Radiator Genie
Clean your clogged radiator, radiator cleaning wand, radiator genie saves radiators,radiatorgenie.com
How did it work out for you? I need one for my 100 and my John Deere 5055e
Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 2001LC
- Start date
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Ok I bought these- jury is still out on long term use but I did get some benefit. I was able to remove a considerable amount of additional dirt and grime from my previous effort with standard garden spray nozzle . I used the water one to back flush the radiator and condenser fins. Pretty effective with garden hose pressure, but gets challenging to wrangle the wand and garden hose into tight places where you actually want it. Maybe using one of those flex hoses/expanding/contracting type would make it easier to manage working angles.
Working angles: the wand is pretty long so you have to be careful how you fish it up between the condenser and radiator so that you don't bend or scrape fins in the process. Ive considered cutting down one wand for tight places. Really the majority of dirt, dust & mud build up is in the lower half of the radiator and condenser so a shorter version might suffice.
The air wand is pretty effective at blowing off the water with compressed air from engine bay and radiator- but it moves a lot of air volume so if you dont have a 15- 20gal+ compressor, you won't have enough pressure and volume to do an effective job. Pretty important to make sure you get as much water out of the radiator fins and condenser before you start the engine- since the fan will suck all that water through both and blow it all over the serpentine belt, and front of the engine- with any residual dirt & debris (there's always some left).
Working angles: the wand is pretty long so you have to be careful how you fish it up between the condenser and radiator so that you don't bend or scrape fins in the process. Ive considered cutting down one wand for tight places. Really the majority of dirt, dust & mud build up is in the lower half of the radiator and condenser so a shorter version might suffice.
The air wand is pretty effective at blowing off the water with compressed air from engine bay and radiator- but it moves a lot of air volume so if you dont have a 15- 20gal+ compressor, you won't have enough pressure and volume to do an effective job. Pretty important to make sure you get as much water out of the radiator fins and condenser before you start the engine- since the fan will suck all that water through both and blow it all over the serpentine belt, and front of the engine- with any residual dirt & debris (there's always some left).
- Thread starter
- #23
I've not purchase those!
I'm still just using my power washer. I've 1,200, 1,600 and 3,000 PSI heads for the power washer. I did some testing on a used 200 series radiator, I'd pulled out and swap in a new the other day. With the 3,000PSI head on, which I do not use on radiators. I did see minor folding of fins. But was only when a put at 45 degree angle and within 1 inch. With 1,600 PSi head or less, I saw no bending/damage of fins.
One can very easily use a garden hose with a typical nozzle. I use pressure washer, as it uses much less water and I'm always washing more than jet radiator. But as @abuck99 did, I can't get between the radiators with garden hose or PS washers nozzles I have..
Whatever used, just do it often. Here's a clients 2011LC (Graybird), that we swapped-out the radiator a few weeks ago. It was one of the cleanest vehicle I've seen, when I purchased it, at 78K miles. I did not clean radiators back then. PO put 78K HWY miles between Aspen and Salt lake city. Now at 104K as DD in the city. Client (new owner) wanted radiator swap to the newer Toyota design. 200 series have a weak spot on top of rad, that cracks. So most have or will replace by 120K/10yr. So I had this one to test on.
This 200 series radiator is not terribly clogged, compared to what I'm seeing in the older 100 series.
I'm still just using my power washer. I've 1,200, 1,600 and 3,000 PSI heads for the power washer. I did some testing on a used 200 series radiator, I'd pulled out and swap in a new the other day. With the 3,000PSI head on, which I do not use on radiators. I did see minor folding of fins. But was only when a put at 45 degree angle and within 1 inch. With 1,600 PSi head or less, I saw no bending/damage of fins.
One can very easily use a garden hose with a typical nozzle. I use pressure washer, as it uses much less water and I'm always washing more than jet radiator. But as @abuck99 did, I can't get between the radiators with garden hose or PS washers nozzles I have..
Whatever used, just do it often. Here's a clients 2011LC (Graybird), that we swapped-out the radiator a few weeks ago. It was one of the cleanest vehicle I've seen, when I purchased it, at 78K miles. I did not clean radiators back then. PO put 78K HWY miles between Aspen and Salt lake city. Now at 104K as DD in the city. Client (new owner) wanted radiator swap to the newer Toyota design. 200 series have a weak spot on top of rad, that cracks. So most have or will replace by 120K/10yr. So I had this one to test on.
This 200 series radiator is not terribly clogged, compared to what I'm seeing in the older 100 series.
Yep, gotta clean the fins good, and remove rodent(s) as well
I always appreciate the effort you put into sharing your knowledge and your findings, @2001LC -- thank you. Wish you were closer to me, I'd love to have you go through my 100.
Is it possible that a clogged radiator contributes to shorter plastic-tank radiator life? Seems that heat in excess of design tolerances would more rapidly age (or cause to turn brown, etc.) the tanks, not to mention other heat-related problems.
