Putting the Mojo Back in Bad Mojo

[SteveLCetc]

Usually the reason points go bad is because the condenser (capacitor) goes bad. As current flows it sets up a magnetic field around the wire, and if you suddenly cut off the path (like opening the points), the inductance of the magnetic field will induce a large voltage spike which will arc across the points. The condenser takes that current pulse so there is not the large voltage spike. You can see this when you pull a plug out of the wall with an appliance on it that is running. (The voltage pulse is not good for the appliance and it will also build up carbon on the socket and plug so try to avoid doing that)

So, whenever you change the points you should change the condenser.

There will be a test later.

 

[Cruisergreg]

check your points too. that has the hint of a points problem too.

A failing ig coil can have similar symptoms.

 

[Bad Mojo]

I have decided to replace all the vacuum line before I send out the carb out. I want to make sure it really is the carb, and it doesn't hurt to have new line. Also, is there a good way to test the ignition coil and the condenser, or just replace them regardless?

 

[SteveLCetc]

I'd change the vacuum lines and if the points are ragged them too, along with the condenser. Then see how it runs... The condenser should, as I say, be changed with the points. I have only needed to change one ignition coil in my life.

 

[Bad Mojo]

I'd change the vacuum lines and if the points are ragged them too, along with the condenser. Then see how it runs... The condenser should, as I say, be changed with the points. I have only needed to change one ignition coil in my life.

Okay that should be an easy job. Looks like I will go see Dan this Friday and get parts. I will check the service records and see if the ignition coil has been changed.

 

[Cruisergreg]

Also, is there a good way to test the ignition coil and the condenser, or just replace them regardless?

Very simple. Just check the resistance across the two outer poles and the center pole. The primary winding is tested by checking across the 12V side pole and the center pole. Should be something like 10 ohms. The secondary winding is checked across the negative out pole and the center pole. It should be 10K ohms or more. A repair manual should have the specific values for your 40. HTH

 

[marcfj60]

Okay that should be an easy job. Looks like I will go see Dan this Friday and get parts. I will check the service records and see if the ignition coil has been changed.

Not to take business away from Dan, but stop by a NAPA for a bulk roll of the vacuum line. They probably won't have an exact metric replacement but they'll have something close enough (a little smaller) that will work. Of course the points and condenser would still be a Dan item.

 

[Bad Mojo]

Not to take business away from Dan, but stop by a NAPA for a bulk roll of the vacuum line. They probably won't have an exact metric replacement but they'll have something close enough (a little smaller) that will work. Of course the points and condenser would still be a Dan item.

Good point. I already bought some hose from NAPA and I just need to put it on.

 

[Bad Mojo]

Okay I have replaced all the vacuum line, but that hasn't fixed the problem and when starting the 40 I noticed that only half of the carb was getting fuel, so my father and I have pulled the carb so it can get send it out. (Line was cheaper at CDan with the discount, just make sure to buy the 2ft lengths.) Also when we pulled the carb we found gas sitting in the manifold, so we are thinking the carb needs a rebuild and when you look at the carb there is build up of some kind as well.

The carb is going off to Mark, does he offer a desmog kit, because I think I have done a partial desmog, and I want to make sure I have covered all my bases, so when my carb comes back in I want to know my engine will be performing the best it can. I know some might say don't desmog, but the air pump went, so desmog was the best option.

With the carb off is there any preventive maintenance I should be taking care of? Also with the engine some what apart I think we might powder coat some parts of it. I really liked Jon's blue.

 

[1911]

The carb is going off to Mark, does he offer a desmog kit, because I think I have done a partial desmog, and I want to make sure I have covered all my bases, so when my carb comes back in I want to know my engine will be performing the best it can. I know some might say don't desmog, but the air pump went, so desmog was the best option.

If Mark doesn't offer a de-smog kit, Jim C. does. I used his kit to de-smog mine. His kit does not include a blank-off plate for the EGR flange on the exhaust manifold, but you can buy that from MAF pretty cheaply or make one. Mine runs much better and smoother since de-smogging, I was very pleased with the result - but I had some broken BVSV's and who knows what else what not working. In my experience, the most difficult part of the de-smog was figuring out the official de-smog vacuum line diagram, but once you figure out all the acronyms it falls into place.

 

[SteveLCetc]

What is the situation with desmogging a vehicle registered in Bernalillo county vehicle now?

 

[pappy]

Cannot, unless it's older than (I think) 1975.

 

[Bad Mojo]

Interesting on the desmogging issue. Because the last time I had my emissions done they only stuck the probe in the tail pipe and asked if the vehicle had a cat or not. (77=no cat) With the partial desmog it was passing emissions. Does anyone have any experience on this? At some point I was going to add a cat when I redid the exhaust, but will that buy me much with the emissions folks. Due they want it passing, with the smog equipment, or both?

I thought once the vehicle is over 35 years old aka a 1974 it doesn't even have to get it's emissions checked anymore. Am I making stuff up? I can always call and ask.

