I agree. I would install two. One that is hot all the time, and a second that is switched off the key. Do a search for the marine fuse blocks. Sure wish I knew about those before I did the 4Runner.
Putting the Mojo Back in Bad Mojo
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I agree. I would install two. One that is hot all the time, and a second that is switched off the key. Do a search for the marine fuse blocks. Sure wish I knew about those before I did the 4Runner.
1911
chupacabra
It's possible to have both in the same fuse block, though there's nothing wrong with having two. In the Farkleshop fuse block This is a Link it is possible to designate every circuit individually as either constant power or switched, and to change them back and forth at will. It even has a built-in relay for the switched circuits. I have one of these in my 40. The down side is, six positions is the biggest one he makes, and the total capacity of all circuits together cannot exceed 30 amps.
It is also possible with a little modification to make a 12-circuit Blue Sea marine fuse block half constant power and half switched. The Blue Sea blocks will take considerably more amperage if wired for it. If anyone is interested, I can post a link to another forum that explains the mod and wiring in detail.
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- #103
That would be great. I want to know all my options before I make my final choice.
The OBA project is a nice-to-have but I would make it a lower priority on your 40. You can get a high-volume portable electric compressor that will get you by for a long time. I put one in the 80 and it was expensive, frustrating, and easily took longer than any other mod I've done.
Tools-R-Us recommends the Puma air compressor + tank combo and the last time I checked they were under $100 on eBay.
-Mike-
1911
chupacabra
Here it is. This application is in an FJC but the fuse block modification and all wiring will be the same no matter what truck it is installed in.
12-CIRCUIT SWITCHED FUSE BLOCK: Installation w/ pics - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
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- #106
Good to know. The one reason for doing OBA early on is the compressor and the PS pump are one unit. And I don't want to damage the compressor without having the full system installed. Now that I think about it there is no reason I need to run air lines and tanks just yet. I should be able to just install the clutch, so I don't have the compressor engaged while the engine is on. Or, can I make it even more simple and manually disengage the clutch from the compressor.
David (2Manycruisers) has a York without any air lines or complicated wiring. He just plugs in an air hose when he is ready to air up. He has a pop-off valve that stays open until he hooks up the air hose then he manually closes it. It has a simple on/off switch to engage the clutch. He can give you the details. It sounds like he is planning to be at the December meeting.
-Mike-
-Mike-
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- #108
Thanks. That makes sense; I will talk to him for sure then. His system is nice because it so simple and he cuts out all the complicated stuff. That may the best way for me to install it for the time being because then it is at least in and the belt hooked up. Later on if I choose I can run lines and tanks. Once everything else is in I might go back for lines and tanks. Part of me says keep it simple and leave it alone and part of me says go that extra step and wire the switch to the Tuffy and then run a forward and rear line.
On my truck, simple and air tank were mutually exclusive.
The air tank adds the complexity of oil separator (York), air lines in/out and a manifold with quick connects. You'll need a pop-off valve, a check valve, a pressure switch, a pressure gauge, and then wire and mount an on/off switch. I used the flexible plastic air line they use on semi brake systems. Ali found some connectors that he likes. He has a thread in the 80 Section on his OBA system. I used the brass air hose connectors and they slow down the install and get expensive.Your York compressor is very fast without a tank. David is aired up before those of us with CO2 tanks.
-Mike-
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- #110
On my truck, simple and air tank were mutually exclusive.
Your York compressor is very fast without a tank. David is aired up before those of us with CO2 tanks.
-Mike-
Thanks again for all the information. It looks like I am going to the simple route for now. Later on most likely when the 40 goes under a frame-off I might go ahead and add all those other parts. By going that way I can see if I even want to do that and if I do what set up I want to use.
