Putting the Mojo Back in Bad Mojo

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We bought new seat belts from SOR. They haven't faded at all, about 4 years later.

Okay I will reconsider Spector then. I always have mixed feelings about there stuff. I was hoping to stay original, or find some that hook up back to the original wiring harness.

Painting is a very good skill to learn. Are you going to rattle can the doors, or what? If you have them blasted, you could have them epoxy prime them as well for you.

Dan
Okay I will reconsider sector then. I always have mixed feelings about there stuff. I was hoping to stay original, or find some that hook up back to the original wiring harness.

No I will end up actually spraying paint on them. We are hopefully ordering guns here pretty soon. Good call on the epoxy prime.
I cannot recommend the seat belts from CCOT.

Did yours fade out or just not work well.
everything from CCOT fades...BAD. my front fender park light is almost white. i have the Crow 4 point belts from SOR and they are doing great too.
Okay I am hearing SOR maybe the way to go with seat belts then.

Thanks everyone.
 
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Did yours fade out or just not work well.

They haven't been in Da'40 very long to fade. It's a function thing. They tend to lock up and not let go. I even had to get out of the truck once due to having a hard time breathing. Even after fully retracting them they would not unlock. It seems to happen all the time, though eventually they will release.

everything from CCOT fades...BAD. my front fender park light is almost white. i have the Crow 4 point belts from SOR and they are doing great too.

I haven't bought very much from CCOT. Mostly I'm happy. The sheet metal repair panels came from them and I was very happy with those.
 
They haven't been in Da'40 very long to fade. It's a function thing. They tend to lock up and not let go. I even had to get out of the truck once due to having a hard time breathing. Even after fully retracting them they would not unlock. It seems to happen all the time, though eventually they will release.



I haven't bought very much from CCOT. Mostly I'm happy. The sheet metal repair panels came from them and I was very happy with those.

Wow, that doesn't sound good. Diffidently going to stay away from those then. Currently mine just won't retract all the time. It seems like their metal products are good though. You and Dan if I remember correctly have used their replacement parts and have seemed happy with them.
 
For sheet metal I used their rear quarters, rear sill, and L & R rockers. I was happy with the metal and the bends. I was clueless on the install.

:grinpimp:
 
Aliment

Just finished doing my front end aliment and my 40 drives 100% better. It tracks straight and some of my steering slope has gone away. It has been reduced to about an 1/8 of a turn. I can't wait to see what it drives like with new steering parts on it. After several wrong measurements. My dad and I came up with a slick way to measure the front to back change. We put 2 jack stands with a piece of wood over them that spanned the diameter of the tire on each side so we had a consent place to measure that was also parallel to the other measuring point. We made sure to measure on the bottom of the the wood so we could get accurate measurements each time, and it allowed us to miss the front axle shaft. Also thanks to Ali who I called late to make sure I had my measurements right.

436829156_1518899380_413429334_1-2.jpg
 
Nice job Paul and Cy. You guys came up with a clever method that produced consistent readings. kudos.
 
I have been pretty busy with school and everything else, but that doesn't mean I haven't slipping some hours in working on my Land Cruiser when the chance arrises. Thanks to Ali my vehicle was able to come to school with me, because he helped me wire up a really slick kill switch.

Also seeing that there was a FJ62 at the U-Pull meant I had to check it out. And I found something I have been wanting for a while, a clock. The plan is to pull my stereo/tape deck and put the clock there along with some other switches and lights perhaps. So I will need to design kind of plate and figure out if I want anything else there. Suggestions? Stereo and future Ham and CB radio will be moved to a Tuffy, a custom center counsel, or a bar that ties into my roll cage. All the fabrication of everything is easy, but figuring out the wiring is a bit more difficult because only 1983 40s were designed to have a clock, so I have to tap into the harness on my own. What I really need is a FJ62 wiring diagram because I need to know what all four wires go to to. So if anyone has a diagram available that I could look at in person that would be great. Thanks

Clock
ClocjFront.jpg

ClockWires.jpg

ClockBack.jpg

Yes there is 2 white wires that feed into one plug, and the clock is made by Jeco Japan
 
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You don't own a watch? Wouldn't it have been easier to buy one :flipoff2:. I wonder if my friend still has his manual from he had his 62.
 
You don't own a watch? Wouldn't it have been easier to buy one :flipoff2:. I wonder if my friend still has his manual from he had his 62.

Very true, but that isn't the point. I want a clock! I think it would be a cool mod to do. Thanks for checking about the manual.
 
Let's see. Four wires, eh?

  • Position 1 on connector, W-B. Ground.
  • Position 2 on connector, G. From "tail fuse" via switch.
  • Position 3 on connector, R-B. From dome fuse, 7.5A.
  • Position 4 on connector, R. From cig fuse, 15A.

