Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert (2 Viewers)

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2001LC

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I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added radiator cap and thermostat to job, as best practice.

Got me to thinking about the radiators I've been replacing. All have debit built up on lower third.
This one hand some extra grasses along with general clogging on lower third.
Radiator Clog (3).JPG

Over the years/miles debit builds up in condenser and radiator fins. Bulk in lower third. It's hard to inspect for this with skid plate on. But with skid off it easily seen between condenser and radiator.
Radiator Clog (1).JPG

If ever in deep water especially flood water or standing water. Large debit like Styrofoam, grasses, etc. can float into space and become trapped. Any clog will reduce cooling effectiveness of radiator and A/C.
Radiator Clog (2).JPG


Replacing Radaitor is one way to take care of. But cleaning is so much cheaper and faster. I've added to my list of PM as of today.

We can discuss ways to clean if anyone would like to share how or ask HOW TO!

This was just some of final rinse after days and hours of cleaning.
 
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Excellent subject.

Important to keep both the A/C condenser and Radiator clean. Depending on how you use your vehicle and the environment, it might not be something you have to do often...but as your pictures show, physical blockage can accumulate.

Besides physical blockage (debris or bent fins) it also helps to use a product that will remove the 'film' that forms on the radiator fins (oil, road grime,etc) ...as this affects heat transfer as well.

It isn't much of a problem on my D/D vehicles....but other equipment (ranch vehicles and tractors) require cleaning several times a year.
 
I had a 1998 Toyota Tacoma that I had to clean its radiator. There was no major mud or debris in it but, the previous owner lived on dirt road. I think over the period of about 15 years, the fine dust had built up and clogged the fins.

I rinsed all I could with a water hose, then spray it three times over a period of about a hour with a AC coil cleaner and then rinsed it again with a water hose. It worked perfected after that.

If I remember correctly, I bought the AC coil cleaner from a local home AC supply shop.
 
In addition to cleaning radiator fins, I found a substantial amount of crud stuck in the AC condenser. With the radiator removed, I applied garden hose water pressure to the backside of the condenser and out came all sorts of colorful debris. At 300k miles this was never done and had to be blocking airflow to the radiator. As a bonus, the AC has never blown colder than it does now!
 
With skid plate off I use a HP washer, first from front. Than with a 90 degree angle attachment I squirt up from below, then I come in from inside engine bay squirting water in from between fan blades towards the front. My HP washer has soap dispenser that I'll spray on a soap w/de-greaser after first rinse. Then come back with final rinse.

Here's the tricky part;

If engine is started right after washing. The fan will suck out lots of water. Great for cleaning out fins, but not so good on drive belt bearings (idler & tensioner). I inspect drive belt bearings first. If they're bad I don't worry about them, as once that water gets in them past the seals, they will sing/chirp. I just come back and replace after washing radiator and engine.

If bearings are good. I pull off before washing engine and radiators (condenser, oil and engine radiators). Which means I'll not get added benefit of starting engine drawing out water, while fins still wet. I just let drip dry. Since I like running engine after washing, I don't let sit to drip dry more than 48 hours at most. It only needs a few hour on summer day.

You will be surprised how much will rinse out.
 
If I remember correctly, I bought the AC coil cleaner from a local home AC supply shop.

^^^^

These can work very well. It's just up to each person to assess what is needed to clean their Condenser/Radiator/Evaporator.

In my case...(daily drivers) we have swarms of insects certain times of the year (Love-Bugs and June-Bugs). So I use a solvent based product to 'soak/soften' them before spraying the unit off.

Other's might benefit from an alkaline based cleaner, or if just a gentle cleaning is needed...a detergent based cleaner or no cleaner at all....just spray with water.

I do find that spraying outward (from engine side toward grill) is necessary to achieve a thorough cleaning. Spraying only from the grill (through the condenser and to the front side of the radiator) doesn't do a very good job.
 
Before someone goes nuts with the latest alert, be aware a pressure washer can bend fins if you're not careful.

Amen...!

Be sure you don't spray from an angle...and don't use too much pressure. A garden hose with a nozzle is plenty. Volume (not pressure) is what is needed.
 
Before someone goes nuts with the latest alert, be aware a pressure washer can bend fins if you're not careful.
Good points TM and @flintknapper .

Although so far, my HP washer has not bent them. It's rated at 1,800 PSI, but head used varies that. I'm about 1,500 from 0 angle head and my 90 degree seem/feel lower PSI. I keep it dead on for most part and angled at some points.

275.JPG
 
Good points TM and @flintknapper .

Although so far, my HP washer has not bent them. It's rated at 1,800 PSI, but head used varies that. I'm about 1,500 from 0 angle head and my 90 degree seem/feel lower PSI. I keep it dead on for most part and angled at some points.

View attachment 2037368


1500-1700 psi is just right for most Car Washing needs. Still requires a little brushing/sponging to remove grime but wont take off loose/chipped paint, bend radiator fins, etc....

My Pressure washer is 3100 psi...but I can regulate it down for car washing.

Generac Pwash2.jpg
 
Haha, I don't even have fins in my radiator anymore:D Corroded out years ago..
 
Nice tool @medtro.

I've attachment with 90 degree for getting inside between fan blades and up under between radiator and condenser, undercarriage and wheel wells. If it had a little smaller head, would be nicer!

download.png
 
I added a short video to OP in this thread. Of final rise of engine and radiator. I find it take coming back time and time again to get and keep clean. Average first time, over two days, is 3 hours.

Guys every 100 series with factory radiator I look at, needs cleaning.

I'm dropping ECT from 8F-16F, just cleaning the three radiator fins. Trans temp, engine temp and better AC.
 
Here's the latest radiator cleaning job. 06LC w/236K miles from CA. First cleaning! Going to take a few.

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I ordered today- will let you know if its worthy.
 

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