to turn shorts or it can just open up. It will change as it heats up. You can get a good spark testing it with an open plug but the spark will be weak when under compression. My old JD 140 with the 1 cylinder Kohler goes thru a coil about every 10 years, due to vibration I think since it is mounted to the engine. It will stumble like it is running out of gas when they fail. The first time I spent a few hours troubleshooting the fuel system before I changed the coil with a spare. It had good spark with the plug resting on the head.
 
Engineer8000 said:
The coil can fail with turn to turn shorts or it can just open up. It will change as it heats up. You can get a good spark testing it with an open plug but the spark will be weak when under compression. My old JD 140 with the 1 cylinder Kohler goes thru a coil about every 10 years, due to vibration I think since it is mounted to the engine. It will stumble like it is running out of gas when they fail. The first time I spent a few hours troubleshooting the fuel system before I changed the coil with a spare. It had good spark with the plug resting on the head.
Click to expand...
I sure do appreciate your help.

I am going to test my coil as per the FSM when it warms up outside, but so far this idea is checking a lot of boxes for me. Especially since our fuel system work did not yield the desired results. Not to say that was a contributing factor!

Thanks.

Is that a Maine Coon kitty cat in your avatar? I sure do miss mine...
 
Engineer8000 said:
The coil can fail with turn to turn shorts or it can just open up. It will change as it heats up. You can get a good spark testing it with an open plug but the spark will be weak when under compression. My old JD 140 with the 1 cylinder Kohler goes thru a coil about every 10 years, due to vibration I think since it is mounted to the engine. It will stumble like it is running out of gas when they fail. The first time I spent a few hours troubleshooting the fuel system before I changed the coil with a spare. It had good spark with the plug resting on the head.
Click to expand...
PS: I love my 3FE in my 55 - great choice!
 
middlecalf said:
My Speedhut tach needed replacement (it was still under warranty), but I honestly can’t say if it caused the death of the coil or the other way around, or the events were completely unrelated. I replaced the coil first (city racer coil), and rig ran fine. Then I replaced the tach with another of the same, so far all is well. The bad tach was still functioning to some extent but providing erroneous data, nothing logical RPM-wise in what it was reporting. Speedhut just noted it was a bad board.
Click to expand...
I am eyeing this tach as I don't need one that goes up to 5k RPM!

www.summitracing.com

AutoMeter 2890 AutoMeter Performance Series Mini Tachometers | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - AutoMeter Performance Series Mini Tachometers with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Gauges at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com
 
Hope that fixes it for you. Yes that is Mickey, one our 3 Maine Coon mutts, she was a rescue kitty with severe eye infections. All better now.
 
Engineer8000 said:
Hope that fixes it for you. Yes that is Mickey, one our 3 Maine Coon mutts, she was a rescue kitty with severe eye infections. All better now.
Click to expand...
You have 3 Main Coons?!? That is living the dream! They are great kitties...

My wife tolerates the Land Cruisers, and we are up to 3 dogs. I am not sure if I could add multiple Maine Coons to the mix!
 
PabloCruise said:
What were other symptoms of your coil failure?
Click to expand...
Rough running, stalling but eventually wouldn’t start (cranked, no fire). It had maybe 2 ohms resistance on primary (bounced around) and was completely open (no resistance) on secondary.

This is the tach I have, I too didn’t need anything above 4k 😂. Funny, I paid $125 for it brand new from them four years ago. 2-1/16" Tachometer 4K RPM Shift-light - https://speedhut.com/gauge-applications/revolution-racing-performance/led-lighting/performance-led-tachometer/2-1-16-tachometer-4k-rpm-shift-light/

@Engineer8000 interesting, my coil is mounted to the motor (‘64 production). I wondered if this might have been a contributing factor with its failure with the engine vibration. One thing I noticed with it (it was a third party Toyota replacement coil from a Toyota forklift company) is that it was pretty hot after running, it was that way from the gitgo. The city racer replacement gets just a little warm after running so not sure what was up with the first one, if anything. These are internal resistor coils for this early rig.
 
middlecalf said:
Rough running, stalling but eventually wouldn’t start (cranked, no fire). It had maybe 2 ohms resistance on primary (bounced around) and was completely open (no resistance) on secondary.

This is the tach I have, I too didn’t need anything above 4k 😂. Funny, I paid $125 for it brand new from them four years ago. 2-1/16" Tachometer 4K RPM Shift-light - https://speedhut.com/gauge-applications/revolution-racing-performance/led-lighting/performance-led-tachometer/2-1-16-tachometer-4k-rpm-shift-light/

@Engineer8000 interesting, my coil is mounted to the motor (‘64 production). I wondered if this might have been a contributing factor with its failure with the engine vibration. One thing I noticed with it (it was a third party Toyota replacement coil from a Toyota forklift company) is that it was pretty hot after running, it was that way from the gitgo. The city racer replacement gets just a little warm after running so not sure what was up with the first one, if anything. These are internal resistor coils for this early rig.
Click to expand...
Jinkees, I never thought to feel how hot my coil was throughout all my tribulations.
 
I got the 2-1/16” tach to fit in an existing PO hole in the dash. I don’t think it came with the bracket like the Autometer one you posted. I have an Autometer mounted on my column in my SBC’d ‘65 40.
 
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