So,
The red wire comes from a switched source.
The red wire with a black trace comes from the battery (always hot).
The green wire comes from the tail lights.
The white wire with black trace is ground.

Si?
 
Let's see. Four wires, eh?

  • Position 1 on connector, W-B. Ground.
  • Position 2 on connector, G. From "tail fuse" via switch.
  • Position 3 on connector, R-B. From dome fuse, 7.5A.
  • Position 4 on connector, R. From cig fuse, 15A.

So,
The red wire comes from a switched source.
The red wire with a black trace comes from the battery (always hot).
The green wire comes from the tail lights.
The white wire with black trace is ground.

Si?

By any chance would it make sense to have 2 grounds? The connector is a 4 prong and I have 2 white wires with black stripes coming from the same plug. This seems pretty easy to wire up then.
 
You don't need the second ground. It comes from the cigarette lighter. Just cut it off.
 
Cool that is pretty simple to do then. I will still have plenty of space on the face plate should I add anything else right away? I know I can always add onto it to it later.
 
After seeing people talk about using old A/C compressors as compressors as on board air I had to take a look and see what all the hype was about. It mostly offers a nice way to air up a flat or air up after a trail run, so I said sure why not. It is all pretty easy to do it looks like, the most challenging part is making an oiler for the compressor because they are normally lubricated by the freon. So I get home and tell my dad what I want to do and of course we make plans to hit the junkyard the next day. I had researched before and had a list of of cars that use York compressors. I sure as hell wasn't going to put a Jeep part in my cruiser and I was already in the import section so I started looking at old Volvos after about 5 or so we just aren't seeing anything that looks beefy enough to used, but at the end of row 34 there was a surprise. A 1983 Volvo 240 Wagon had just what I was looking for, plus a little something extra. I found a double stacked air compressor and power steering pump! All it requires is one belt to run both and it should fit perfect where my old seized smog pump used to sit. The timing couldn't be more perfect because my carb has decided to have a mid life crisis and needs to be rebuilt, so that means I can take apart my front clip, and fit both power steering and onboard air at once, and not worry about getting it back on the road right away. The great thing about the combo as well is that it has a plate that attaches to the block and then to the combo, so I can mount just the plate and then the unit, which is nice so I don't have to be holding the entire unit at once.

Front
ComboFront.jpg


Right
ComboRight.jpg


Left
ComboLeft.jpg


Back
ComboBack.jpg


Bracket that acts like a tensioner
ComboBracket.jpg
 
Good score! Have you checked the York (that should be a 210) to see if it works?

BTW--I have cardboard templates of the steel I cut for the 60 series PS conversion, if you want to use them.

I also picked up some assorted steering components (why didn't I go talk to Dan first--he had them sitting on the shelf) to get the 60 series PS swap done. I'll put some pics up (and probably order a custom rod tomorrow after I mock up what I do have) in the diesel section later today.

What's the carb doing? Is it going to Mark Algazy?

Dan
 
Good score! Have you checked the York (that should be a 210) to see if it works?

BTW--I have cardboard templates of the steel I cut for the 60 series PS conversion, if you want to use them.

I also picked up some assorted steering components (why didn't I go talk to Dan first--he had them sitting on the shelf) to get the 60 series PS swap done. I'll put some pics up (and probably order a custom rod tomorrow after I mock up what I do have) in the diesel section later today.

What's the carb doing? Is it going to Mark Algazy?

Dan

Yep it is a 210. I haven't seen if it works and I was going order a rebuild kit anyways so I can do the rebuild, install it, and not worry about it.

Ya that would be great. It will be a tight fit with everything and I want to mock it up all first. I will check on your thread and see who everything is going on it. Good to know Dan has the parts.

We think it is the carb because over the last couple weeks it has been idling really oddly and when it is in first I have to floor it to get any response and the last time it was driven it smelled strongly of gas and was losing power and the engine was barely running. And the last time it was rebuilt was in 1994 and it was done on at the shop on 4th street, so I am thinking the job wasn't very good. I will be calling Mark in the next couple of days and should have it sent out by the end of the week. Also we will start to replace all the vacuum line while we are waiting for it.
 
check your points too. that has the hint of a points problem too.
 
check your points too. that has the hint of a points problem too.

I will for sure. Can points go bad in less than 7 months? I know I could just have a bad set. I will check them regardless and run through everything and make sure everything is hooked up and working correctly.
 
Also we will start to replace all the vacuum line while we are waiting for it.

I've seen vacuum leaks come on rather suddenly and the engine will react like that. IME, carb problems manifest more gradually.

-Mike-
 
I've seen vacuum leaks come on rather suddenly and the engine will react like that. IME, carb problems manifest more gradually.

-Mike-

I was going to say the same thing. Vacuum leaks were my enemy on the 60. Most of the time when I had problems with the engine not running right, especially not idling properly, it was due to a vacuum leak.
 

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