100 series cranks but won't turn over / start (2 Viewers)

[blatant]

I just had this problem tonight, 1st time, ever. 2001 lc. 205k. Wouldn't start but cranked strong as could be. Tried it a couple time and it started fine and good to go. Really stunk though. Meant awful situation being stuck!

So I've searched and read all the threads I could find.

In an effort to aggregate all the relevant threads and hopefully help someone research this in the future, I've compiled a list of what I could find searching

However after reading thru all of them and then some (80's tech. not included below) There doesn't seem like there is solution nailed down.


Is there a definitive answer yet?


What I've done so far with my limited technical know how:

-Replace the fuel filter (done a mth ago prior to the problem, as preventative / ongoing base line)
-replaced the efi fuse (see pics) looked rough but i'm not sure how a fuse should look, i would think "cleaner" than that.
-tested battery, test good
-run good gas always (whatever good means really, chevron/shell, at times costco)
- reviewed remote key fob / opened-cleaned, seemed very well intact. tested with non remote master as well. started fine.

*** No dash lights "indicating" a problem and no codes of any kind shown when checked ***

2002 100 crank won't start
01 Land Cruiser - Turns over but won't start?
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2000-lx-470-cranks-but-will-not-fire.690124/ -Fuse(s)

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Help!! I'm Irate!! Ignition Trouble...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fix-for-immobilizer-issue.758984/ **** ( solid info in here!)

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100 WONT start :(
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----
1998 LC Key replacement new key issue - programming steps

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Programming a Transponder Key for 99 TLC 16+pages

Little disappointed cutting out while driving
built relay for immobilizer / fuel injection non start pictures **

LC does not start then starts after about an hour after no cranking.
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99 LX470 - crank and think it is going to catch, but no start? Nov 2015


Quick No-Crank, No-Start Question | IH8MUD Forum

Quick No-Crank, No-Start Question

Hello, This is a 2000 LX. New battery two months ago. This morning she did not crank, thus did not start. So I cleaned the battery terminals really good, then tightened them. Next the battery voltage threw 12.48ish. No crank. She still lights up the dashboard, yet when you go crank she doesn't...

forum.ih8mud.com

**** this one here is a goodie and should NOT be over looked **** fix for immobilizer issue? <----------------------

EFI 20 fuse condition, old vs new just taken:

 

[Ermagerd]

Not trying to be mean, but your post with the picture of two fuses tells me you don't know how to troubleshoot. You need to understand that there is not a universal fix-all for if a vehicle has extended crank/ no start symptoms. I think you should take it to a shop if it gets worse. If you want to learn how to troubleshoot, the first thing you need to get a fuel pressure gauge on it.

 

[blatant]

**** SEE POST 51 ****

********************************************************
********************************************************
bump for update ----

I finally had the no start, become an issue after 30k since the first post.

I fixed it with this:

EFI Relay Bypass Kit (Immobilizer Fix) for UZJ100/LX470


My immobilizer fix

 

[duggy]

Not trying to be mean, but your post with the picture of two fuses tells me you don't know how to troubleshoot. You need to understand that there is not a universal fix-all for if a vehicle has extended crank/ no start symptoms. I think you should take it to a shop if it gets worse. If you want to learn how to troubleshoot, the first thing you need to get a fuel pressure gauge on it.

Not sure how the picture of the two fuses shows that he doesn't know how to troubleshoot. I think he's troubleshooting just fine, and attempting to find a resolution to an issue he is having.

I will agree with you that there is no silver bullet and that the no-start condition has a similar symptom, but can have varying root causes.

I had this same issue on my 1998 and it turned out to be the crank position sensor wire that was chewed up from a botched timing belt job. The mechanic did not run the wire in the correct channel and the serpentine belt ate through the loom which caused the no-start condition.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

You said it cranked and wouldn't start, but then did but smelled - gas smell, what smell? You said it started fine with a non-master remote key, did it show the same signs (cranking, not starting, then starting) or just turn over. Was this a one time thing and it will start fine now or does it do this every time?

 

[blatant]

Duggy, thanks, read your entire thread no-start-condition.796192/
listed above. Immediately went to scope out that wire best i could.

Trunk Monkey, poor choice of wording, fixed above. Meant stunk, like a horrible situation to be stranded.

When i got home i got the non remote master, inserted, immobilizer light went off immediately and it fired right up. Drove round the block, shut it off and tried the remote master (normal use key) again, immobilizer went off upon insertion and it started right up.

edit: figured i'd try it now this morning, started right up as it should. Wandered the block then back in the garage. Waited a couple minutes and tried again. Fired up like it should.


This starting thing seems near and dear ( or will be ) Thanks everyone for taking the time to contribute, see all links as an example of great experience and insight. Hopefully this continues to help us!

 

[Ermagerd]

Not sure how the picture of the two fuses shows that he doesn't know how to troubleshoot. I think he's troubleshooting just fine, and attempting to find a resolution to an issue he is having.

I will agree with you that there is no silver bullet and that the no-start condition has a similar symptom, but can have varying root causes.

I had this same issue on my 1998 and it turned out to be the crank position sensor wire that was chewed up from a botched timing belt job. The mechanic did not run the wire in the correct channel and the serpentine belt ate through the loom which caused the no-start condition.