Is it possible that a clogged radiator contributes to shorter plastic-tank radiator life? Seems that heat in excess of design tolerances would more rapidly age (or cause to turn brown, etc.) the tanks, not to mention other heat-related problems.
TexLexican
SILVER Star
Is it advisable to rinse the inside of the radiator out with tap water while removed or is there some kind of solution that can be added?
BullElk
SILVER Star
I have good results with vinegar and water.
Hi friends,
If anyone uses the "Sun Joe SPX3000 2030 Max PSI" or similar pressured washer, which spray tip angle (at the minimum) is safe for not damaging the fins? (The provided ones are 0, 15deg, 25deg and 40deg).
If anyone uses the "Sun Joe SPX3000 2030 Max PSI" or similar pressured washer, which spray tip angle (at the minimum) is safe for not damaging the fins? (The provided ones are 0, 15deg, 25deg and 40deg).
TexLexican
SILVER Star
I used the garden hose sprayer. Any more than that I’d be worried about damaging the fins.
- Thread starter
- #31
Garden hose is safest for sure.
I've removed a Radiator and set on curb. Then power washer with ~1,800 to 2,500PSI Fins do fine as long as spray dead on straight. If sprays say at 45-degree angle to fins. The fins get some minor defection (bend). But upon closer inspection. The find defection, is so minor, the air flow is not restricted.
Consider drive 80 MPH in the rain, no real damage.
Bugs, birds & sand do a lot more bending of fins, to point of closing passage.
In time all Radiator will need replacing. Until then keep them clean anyway that works for you. Since clogged fins, will result in engine running hot. Too hot and we lose coolant.
I've removed a Radiator and set on curb. Then power washer with ~1,800 to 2,500PSI Fins do fine as long as spray dead on straight. If sprays say at 45-degree angle to fins. The fins get some minor defection (bend). But upon closer inspection. The find defection, is so minor, the air flow is not restricted.
Consider drive 80 MPH in the rain, no real damage.
Bugs, birds & sand do a lot more bending of fins, to point of closing passage.
In time all Radiator will need replacing. Until then keep them clean anyway that works for you. Since clogged fins, will result in engine running hot. Too hot and we lose coolant.
^^^^^
Agree for a thorough cleaning and inspection, best to remove and treat it.
I use my 80 series on the ranch quite a bit....so the radiator gets pretty dirty over time and just spraying it (in vehicle) doesn't remove much.
When taken out...you have the opportunity to straighten up any bent fins, spray down both sides with A/C coil cleaner, let that soak before hosing it down. The fins get a fine coating of dirt that won't just wash off with the larger debris, so use a cleaner.
Before and after pics of the last time I did my 80 series Radiator:
- Thread starter
- #33
Although it is hands-down the best to remove to clean. I'm not recommending everyone pull their radiators to clean.
Just keeping clean, even with just a garden hose without removing it. Is so very important, and effective enough in most cases. The trick is to keep at it. Especially after driving through anything that clogged fins. i.e. grasses, cottonwood, mud, dirt roads, bug storm, flood waters, etc.
Just keeping clean, even with just a garden hose without removing it. Is so very important, and effective enough in most cases. The trick is to keep at it. Especially after driving through anything that clogged fins. i.e. grasses, cottonwood, mud, dirt roads, bug storm, flood waters, etc.
^^^^
'Love Bugs' (in Texas).
You'll be pulling the radiator for these.
If you don't get them off before they 'dry'..... they become an almost permanent fixture.
This is the best 90-degree cleaning wand that I have found. At $250 it's not quite priced for homeowner use (we use it at work for cleaning "stacked" refrigeration coils that need to be split for cleaning) but it's very convenient to be able to one's cleaning solution of choice (like a professional coil cleaner or a foaming detergent etc.) and have at it.
As an aside and FWIW, I do suspect that the reason that some radiators turn brown so much more quickly than others has to do with how well they shed heat (i.e. whether they are clogged or not). The extra capacity built into the cooling system allows these vehicles to operate just fine with substantially clogged radiator fins, so the operator generally has no idea that they radiator is running hotter than it might otherwise. (This also explains the "I put in a Mishimoto and my motor runs so much cooler" scenarios, ha.)
SPEEDCLEAN Condenser Needle, 36 in Long 90° Fan Spray
As an aside and FWIW, I do suspect that the reason that some radiators turn brown so much more quickly than others has to do with how well they shed heat (i.e. whether they are clogged or not). The extra capacity built into the cooling system allows these vehicles to operate just fine with substantially clogged radiator fins, so the operator generally has no idea that they radiator is running hotter than it might otherwise. (This also explains the "I put in a Mishimoto and my motor runs so much cooler" scenarios, ha.)
SPEEDCLEAN Condenser Needle, 36 in Long 90° Fan Spray
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I do a lot of bushwork and have to cover the radiator with fine gauze to catch grass seeds etc but still have to remove the radiator and immerse it in water for absolute cleaning. Someone suggested running a diluted vinegar solution through at this stage which seems to be a good idea.
