That's how we found the carb and manifold gasket leaks.
Putting the Mojo Back in Bad Mojo
- Thread starter Bad Mojo
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That's how we found the carb and manifold gasket leaks.
I believe the fuel level in the bowl is 1/2 to 7/8 full with engine idling.
I also used carb cleaner to isolate a vacuum leak. I first used the cardboard test to see if I had a leak as I did not want to spary carb cleaner all over the place. After all, it is flammable.
DanS HJ-45
SILVER Star
A vacuum problem will be worse with the throttle at idle than full open. Fact is, a full open throttle should hide any vacuum problems at all.
The losing power after working well sounds to me like a fuel filter (or a clog in the fuel system one way or the other).
Dan
The losing power after working well sounds to me like a fuel filter (or a clog in the fuel system one way or the other).
Dan
1911
chupacabra
I agree; the running only at very slow speed and lack of acceleration sounds very like a clogged fuel filter / constricted fuel to me.
- Thread starter
- #146
I swapped on a new fuel filter and that didn't really help at all. I can blow air through the old one no problem. When the fuel came out there was a couple really small pieces of crude in the filter, but I don't think it is enough to cause problems. 
I am currently running a clear fuel filter so I can see any crude build up. Once I get this fixed I will install the regular one. I also pulled a spark plug to take a look at it to see what it could tell me. It told me I wasn't reaching my operating temperature. Not a surprise! It was number 3. Spark Plugs
My next plan of action to pull the fuel lines and blow them out with air. I am going to give that a shot tonight. Also I am going to pull the carb one more time to make sure I am not missing something. Do I need to be checking certain areas?
I have been slowly understanding my smog equipment, but I feel like I am missing something. I have the air rail gone/plugged, air pump gone, and the EGR plugged, but I feel like I still have a lot of vacuum line everywhere. Can I take out the VCV on the front of the block, VSV on the drivers wheel well, and the vac surge tank? What about the EGR?
Thanks for the help.
I am currently running a clear fuel filter so I can see any crude build up. Once I get this fixed I will install the regular one. I also pulled a spark plug to take a look at it to see what it could tell me. It told me I wasn't reaching my operating temperature. Not a surprise! It was number 3. Spark Plugs My next plan of action to pull the fuel lines and blow them out with air. I am going to give that a shot tonight. Also I am going to pull the carb one more time to make sure I am not missing something. Do I need to be checking certain areas?
I have been slowly understanding my smog equipment, but I feel like I am missing something. I have the air rail gone/plugged, air pump gone, and the EGR plugged, but I feel like I still have a lot of vacuum line everywhere. Can I take out the VCV on the front of the block, VSV on the drivers wheel well, and the vac surge tank? What about the EGR?
Thanks for the help.
Thinking in a different direction
I once had a car years ago with very similar symptoms. Of course I focused on fuel delivery as the most obvious cause. Even a prof mechanic spent hours working through the fuel system with no joy. Finally somewhere in the back of my mind I rememberede that the ig coil can produce similar symptoms when they go bad. Swapped in a new coil and all was good.
Just a thought.
I once had a car years ago with very similar symptoms. Of course I focused on fuel delivery as the most obvious cause. Even a prof mechanic spent hours working through the fuel system with no joy. Finally somewhere in the back of my mind I rememberede that the ig coil can produce similar symptoms when they go bad. Swapped in a new coil and all was good.
Just a thought.
I've seen that myself. As I recall, the difference being that when it's the ig coil the stumbling is immediate when you stomp on it, when it's a fuel supply problem there's a slight lag as the bowl empties.
- Thread starter
- #149
3 Things I Seek Knowledge On
1. I need to know the amount of pressure that should be coming out of the fuel pump.
2. I was looking at the ground from the block to what I think appears to be the ignitor and it is pretty worn, black wire. Could this be the problem?
3. Does anyone have a coil, ignitor, and distributor from a FJ60? I think it would be nice to have an electric ignition. This will be installed once everything else has been checked out because I don't want to add one more variable to figuring out what is going on with my engine.
Thanks much
1. I need to know the amount of pressure that should be coming out of the fuel pump.
2. I was looking at the ground from the block to what I think appears to be the ignitor and it is pretty worn, black wire. Could this be the problem?
3. Does anyone have a coil, ignitor, and distributor from a FJ60? I think it would be nice to have an electric ignition. This will be installed once everything else has been checked out because I don't want to add one more variable to figuring out what is going on with my engine.
Thanks much
why, it just so happens I do.
Don't forget the engine side cover.
- Thread starter
- #152
I knew I forgot something thanks!
- Thread starter
- #154
got that too.no worries, it's all in the same box together.
Sweet, you have a PM coming your way.
Alright today has been a good one to me. I got the fuel pump tested and it is only putting out 2 PSI and I think it needs to pushing out 3 or 4. Does that sound right? This would make sense why I can get the engine to kind of idle and then fail after I put it in gear. I have one coming in from Dan. Only 11 left in the world when I ordered, so I am glad I got one. Also if the fuel pump isn't the issue I see it as preventive maintenance.
Also I got the vacuum tested. I tested off the three lines going into the carb.
*Off the line labeled five on the carb. I had 30 with full throttle and 0 at idle.
*Off the line labeled thirteen I was getting 40 with full throttle and 5 at idle.
*Off the diaphragm I was pulling 0 for both full throttle and idle.
Finally I got the carb gasket paper to make up a new gasket for the base of the carb. What is the best way to cut out the circles in the paper. I was thinking scissors to get the general shape of the gasket and then an x-acto for the circles and other detail work.
alia176
SILVER Star
RIGHT ON dude, good going. Nice troubleshooting steps.
Assuming you have a vacuum advance on your distributor, check to see if that thing can hold vacuum. Sometimes a pin hole develops in the vac diaphragm and you don't get the vacuum advance under throttle. You'll need a vac pump to test it. If you don't have one, you can use mine.
Your idea with the carb gasket making seems logical to me.
- Thread starter
- #156
I don't have one so I will need to borrow yours if you don't mind. I'll drop you an email.
Pull the line off the distributer and kink it, then see what you have.
Edit: or just put your finger over the end. Check other spots like that too.
Edit: or just put your finger over the end. Check other spots like that too.
Also, you can put the gasket material over the base of the carb, then gently tap around the edges with a ball peen hammer and break the unneeded pieces off of the gasket.
Try to find a really small ball peen hammer so you don't damage the mating surface on the bottom of the carb.