Yes you have to start somewhere. The fact that the LC started at all tells the problem is not with the fuse itself. DC mini (and regular) ato fuses do not get weak without blowing like a fusible link might. Yes it could be a CPS, ecu, fuel pressure bleeddown, wiring problem,etc. We don't know any conditions surrounding his problem, so I offered the first least intrusive thing that any good auto tech without a scantool would do.

 

[blatant]

ermagerd, thank you for your input.

 

[El Cid]

Appreciate the aggregation of threads here. I am undergoing the same issue here.

Mine was turning over with lots of power, but wouldn't spark and ignite. Alternator was new and both batteries are in good shape.
I've ordered a new EFI relay, which should arrive Thursday.

Here's what I experienced: In my plan to slowly replace anything that's aged, I replaced most of the kick box and front fuses. I did not touch the group of relays. Then I couldn't start the vehicle. It turns out the new EFI fuse(not the relay) had already burned out. That's odd. Leads me to believe there is some variation in the current going through.

So I replaced the EFI fuse(20A) and off I went. Then it died on a busy street and wouldn't start. To add insult to injury, there were multiple Rovers in the near vicinity. The brand took a hit that day.

So I got it back to the homestead and toyed with it a bit. Opened the gas cap, and got under the vehicle and kicked what I believed to be the fuel pump. And lo and behold it started. So my belief is that it''s either the EFI relay or the fuel pump, but the fact that EFI fuse burnt, I'm' prone to believe it's just the relay. If it starts on Tuesday when that's replaced we'll know for sure.

 

[El Cid]

Not trying to be mean, but your post with the picture of two fuses tells me you don't know how to troubleshoot. You need to understand that there is not a universal fix-all for if a vehicle has extended crank/ no start symptoms. I think you should take it to a shop if it gets worse. If you want to learn how to troubleshoot, the first thing you need to get a fuel pressure gauge on it.

By the way, there may have been other things he didn't notice that are tell tale symptoms. I have a gas smell too, but I didn't throw any codes.

Simply put, this is a bit of a square problem where you could misdiagnose an EFI relay problem by thinking it''s the fuel pump.

 

[RobRed]

I put forth the EFI relay worn idea in another thread since some were replacing a fuse for that - however if there is a fuel smell I would change that to an EVAP canister inspection. When the truck cranks but doesn't fire can you go to the gas cap and relieve pressure - then fire it up?

 

[El Cid]

I can't say if that was the difference maker completely, but I did remove the gas cap as a matter of trying everything. It's starting now without having to do that, but when I first started it, the gas cap was out..

In my situation there is also the matter of the fact it died while sitting at a light.

But I appreciate you pointing that out, I am going to take a look at the EVAP canister as a matter of precaution.

 

[PADDO]

I've been following these crank but no start threads for a while and have noted that the issue seems more prevalent in pre 03s with 20A EFI fuses, my 03 has a 25A EFI fuse..... just wondering if 20A is marginally underrated for this application and Mr T slid in a "fix" with a newer MY?

 

[RobRed]

Paddo if that difference was in rating then the 20A would be a blown fuse situation. I think the fuse replacement is masking a something else.

 

[PADDO]

Agreed it's difficult to know what's going on and I'd be surprised if there was not multiple issues causing these problems. I just find it interesting that pre '03s seem to have this problem and more than once we've read "replaced the EFI fuse and it then started". As an electrician+electrical fitter/mechanic+EE I've seen lots of weird and whacky, unexplainable things (including seemingly good fuses that were actually defective). What else is different in the EFI cct post '03 that warranted upping the fuse to 25A I wonder?

 

[RobRed]

That circuit is pretty simple - the fuse feeds the EFI relay.

 

[96crooser]

That circuit is pretty simple - the fuse feeds the EFI relay.

Your conversation with PADDO has helped me rethink this. I"m on of the guys from the other posts. My 02 LC started this a few months ago. After having the best mechanic in my area check it he found nothing wrong. I found the threads about the engine emmobilizer, and replacing the 20 amp EFI fuse, first I replaced it with a 30 amp fuse until I purchased more 20 amp fuses. The 30 worked with no problems, which I had forgotten about until just now. I then put in a new 20 amp fuse and shortly thereafter I started to have problems again. So I jumped to the next stage and made a jumper wire and have been trouble free for over a Month. The other guy has been trouble free for over two years. And you say the 03 LC calls for a 25 amp fuse, I find that very interesting indeed.

 

[PADDO]

Yes, this is my point, '03s (LXs definitely) have 25A EFI fuses. Is it a coincidence that this issue seems to manifest itself in vehicles fitted with 20A fuses? It begs the question what, if anything, else is different in the EFI cct pre and post '03 - apart from the 25A fuse. I only have an EWD for '04s so I can't do a line by line MY cct comparison in an attempt to shed some light on this issue.

 

[El Cid]

Interesting you mention that. I replaced my 20A with a 25a when it cut out completely. That doesn't mean it was the cause, but I did try that thinking the same thing...

 

[RobRed]

someone should put a meter inline and check the amp draw on the circuit - this might help the conversation.