Quick No-Crank, No-Start Question (1 Viewer)

[cumminsBase]

Hello,
This is a 2000 LX.
New battery two months ago.
This morning she did not crank, thus did not start.
So I cleaned the battery terminals really good, then tightened them.
Next the battery voltage threw 12.48ish.
No crank.

She still lights up the dashboard, yet when you go crank she doesn't spin the starter motor.
So I hit the starter from the side with a long metal extension... and she did a small "hiccup crank" try, and did not start.
I didn't hit the starter again. Feels like hitting misbehaving kids.

I have spent half of this morning reading about a dozen or more threads on no-start.
What do you suggest I do next?

If the starter is shot, could I get a rebuild kit?
Previous to this morning she would crank over fast and powerful (not furious).

Historic Notes: She had done this in the past two months about six to eight times.
She wouldn't crank. Yet if I took the key out, and tried again, off it went and started right up.


What should the next steps be?
If it is to rebuild/replace the starter, I thought once I'm in there change a couple of parts:

• heater tees
• injector o-rings (they have upper and lower o-rings, right?)
• intake manifold gasket??
• fuel pressure regulator (I'm in there anyway)

On another note, I would rather rebuild this starter instead of replacing it with chinesesium.
What are your thoughts?

Thank you for reading through.
I know it's the 1,722nd thread on no-start issues in ih8mud.

 

[nitteo]

first check if its the immobilizer? (insert key and see if the security light goes away)

 

[cumminsBase]

first check if its the immobilizer? (insert key and see if the security light goes away)

Just checked.
Immobilizer light goes off immediately when I insert the key.

This time, the engine cranked over about one revolution and stopped.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Jump it, battery voltage may be just low enough that it can't crank. Has happened more than once here.

 

[cumminsBase]

Jump it, battery voltage may be just low enough that it can't crank. Has happened more than once here.

Alright.
So I was going to jump-start her.
Before doing that I gave it another shot and she started right up.
Strong fast cranking.
Turned off... start again fine.
Off... start again fine.

Put a voltmeter on the battery and it's throwing 13.44ish

What... could be going on?

EDIT: 10 minutes after starting the voltmeter is reading 13.01

It has been going down steadily.

EDIT #2:
10 minutes later, the voltage stabilized at 13.00-13.05ish
Is this normal?

 

[trdcorolla]

Voltage going down is normal. 12.2 to 12.6 is considered 60-100 percent. But it's not all about volts, it can have good voltage but low cca's.

 

[cumminsBase]

I'm thinking I should order a starter rebuild kit.

Anybody got a preference?

 

[Dwight S]

Check for corrosion at the battery. Especially around the positive connection between the battery and the small fuse block. I had corrosion on the underside, where it screwed together. Just a slight wiggle was enough to cause mischief and no start situations.

 

[cumminsBase]

Check for corrosion at the battery. Especially around the positive connection between the battery and the small fuse block. I had corrosion on the underside, where it screwed together. Just a slight wiggle was enough to cause mischief and no start situations.

I am going to try that.
I did clean super good both terminals, yet did not clean that junction on the positive connection between battery and the small fuse block. Will clean that.

 

[Natchez]

What did you end up finding?

 

[cumminsBase]

What did you end up finding?

I haven't used her all this week... so I didn't clean up that third pole (the positive side screw-base).

When I did use the truck yessterday, she started fine.
So at the moment, I just threw an adjustable wrench and a small wire-brush into the trunk.
If she no-starts again, then I'll clean her on the spot and find out if it works or not.

I still kind of like getting a mechanical problem on the road.
Will update when that happens!

 

[2001LC]

1) Battery post and clamp can build oxidation on them. This can inhibit the current input and output. It will act like bad battery or alternator. Cleaning posts and clamps then all seems good and happens again. To prevent the oxidation build up, grease the battery post and clamps after cleaning.

2) Cranking and than not cranking, cranking after tapping on starter. These are signs of start contacts and plunger going bad.

With the 98-02 rebuilding is a good option. Contact and plunger ~$30. You may also want front possible rear bearings and brushes.

The Denso rebuild is next option. Toyota no longer sell new OEM (Denso) only rebuilt. I'd not us aftermarket.

Best starter for the money today?

I pulled my starter over the weekend PITA. I was planning on rebuilding myself, but have decided to just get a rebuilt. In calling around I understand there are different brands on the market. Edited: Rebuild myself. Which one is best for the money, considering the PITA job to replace would be...

forum.ih8mud.com

Procedure for replacing 100 series(98 and up) starter contacts

Also feel any spots you may have bent/kinked. If feels firm go with it. If feels like smashed or broken then best to replace now.

forum.ih8mud.com

Replace fuel injector (FI) seals are nice touch, especially lower. But not supper big deal in most 4.7L if nor disturbed. The real icing on the cake if doing these seals and have FI clean, tested and rebuilt.

When to Clean or Replace fuel injectors

Please post your experiences and thoughts on the subject. I’ve been considering cleaning or even replacing all 8 fuel injectors, is this wasting time and money. I understand keeping fuel injector clean by adding a can of additive to the gas tank, now & then, is a good practice. This keeps them...

forum.ih8mud.com

Great time to re-torque head cover bolts and check or replace spark plugs.

Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert!

TICK TICK TICK POP POP POP is a ticking time bomb, often mistaken as exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak leak. ALERT, ALERT, ALERT: Spark plugs are working themselves loose. "Walking Out" Then blowing out of head, taking their female threads of head with them! Very damaging! You think TICK...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[cumminsBase]

1) Battery post and clamp can build oxidation on them. This can inhibit the current input and output. It will act like bad battery or alternator. Cleaning posts and clamps then all seems good and happens again. To prevent the oxidation build up, grease the battery post and clamps after cleaning.

