Radiator hose odd shape

[VTOLC100]

I picked up my truck this afternoon after having the dealership do the timing belt, water pump, and pulley. When I opened the hood, I noticed the radiator hose was almost "vacuumed" together. I was able to squeeze it, and it was mostly empty. I started the truck later, and it's the same shape. I will contact the dealer in the morning, but I am wondering if anyone has come across this issue and what could be causing it. The radiator is full of coolant, and the reservoir is full.

Thanks for any insight!

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

Might be worth burping/“bleeding” the system, with the little radiator cap mounted funnel thing. At least that’d be my first step.

Sidenote: Is it contacting the bottom edge of the engine cover?

 

[VTOLC100]

Might be worth burping/“bleeding” the system, with the little radiator cap mounted funnel thing. At least that’d be my first step.

Sidenote: Is it contacting the bottom edge of the engine cover?

No, the hose wasn't contacting the cover when full circle, but I will check it again when it returns to its shape. I had to look up the radiator cap-mounted funnel thing- and found this on YouTube- Bleeding air with spill-free funnel.

I will try that, but I will also let the shop know, as they should have checked it.

Thanks

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

No, the hose wasn't contacting the cover when full circle, but I will check it again when it returns to its shape. I had to look up the radiator cap-mounted funnel thing- and found this on YouTube- Bleeding air with spill-free funnel.

I will try that, but I will also let the shop know, as they should have checked it.

Thanks

That’s the one. Sorry, knew what I was picturing, didn’t know the term lol.

Truck isn’t overheating though? Negative pressure there also kinda looks like a blockage or something in the line trying to pull a vacuum.

Regardless, good call having a talk with your shop. I’d think that would have been evident as long as they didn’t run the last bolt in and immediately close the hood.

 

[VTOLC100]

No - It was sitting there for a few days waiting for a seatbelt actuator that ultimately came in the wrong color, so I just sent the original to Safety Restore today to fix it and save a lot of $$.

I feel better having the timing belt done, though, as I don't have any PO history.
Almost at the 175k mark!

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

No - It was sitting there for a few days waiting for a seatbelt actuator that ultimately came in the wrong color, so I just sent the original to Safety Restore today to fix it and save a lot of $$.

I feel better having the timing belt done, though, as I don't have any PO history.
Almost at the 175k mark!
View attachment 3530849

All set for another 150k! Enjoy it man. Keep us posted

 

[VTOLC100]

All set for another 150k! Enjoy it man. Keep us posted

Let's hope so- I will post the outcome and shop response!

 

[Jack90210]

It appears that they used a venturi-vacuum fill tool when they replaced the coolant, which allows for a more complete fill but sucks in the hoses under the vacuum like you're seeing there. My guess is that it'll press back out in a few days once it's subjected to heat and pressure again.

 

[Fairgame]

Looks like the pipe is twisted too far to the left

 

[2001LC]

It's normal for system to build a vacuum during cool down. This negative (vacuum) pressure can collapse hoses, that are past useful life or cheap aftermarket.

I "suppose", It is possible for a bad radiator cap. To result in to much negative pressure during cool down. Something, I've not personally seen!

If hose hitting engine cover. It's either on backwards (has long and short lengths from bend) or aftermarket cut wrong.

No need for fancy bleeder funnel or vacuum system to fill and bleed coolant system.
Hers's how I purge air from the 2UZ coolant system.

1. Top (fill) radiator to the neck (as much as you can get in) under the cap. Then replace cap.
2. Fill reservoir (expansion tank), to full line.
3. Squeeze upper radiator hose a few times, forcing fluid into system.
4. Remove cap and top.
5. Bring engine up to operating temp.
6. Turn cabin heaters front and rear to max. Air should be blowing hot from both. If not excessive air in system or air bubble in a heater core.
7. Run engine at 2,000 RPM. Driving around is best. Note: If cabin heaters not blowing hot, brake hard a few times. This helps release air bubbles in heater cores.
8. **Cool down engine for 8 hours, vehicle level or even better with front end of vehicle higher than rear. This insuring radiator cap is high point, to collect air under it.
9. Check coolant level under radiator cap, at coolest time of morning. Before sun heats the air, is a must. This ensures, coolant has not begun to expansion due to heat expansion.
10. Top radiator, to very top of goose neck and replace cap. Add coolant to reservoir also.
11. Repeat steps 4-8, if any coolant was added.
12. Keep repeating daily until radiator will not take any more coolant, cabin heaters runs very hot and reservoir holds proper level for OAT (outside air temperature)

Notes:
Coolant is very susceptible to temperature expansion & contraction. OAT (Outside air temp) of -10F reservoir is filled to low line, OAT of 110 F to full line, OAT ~50 F mid-way point.

