Ummm, I wonder if something is wired incorrectly.
Putting the Mojo Back in Bad Mojo (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Bad Mojo
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I had a Dodge pickup that had that problem. It had a resistor for normal running that the current for the ignition system went through. To start it there was a direct short through a different wire for a stronger spark. That resistor was fried. I'm not sure how the Land Cruiser system works, but sounds somewhat like the same thing. Did you figure out that other wire?
alia176
SILVER Star
Paul,
you can keep the rocker cover off the engine and run it that way for testing purposes. Don't worry, oil won't squirt out of the engine and hit the ceiling or anything!
It sounds like you can crank the engine but it won't start and run. Are you sure your spark plugs are sparking? Pull out any of the spark plug and then lay it on the engine somewhere with the spark plug wire attached. You can lay it next to any metal piece so that the threaded part (electrode) is touching some metal. Have one person crank the engine while the other person check to see if there is spark at the spark plug. You'll see an arc jump and may even hear slight "cracking" sound.
If there is no spark, then all bets are off. Figure out why the coil system is not producing spark.
late
you can keep the rocker cover off the engine and run it that way for testing purposes. Don't worry, oil won't squirt out of the engine and hit the ceiling or anything!
It sounds like you can crank the engine but it won't start and run. Are you sure your spark plugs are sparking? Pull out any of the spark plug and then lay it on the engine somewhere with the spark plug wire attached. You can lay it next to any metal piece so that the threaded part (electrode) is touching some metal. Have one person crank the engine while the other person check to see if there is spark at the spark plug. You'll see an arc jump and may even hear slight "cracking" sound.
If there is no spark, then all bets are off. Figure out why the coil system is not producing spark.
late
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- Thread starter
- #184
It looks like I have marching orders for tomorrow and I will do the spark plug test first to make sure I have spark and then I can go from there. Ali I will give you a call once I determine wether or not I have spark.
Thanks everyone for giving advice. I'm really pushing to have the 40 ready by the time school starts up again.
Thanks everyone for giving advice. I'm really pushing to have the 40 ready by the time school starts up again.
Look at the upper left of this diagram:
IH8MUD.com - View Single Post - Is it possible to down grade from electronic start to points iginition?
You are running fine when the key is in the start position, correct? The only difference is the resistor (the squiggly line) for the run position. Are you wired through that resister? You need to be or your points will not last. You can bypass it momentarily to see if it will run. If it runs, the resistor is shot (open). If it still doesn't run look at the wiring continuity from switch to resistor and resistor to coil.
IH8MUD.com - View Single Post - Is it possible to down grade from electronic start to points iginition?
You are running fine when the key is in the start position, correct? The only difference is the resistor (the squiggly line) for the run position. Are you wired through that resister? You need to be or your points will not last. You can bypass it momentarily to see if it will run. If it runs, the resistor is shot (open). If it still doesn't run look at the wiring continuity from switch to resistor and resistor to coil.
I think Steve might have it. Loose the resistor if you are still wired through it. Steve, Paul has installed a FJ60 electronic ignition. No points. I still think something is not wired correctly.
From my wiring diagram you only need ignition power to the igniter. That's all. The igniter then hooks up to the two coil terminals and a lead goes to the dizzy. Make sure you have a good ground off the igniter bracket. The truck won't run otherwise. Run a wire to the battery if necessary. The black wire off the igniter is for the tach, not ground.
I suspect electronic ignition doesn't need the resistor, but it may vary depending on the model.
- Thread starter
- #188
I have spark and I am going to check my wiring.
Here is the wiring I have right now.
I have a red wire coming in low by the starter it also has the oil sensor in the same run. The red wire used to be attached to the side of my old dizzy.
Next I have a red and a white wire running from the ignitor to the dizzy. There is no other plug that will take the two wires. This connection makes sense.
Off the ignitor I have a yellow wire with a female green connector on it.
Off the positive stud of the coil I have a white wire that has a male connector on it.
Off The Wiring Harness Going Along Passenger Fender:
-Red Wire with male green connector
-White with black stripe that has a loop end. It appears to be a ground.
-Thick (bigger than all the rest which are the same) black with yellow stripe
--Of the thick one I have a smaller black and yellow with old school female plug
-Black wire with white stripe with female green connector
Pictures soon to fallow.
Here is the wiring I have right now.
I have a red wire coming in low by the starter it also has the oil sensor in the same run. The red wire used to be attached to the side of my old dizzy.
Next I have a red and a white wire running from the ignitor to the dizzy. There is no other plug that will take the two wires. This connection makes sense.
Off the ignitor I have a yellow wire with a female green connector on it.
Off the positive stud of the coil I have a white wire that has a male connector on it.
Off The Wiring Harness Going Along Passenger Fender:
-Red Wire with male green connector
-White with black stripe that has a loop end. It appears to be a ground.
-Thick (bigger than all the rest which are the same) black with yellow stripe
--Of the thick one I have a smaller black and yellow with old school female plug
-Black wire with white stripe with female green connector
Pictures soon to fallow.