On a separate note I found out that 07 Volvo semi truck seat belts work really in 40, so is there a semi junkyard in town or near by that I find some seat belts? If not I may just order them in. Here is where I found out about them.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/287450-my-cruiser-beastly.html
DanS HJ-45
SILVER Star
Probably easiest to just buy then from the Volvo dealer, as you'd be surprised at how cheap most semi truck parts are. Because the entire vehicle is so expensive, they rarely get parted out until they are really old (and even then they usually just buy a glider kit and transfer all the important stuff over). But....
Broadway Truck Salvage is awesome to deal with. They've got more old stuff though.
Dan
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- #112
Good to know I will take a look at both then. I think I most likely will order them so they are new and I don't have to worry about any problems. I want to look at the mounts before I commit to them. I also just want to see if there are any cool semi parts that I can put on my forty.
...want to see if there are any cool semi parts that I can put on my forty.
airhorns perhaps?
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- #114
airhorns perhaps?
I will not lie I have thought about it. The forty horn is a little weak. It would be fun. Honk once with the stock one and if they don't move use the semi one. I have also thought about installing an external speaker under my hood and running that to my CB so I can have a PA system.
alia176
SILVER Star
I like the idea of two fuse blocks: one const hot and one IGN switched with the use of a relay.
As far the york, I agree, stay simple. Stick a quick disconnect female fitting (Normally Open) on the discharge of the york, slap a simple air filter on the intake and attach an alligator clip at the end of your clutch coil wire. When it's time to air up, stick the alligator clip on the POS batt terminal and off you go!
As far the york, I agree, stay simple. Stick a quick disconnect female fitting (Normally Open) on the discharge of the york, slap a simple air filter on the intake and attach an alligator clip at the end of your clutch coil wire. When it's time to air up, stick the alligator clip on the POS batt terminal and off you go!
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- #116
Sounds easy enough for the York. What is the best location for the fuse boxes? I am thinking in the Tuffy, but will they get too hot? Or perhaps underneath the glove compartment/pocket. The stock fuse block is on the driver's side on the door frame underneath the dash.
1911
chupacabra
Properly done, the fuse blocks should not run hot. You can put them anywhere convenient. On my 40, I put one in a Con-Ferr tool box right behind the seats just because it was pretty centrally-located but in the Tuffy would be just as good - as long as you don't have many big and heavy things rolling around loose in the Tuffy as well.
Also lots of real estate on the passenger-side kick panel and in the glove box. One of the neat things about the Farkleshop fuse block is that its small size gives it more mounting options than larger fuse blocks.
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- #118
Thanks 1911. I have to fab up a bracket for my Tuffy so it doesn't sit on my heater. I want to make one so I can do something custom. What I am thinking is something like this.
In the lower part put fuse boxes and at some point an amp if it fits. I also could start mounting electronics under the drivers seat, but I think I want them in something or up high. I like them under the Tuffy because that just gets them out of the way and I don't have to use my pocket. I could also put the Tuffy on a slide and have it go back. I like that idea the more that I think about it because it gets it out of the way, plus it is more trick.
In the lower part put fuse boxes and at some point an amp if it fits. I also could start mounting electronics under the drivers seat, but I think I want them in something or up high. I like them under the Tuffy because that just gets them out of the way and I don't have to use my pocket. I could also put the Tuffy on a slide and have it go back. I like that idea the more that I think about it because it gets it out of the way, plus it is more trick.
1911
chupacabra
Either hinged or sliding would be ultra cool. You would want relatively easy access to the fuse block. I have a stereo amp under my passenger seat; there is quite a bit of room under both seats in my 1980.
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- #120
It would be really cool to do the sliding, but I am curious if I can find a low profile slide. I might be able to mount on the inside of the box so I am not eating up vertical space. Also I talked to Diesel Dan and he made the valid point that I could just bolt the Tuffy down on top, because hopefully I don't every have to get in the fuse box, unless I am upgrading. And I can always leave a screw driver or a wrench in the Tuffy so I can lift it up. But I would have a super secret place. A lot to think about.