The system must be sealed and have a good working radiator cap. For coolant expansion and contraction too work properly. (I use only OEM) Never open cap while system cooling, or system will suck air.

To purge air, the thermostat must be installed with jiggle valve on top.

To reaches proper operating temp thermostat must be in excellent working condition. (I use only OEM).

Before engine warm up. Very cold mornings, say like OAT of 10F, low would be normal. At 90f OAT, fill to full line.

 

[Mike NXP]

No - It was sitting there for a few days waiting for a seatbelt actuator that ultimately came in the wrong color, so I just sent the original to Safety Restore today to fix it and save a lot of $$.

I feel better having the timing belt done, though, as I don't have any PO history.
Almost at the 175k mark!
View attachment 3530849

I wouldn't feel better at all seeing as the tech who worked on the vehicle didn't properly fill and bleed the system, which I believe is the easiest part of the repair.

I had a similar experience at toyota, they don't take the time to let em' sit, and check, top off, cool down, check again, etc. Definitely take it back and kindly ask them to fix it and call you when it's done right.

 

[nissanh]

As 2001 LC said, the hose is installed backwards, it should not touch the "beauty cover". OEM toyota hose have two strips of colors, white and yellow. The yellow end goes towards the engine and white is to the radiator end. If a Toyota tech did it, then call Toyota and get it fixed right or ask them to reimburse money to get it fixed forom another shop. It is shame a tech is unaware of these simple things.

 

[2001LC]

Installing upper rad hose backward, results in rub on engine cover. This may result in wear spot damaging, after many years. Shop can simply reverse hose, by draining a 1/2 gallon coolant. Best would be with a new OEM hose. Very likely lower hose also in need of replacement.

When I see a Toyota Timing Belt sticker, I've mixed feelings.

• First is a good feeling, since done with OEM parts and likely by a Toyota trained mechanic that's likely experienced.
• Second is a bad feeling, as a few things are usually "Not Done".

"Not done", because service manager didn't write-it-up on work order. Additionally, flat rate mechanics, must take ever short-cut they can. They can do two TB services in a day, whereas I take 3 days for one TB.
Here's a sample of what I mean by, Not Done:

• Most take no special care to clean, like plugging holes form debris falling in while cleaning seal surfaces.
• They do not take any special care, to mitigate pits on block under water pump gasket.
• They do not usually drain coolant from block and flush.
• They do not typically replace #1 or #2 TTB pulleys, tensioner, fan bracket, serp belt tensioner, serp idler pulley, spark plugs & coil boots/seals. So I like to check actual parts list, to see if any of these replaced. If not I'll often re-due the TB service. IMHO all these need a very close look, at minimum at each 90K mile PM
• They tend to use the cheaper FIPG 103 oil, rather than very expensive FIPG 1282B coolant. In below video, that is not 1282B being used.
• They do not use a torque wrench. Often just use, power tools to install. It fast, but not best practice.

I say this is one of the better TB services, but the typical flat rate TB service. Which will get you by.

timing belt service 4.7L - Google Search

I'll add, I do not feel as so many feel these need replacing, in a TB service:

• Alternator. Why if no issues. Not a big deal to replace, when needed.
• Replace crank and cam seals. Why if not leaking. About the only ones I every replaced, are non factory. Meaning someone replace before me going in, and they're leaking.

 

[VTOLC100]

I had already drained and flushed the block and filled the system but didnt’t burp it before I brought it for the timing belt replacement so that could be part of it. I did the spark plugs, coil boots, steering rack, front end, front wheel bearings, oil, diff and transfer case fluids, new PCV valve, heather T’s, thermostat (with giggle up) and several vacuum hoses and the fuel filter all OEM over the last several week but I didn’t want to take on the timing belt.

I didn’t run the truck long before I brought it to the dealer and it’s only 6 miles from my house, but I didn't notice the pipe before.

The shop said they stand by their work and to bring it back and they would fix it, and that it could be a bad cap not letting air leave the system (it has to go back for inspection anyway). I did the burping with the filler funnel ($32 HF) and ran it as @2001LC and @GOLIGHTLY said and got the air out and put on a new aftermarket cap from O’Reilly that I will replace with OEM. The hose is now back to shape. It’s not rubbing the housing but maybe 3/8” away but it will check for marks.( not at truck now but don’t recall seeing any)

I had them do the waterpump, idler pulley, and the said the fan bracket need replacement but others were ok.