You have spark when the starter is not engaged? How do you know?
From the FJ60 wire diagram:
Both of the coil wires from the igniter should have had ring terminals on them.
I think many of the wires you have from your old ignition system are not used. Only the B-y should be hooked up to the igniter and that should be it.
Image below. This goes to the coil and igniter.
- B-y comes from the ignition switch. Goes to the positive terminal on the coil and to the igniter.
- There are two wires coming off the igniter that go to the dizzy. These should be in a single connector.
- There is the second wire (unmarked) that goes from the igniter to the negative side of the coil.
Both of the coil wires from the igniter should have had ring terminals on them.
I think many of the wires you have from your old ignition system are not used. Only the B-y should be hooked up to the igniter and that should be it.
Image below. This goes to the coil and igniter.
- Thread starter
- #192
Recap
Once I connected the thick black and yellow wire to the coil and ignitor my car started. I have none of the green plug wires hooked up. I need to fine tune my timing.
But... I am still have the original problem of no power while under acceleration.
This makes me think that I am back to thinking it is my carb. Is it possible that once I accelerate that something inside the carb is supposed to release more fuel?
What I have done so far.
Replaced fuel pump
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced carb gasket
Install FJ60 coil, ignitor, and dizzy
I think I need to kill the chicken.
If anyone is free tomorrow come on by because I need some help figuring this one out.
Once I connected the thick black and yellow wire to the coil and ignitor my car started.
I have none of the green plug wires hooked up. I need to fine tune my timing.But... I am still have the original problem of no power while under acceleration.
This makes me think that I am back to thinking it is my carb. Is it possible that once I accelerate that something inside the carb is supposed to release more fuel?
What I have done so far.
Replaced fuel pump
Replaced fuel filter
Replaced carb gasket
Install FJ60 coil, ignitor, and dizzy
I think I need to kill the chicken.
If anyone is free tomorrow come on by because I need some help figuring this one out.
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alia176
SILVER Star
CRAP, it still runs just like before? I'm no expert but can I assume that the secondaries aren't opening? Does the Aisin have secondaries? Maybe it's a simple linkage issue. Anyone? Bueller, Bueller......?
Do Steve and Paul's carb setup look pretty much the same?
Do Steve and Paul's carb setup look pretty much the same?
I think I remember that you replaced the fuel filter too.?? if not, do it.
make sure the secondaries are opening. the second barrel of the carb should open with more fuel on full throttle. you can look down into it and see this when someone gives a WOT (wide open throttle), watch your face that no back fires happen while your head is over the carb. also check that the accelerator pump is in good shape(a plunger in the carb next to the bowl). my FJ45 has an issue with that. give it gas and it dies).
make sure the secondaries are opening. the second barrel of the carb should open with more fuel on full throttle. you can look down into it and see this when someone gives a WOT (wide open throttle), watch your face that no back fires happen while your head is over the carb.
also check that the accelerator pump is in good shape(a plunger in the carb next to the bowl). my FJ45 has an issue with that. give it gas and it dies).- Thread starter
- #195
I think I remember that you replaced the fuel filter too.?? if not, do it.
make sure the secondaries are opening. the second barrel of the carb should open with more fuel on full throttle. you can look down into it and see this when someone gives a WOT (wide open throttle), watch your face that no back fires happen while your head is over the carb.
I did replace the fuel filter and just added that to the list.
I will take a look at the carb tomorrow. I'll see what I can tell, without burning off my eye brows. I also saw this on CL and I don't know if it would help any, thoughts?
Fj40 43 45 55 Carb Kit Landcruiser
Good morning Paul,
On my 40, I have a stock carb that has been recently rebuilt by Mark at Mark's Offroad... we could do a temporary transplant to see if that solves your problem.
Guy
On my 40, I have a stock carb that has been recently rebuilt by Mark at Mark's Offroad... we could do a temporary transplant to see if that solves your problem.
Guy
alia176
SILVER Star
That's an excellent idea. By process of elimination, Paul can head another direction in an efficient manner rather than spinning his wheels.
That FJ60 is still listed at the U-Pull. It could be another donor. I know it will bolt to the manifold. Don't know about linkage.
- Thread starter
- #199
That would greatly appreciated. I'll drop you a PM in just a sec. Thanks!
Good idea, I thought about doing that and went I to go get it, but it was already gone.
Drat. I wonder how much of the FJ60 is left. I haven't been to the U-Pull in months and I'm starting to suffer withdrawals.
Something in the back of my brain is telling me that the vacuum is different from the carb to the dizzy between your FJ40 and an FJ60. I seem to recall a post where Mark said he would modify the carb during rebuilding with the correct port. Try searching the FJ40 forum on that.
Something in the back of my brain is telling me that the vacuum is different from the carb to the dizzy between your FJ40 and an FJ60. I seem to recall a post where Mark said he would modify the carb during rebuilding with the correct port. Try searching the FJ40 forum on that.