 

[Bad Mojo]

So I had a couple minutes of spare time and I wanted to know more about the whole smog issue, so I looked it up. This has the most information on the subject. 20.11.100 NMAC It talks about "Anti-Tampering", but it only clearly states cats being tampered with, so I am in the clear? There is a plate in the door jam that says this vehicle never came with a cat. So I am still a little unclear, so I am going to call my mechanic this week because he does the AirCare testing and see what the deal is.

 

[pappy]

Go here:
20.11.100 NMAC

Search the page for "1975" and will find several references to dos and don'ts.

 

[marcfj60]

Also keep in mind that some AirCare techs aren't smart enough to know how to deal with vehicles built right around the transition years of cat vs. no cat. Some will look for it. If it's not installed, you fail. They don't even know to check or find out if a cat was installed originally or not. The last time I got my 60 tested, the tech made me turn off the truck before he started the test and then restart it later. Then when I started it up, a puff of smoke came out (because I gave it a squirt of gas to start easily) and he darn near failed me for the 'visible smoke'. You're supposed to have the engine running at full operating temperature and you do not shut off the engine the entire time you're waiting in line or until the test is done. I'm sure it doesn't matter for OBD-II or newer cars since they don't use the Exhaust Gas Analyzer on them but you shouldn't tell someone to turn off their vehicle before you've confirmed that you won't need the analyzer.

My first vehicle was a '76 Datsun pickup that ran on unleaded gas but didn't have a cat. It required emissions testing but I don't recall ever being harassed for not having a cat.

If your 40 will pass emissions with no air injection system, good for you. My FJ60 wouldn't. When I first got it, the supply hose from the pump was split. It failed, I found the split hose, put it on and then it passed. I had to fiddle with the carburetor, timing, vacuum leaks, timing advance diaphragm,..... every 2 years to get it to pass.

 

[BionicCruiser]

you do not need a cat. period. the door tag, as you mentioned, says "non catalyst". my '77 was the same. it took regular gas in it's day.

now, removing the smog pump is another whole deal. that was required equipment. if you can get away with it, fine. if you hit someone knowledgable in testing, they may get you on it.

 

[Bad Mojo]

you do not need a cat. period. the door tag, as you mentioned, says "non catalyst". my '77 was the same. it took regular gas in it's day.

now, removing the smog pump is another whole deal. that was required equipment. if you can get away with it, fine. if you hit someone knowledgable in testing, they may get you on it.

Good to know. I think I may hold off on the desmogging and just see how everything goes once I get the carb back.

I have also constructed another list of things that must be accomplished before my beloved Cruiser comes back to school with me.

-Deal with Carb
-Install Window weatherstripping, so I don't freeze when I drive because I must drive with my window down because the glass rattles very badly.
-Power Steering (I have pump, rebuilt FJ60 Box, FJ60 Steering Linkage. I know I am missing everything after the pitman arm, anything before it?)
-If I am installing the PS pump might as well install compressor at the same time which means get the rebuild kit for it.
-That means I need to place the tanks and run all the lines. Hard or soft lines? May need skid plate.
-Wire the clutch for the compressor
-That switch will go on the Tuffy that needs a little love on the front so it worked out well. (Its bashed in) I am going to wire some other switches for lights that will go on later. I am also adding cup holders!
-Problem with the Tuffy though is it didn't come with a key, which is okay I got a new set for the back doors, so I am going to see if it possible to key the Tuffy, backdoor, and hood latch to all the same key.
-Brake Lines

Those are the things that need to get done. Luckily I have a month off from school in two weeks to knock all of this out, but I would like to start ordering parts in now so I have everything I need. With that in mind I feel like I need to meet with Dan about power steering and Ali because I know he has done onboard air and some trick electrical work. But that doesn't mean there isn't fun things do to do on the cruiser.

Fun.
Clock
Seat track extensions
Storage
Jump Seat Project
New fold down tailgate for the summer when I am running with out a top.

In the long run I plan on running two extra front lights, winch, two extra back lights, CB, Ham, and a decent stereo and who knows what else I will think of to add. Do I need to start updating my electrical system so it will be ready for all of this. Sub fuse box? Dual battery? I would rather do this once and do it right and I am in no huge rush to get all of those items in. Thats a lot of stuff and money. Also the most important thing is before I go adding things I may not even need; I need to get out in my vehicle. Sadly I will miss the snow run because of school, but plan on making any over my break, which includes the New Years Run.

Comments and thoughts always welcomed.

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Paul:

I am sort of in limbo, but very well may not go back to work until January (I love incompetent training departments). Give me a call when you can. I'm hoping my relay rod shows up today, because the rest of the 60 series PS conversion is all done. It'd be an easy way to show you how to link the 60 series gearbox to the 40 series tie rod...

Dan

 

[1911]

In the long run I plan on running two extra front lights, winch, two extra back lights, CB, Ham, and a decent stereo and who knows what else I will think of to add. Do I need to start updating my electrical system so it will be ready for all of this. Sub fuse box?

I would most definitely recommend an auxiliary fuse block, that's just about the first thing I put in any truck now, new or old. Makes life so much easier, safer and cleaner every time you add more accessories. Several good ones to choose from; Blue Sea, Farkleshop, etc.