Quick 40 questions..

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Sep 29, 2008
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I found a 40 for 2 grand with a chev 350 hooked up to an sm420. Are there any cons to this setup? It seems like a solid deal, if it turns out the body is as nice as he says it is. The one thing i'm concerned about is that it doesn't have power steering, and i've read the install for that is just crazy hard. Does anyone run their 40 with no power steering? If so, how big are your tires and how annoying is it? Thanks all.
 
I found a 40 for 2 grand with a chev 350 hooked up to an sm420. Are there any cons to this setup? It seems like a solid deal, if it turns out the body is as nice as he says it is. The one thing i'm concerned about is that it doesn't have power steering, and i've read the install for that is just crazy hard. Does anyone run their 40 with no power steering? If so, how big are your tires and how annoying is it? Thanks all.

Adding Toyota minitruck / hilux power steering is super easy IMHO. Saginaw, not so much unless you have a welder. If the truck is solid 2k does not sound bad at all. Plenty of us made due with manual steering for years, even wheeling. That said, once you go power steering you will wonder what took you so long. Most people consider it one of the best mods they have done to their 40.
 
Ran mine with 33's without PS for along time, then did the mini power steering conversion. It was easy, 2k for a solid cruiser is a good price, look over the body real good, there is a reason its only 2k.


GL :beer:
 
Thats what i'm thinking. The ad says, 'my loss your gain..' but it still just seems to good to be true, and you know what they say about that. I know to check under any rubber mats that may be on the floorboards/in the back, wheel wells, frame... am I missing any trouble spots for rust??

Also, Minitruck =... like 75-89 Toy P/U? Sorry, I'm a real newb..
 
I think the mini-truck can come from a 85 or older, if I remember correctly (with the solid front axle). I drive a plow truck with 31's and no power steering. Quite an arm workout - this conversion is in my very-near-future plans - I have the kit, just need to carve some time out to throw it in....
 
A good body is very important almost all could have small amount rust.Repairs lots of time and money.In central California I have found good tubs for $165.00 to $400.00 with very little rust.
 
Pictures of tubs
P1020084.webp
P1020085.webp
P1020086.webp
 
So, those are good tubs? An acceptable amount of rust i take it?
 
Aha... It all comes together. Engine and tranny are not installed. Also, he said it rusted tailgate so they cut a square channel out of it and fixed it and added Bondo.. Now, I know bondo is bad, but I have no idea why... Anyone care to explain?
 
Not sure where you are but by East Coast standards those are amazingly rust free tubs.

Well right now I'm in korea, but I'll be in the Phoenix/Salt lake area. I've been trying to find the right 40 or 60 for so long.. I have a great friend stateside who will co-ordinate the purchase for me in either UT, NV, ID, or AZ. But I don't know, I might just wait till I get back. I'm sick of getting my hopes up only to find out all the bad crap about these cruisers, or have them bought out from under me.
 
Aha... It all comes together. Engine and tranny are not installed. Also, he said it rusted tailgate so they cut a square channel out of it and fixed it and added Bondo.. Now, I know bondo is bad, but I have no idea why... Anyone care to explain?

There is nothing inherently evil about Bondo. They use a little body filler on all those high dollar restorations you see on TV. When it is bad is when it is globed on directly over rust or other body hacks to hide them instead of repairing it right.
 
Well right now I'm in korea, but I'll be in the Phoenix/Salt lake area. I've been trying to find the right 40 or 60 for so long.. I have a great friend stateside who will co-ordinate the purchase for me in either UT, NV, ID, or AZ. But I don't know, I might just wait till I get back. I'm sick of getting my hopes up only to find out all the bad crap about these cruisers, or have them bought out from under me.

Wait until you get back. There are plenty of 40s for sale, no need to be in a rush to buy something. If the economy keeps getting worse I am sure there will be more for sale. It sounds like you should do more research before you buy anyway. Spend a few weeks reading threads on here and you will know what to look for once you get back in the US.
 
Thats what will probably happen. Hope you guys don't mind me poking around and not owning a TLC. Thanks for the patience.
 
Coming from another newbie who bought without researching parts availability much, if you want to find parts somewhat easily, get a later model FJ. The parts for the earlier ones seem to be discontinued or difficult to find/get. There seem to be a lot more parts for the late 70s models. Dont get me wrong, you can still find them, even used, but it is not as easy. Good luck.
 
If you do pull the trigger on the one you are talking about here, the uninstalled drivetrain may be a blessing rather than a curse. I have seen more hack-job V8 installs done than I care to remember. Getting the truck w/o drivetrain will allow you to do the install correctly.

I have driven my FJ40 on 35's w/o PS (but I wouldnt suggest it), I've driven my FJ55 on 33's w/o PS as a daily driver.

Would I keep them without PS? No way. I did Scout conversions on both. Best mod ever.

Hodag
 
I wheel without powersteering - it can be done :flipoff2:
 
I wheel without powersteering - it can be done :flipoff2:

But remember Claudia A) is German, B) has arms the size of a average man's thighs, and C) can make a grown man weep with merely an icy stare.

Don't let her example sway you from power steering, after all you are only mortal.
 
Claudia is now sharpening knives as I type:D
 

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