2) Cranking and than not cranking, cranking after tapping on starter. These are signs of start contacts and plunger going bad.

View attachment 2035288

View attachment 2035289

With the 98-02 rebuilding is a good option. Contact and plunger ~$30. You may also want front possible rear bearings and brushes.
View attachment 2035295
The Denso rebuild is next option. Toyota no longer sell new OEM (Denso) only rebuilt. I'd not us aftermarket.

Best starter for the money today?

I pulled my starter over the weekend PITA. I was planning on rebuilding myself, but have decided to just get a rebuilt. In calling around I understand there are different brands on the market. Edited: Rebuild myself. Which one is best for the money, considering the PITA job to replace would be...

forum.ih8mud.com

Procedure for replacing 100 series(98 and up) starter contacts

Also feel any spots you may have bent/kinked. If feels firm go with it. If feels like smashed or broken then best to replace now.

forum.ih8mud.com

Replace fuel injector (FI) seals are nice touch, especially lower. But not supper big deal in most 4.7L if nor disturbed. The real icing on the cake if doing these seals and have FI clean, tested and rebuilt.

When to Clean or Replace fuel injectors

Please post your experiences and thoughts on the subject. I’ve been considering cleaning or even replacing all 8 fuel injectors, is this wasting time and money. I understand keeping fuel injector clean by adding a can of additive to the gas tank, now & then, is a good practice. This keeps them...

forum.ih8mud.com

Great time to re-torque head cover bolts and check or replace spark plugs.

Ticking time bomb TICK TICK TICK: Spark plugs Alert Alert Alert!

TICK TICK TICK POP POP POP is a ticking time bomb, often mistaken as exhaust manifold crack or gasket leak leak. ALERT, ALERT, ALERT: Spark plugs are working themselves loose. "Walking Out" Then blowing out of head, taking their female threads of head with them! Very damaging! You think TICK...

forum.ih8mud.com

Wowza!!
Super happy to have your feedback!
I love working on cars, yet I have never greased the terminals.
Beginner Question: the grease "installation" goes OVER the terminals?
So I clean the terminals, install them, and put grease over them?

Another question: any preffered grease?
I know this is a mini "best oil" discussion (never ending on the internet!)... yet: Any specific grease? Or regular plain red grease?

Aight, and final starter question:
My door-frame sticker shows a manufacturing date of 03/00

Which are the part numbers? The ones in your posted photos?
I *think* I read that 2000 was a "switch over" year for the Landcruiser.
Any thoughts on which are the part numbers?
From this thread, I have:

Starter Contacts for 2003-2007

These are the parts numbers I have: Kit 1 28226-54412 Kit 2 28226-72010 Plunger 28235-54380 Gasket for Switch Cover 28175-54380 However, according to the parts sites and diagrams I'm seeing, these parts are only for 98-2002. Looks like from 2003+ there's a different starter and there's...

forum.ih8mud.com

For Model Year 1998.01-2000.03:
Kit 1 28226-54412 (1998.01-2000.03)
Kit 2 28226-72010 (1990.01-2000.03)
Plunger 28235-54380 (1993.08-2002.08)

For Model Year 2000.03-2002.08:
28226-50070 (2000.03-2002.08)
28226-50080 (2000.03-2002.08)
28235-54380 (1993.08-2002.08)

 

[2001LC]

Wowza!!
Super happy to have your feedback!
I love working on cars, yet I have never greased the terminals.
Beginner Question: the grease "installation" goes OVER the terminals?
So I clean the terminals, install them, and put grease over them?

Another question: any preffered grease?
I know this is a mini "best oil" discussion (never ending on the internet!)... yet: Any specific grease? Or regular plain red grease?

Aight, and final starter question:
My door-frame sticker shows a manufacturing date of 03/00

Which are the part numbers? The ones in your posted photos?
I *think* I read that 2000 was a "switch over" year for the Landcruiser.
Any thoughts on which are the part numbers?
From this thread, I have:

Starter Contacts for 2003-2007

These are the parts numbers I have: Kit 1 28226-54412 Kit 2 28226-72010 Plunger 28235-54380 Gasket for Switch Cover 28175-54380 However, according to the parts sites and diagrams I'm seeing, these parts are only for 98-2002. Looks like from 2003+ there's a different starter and there's...

forum.ih8mud.com

For Model Year 1998.01-2000.03:
Kit 1 28226-54412 (1998.01-2000.03)
Kit 2 28226-72010 (1990.01-2000.03)
Plunger 28235-54380 (1993.08-2002.08)

For Model Year 2000.03-2002.08:
28226-50070 (2000.03-2002.08)
28226-50080 (2000.03-2002.08)
28235-54380 (1993.08-2002.08)

After cleaning battery post, I grease them. I've been using 'White lithium grease' for ages.

If you've and 03. Then that year Toyota came out with auto crank feature. For those starters it best to get a rebuilt Denso starter off Amazon. Cost the same as buying just the magnetic clutch.

 

[cumminsBase]

I ended up replacing the starter with an AutoZone remanufactured.

Will update how it performs in the future.

Also, after lots of thought, used regular plain red-grease on the battery terminals.

 

[blatant]

Added your link to. 100 series cranks but won't turn over / start

 

[LockedNLoaded]

Any updates on this?

 

[fooldall1]

Check for corrosion at the battery. Especially around the positive connection between the battery and the small fuse block. I had corrosion on the underside, where it screwed together. Just a slight wiggle was enough to cause mischief and no start situations.

This same exact thing happened to me, just the opening and closing of the hood was enough to jar the terminal, though it was tight- the terminal itself was corroded away into paper-thin metal- at the post connection. When I replaced the terminal, the corrosion had spread all the way into the wire jacket upon closer inspection.