Only fluid I didn't tackle yet is the Transmission fluid. Could anyone point me to a good source for that process. I couldn’t find a good one here or a good full service video for the 100 online.

Thanks for all the input.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

I had already drained and flushed the block and filled the system but didnt’t burp it before I brought it for the timing belt replacement so that could be part of it. I did the spark plugs, coil boots, steering rack, front end, front wheel bearings, oil, diff and transfer case fluids, new PCV valve, heather T’s, thermostat (with giggle up) and several vacuum hoses and the fuel filter all OEM over the last several week but I didn’t want to take on the timing belt.

I didn’t run the truck long before I brought it to the dealer and it’s only 6 miles from my house, but I didn't notice the pipe before.

The shop said they stand by their work and to bring it back and they would fix it, and that it could be a bad cap not letting air leave the system (it has to go back for inspection anyway). I did the burping with the filler funnel ($32 HF) and ran it as @2001LC and @GOLIGHTLY said and got the air out and put on a new aftermarket cap from O’Reilly that I will replace with OEM. The hose is now back to shape. It’s not rubbing the housing but maybe 3/8” away but it will check for marks.( not at truck now but don’t recall seeing any)

I had them do the waterpump, idler pulley, and the said the fan bracket need replacement but others were ok.

Only fluid I didn't tackle yet is the Transmission fluid. Could anyone point me to a good source for that process. I couldn’t find a good one here or a good full service video for the 100 online.

Thanks for all the input.

View attachment 3531919

Glad that issue is averted. Don’t have a link handy, I’m in the car, but trans is easy (tedious, but low stress). Good luck man!

 

[nissanh]

Are you trying to drain and fill the trans? If so, clean the drain plug area, have a bucket with graduations so you can measure the amount drained, drain fluid, tighten the bolt: [It's a 14 mm so just tight it but not TOO tight. The torque spec given in manual is too much and can strip the threads. I usually hand tight them, snug and little bit more. USe a 3/8 socket and short handle wrench].

Fill new oil to match the drained amount via the dip stick. I heard Vavoline red auto trans fluid works fine. It says it works with about 95% vehicles and Dextron 2 and 3.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

Are you trying to drain and fill the trans? If so, clean the drain plug area, have a bucket with graduations so you can measure the amount drained, drain fluid, tighten the bolt: [It's a 14 mm so just tight it but not TOO tight. The torque spec given in manual is too much and can strip the threads. I usually hand tight them, snug and little bit more. USe a 3/8 socket and short handle wrench].

Fill new oil to match the drained amount via the dip stick. I heard Vavoline red auto trans fluid works fine. It says it works with about 95% vehicles and Dextron 2 and 3.

Probably overkill, bu I do this every oil change, just to keep the integrity of the fluid in good shape between actual fluid exchanges. Just for the love of god keep the trans fluid and motor oil straight lol.

 

[Jack90210]

Probably overkill, bu I do this every oil change, just to keep the integrity of the fluid in good shape between actual fluid exchanges. Just for the love of god keep the trans fluid and motor oil straight lol.

Same: it's easy, I'm already under the vehicle with tools and drain pans, and the fluid will never get neglected. Just like running a quart of brake fluid through the system every winter when I swap the winter tires on, it adds like 15 minutes to the job and keeps fresh fluid in a complex (and expensive) system.

 

[VTOLC100]

So there's no need to pull the pan then- just drain and fill with a few quarts and repeat with oil changes- sounds good.

When and why would you drop the pan and clean or replace the filter in there like this guy above on YouTube?

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

So there's no need to pull the pan then- just drain and fill with a few quarts and repeat with oil changes- sounds good.View attachment 3534195
When and why would you drop the pan and clean or replace the filter in there like this guy above on YouTube?

I’ve seen a LOT of folks say they don’t find really any evidence of crud in that filter. That being said, I’m the type who will wind up doing it, just to do it and know it’s done. From what I understand, with a clean workspace, it’s not as daunting of a job as staring at the bottom of the trans will make it appear.

Worth noting, it’s probably worth doing a full fluid exchange before doing that filter, and sacrificing the additional couple quarts of wasted fresh fluid, so that the first fluid going through that new filter is nice and clean, not immediately running dirty fluid through a new filter.

Others will probably chime in with the “by the book” advice, just my two cents.