Builds Project Snowball ❄️ 85 FJ60 Cummins 4BT/ HX-30 SUPER/ NV4500/ SOA (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter Hojack
- Start date
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- 4bt nv4500 overlanding soa
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Detailed pics of your catch can please.
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
- Thread starter
- #1,423
I got some 3/4” HDPE pipe which is flexible poly. Heated the pipe and hose clamped to the crankcase breather. Ran the pipe down to transfercase crossmember and installed the filter sump. I could only get 1” local so got one from Napa. It’s like the Goldenrod style I put on here a couple thread pages back. Installed 1”x3/4” bushings and poly adapters. Ran the 3/4” pipe after the sump along frame to just about the rear axle. With the 60 running it blows out good at the axle and is far enough back now that I don’t have the crankcase odor.
I was thinking of routing mine straight into the exhaust pipe, but my ambitions far exceed my skills.
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
- Thread starter
- #1,425
Attached at the crankcase breather with 3/4” black poly and hose clamp. This also helped keep my starter a lot cleaner. The oil mist vapor made it pretty sticky around the vent.
Ran line down to the filter housing. No filter inside just a sump used for collection.
Ran discharge poly as far back as I could to reduce any oil vapor odor.
End of the line and no more dripping oil.
Ran line down to the filter housing. No filter inside just a sump used for collection.
Ran discharge poly as far back as I could to reduce any oil vapor odor.
End of the line and no more dripping oil.
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
- Thread starter
- #1,426
The 60 turned out better than I even expected. Still some areas to address like my Tcase thumping when I hit bumps but it shifts great. Every manual takes some getting used to. Have no Tach yet so I’m listening to get used to hearing when I need to shift up or down. Really it’s made driving really fun again. Need to block the front half of the 4WD shifter hole as it’s letting a lot of noise in. Just covering with some cardboard cut the noise by half. Just dropped my dog Reload off for his 8 month neuter. I really hope this calms him down. He’s a bit too much at times for my wife but he’s getting better.
The 60 sat 15 minutes while I filled out paperwork. Came out and started the 60 and the fan came on. Nice to know it’s working as we get 2 days of heat coming.
One awesome thing is I have reverse figured out.
The 60 sat 15 minutes while I filled out paperwork. Came out and started the 60 and the fan came on. Nice to know it’s working as we get 2 days of heat coming.
One awesome thing is I have reverse figured out.
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
- Thread starter
- #1,428
My next project is the fuel neck has the reject flapper for diesel nozzle. Need to remove it. Looks like both @boots4 and @GLTHFJ60 say the neck needs to come out. Wish I knew that when the tank was empty... but such is life. Can I get the fuel low and pinch the soft fuel lines to prevent air from getting in and having to bleed the injectors?
Why don't you just drive it till it's 1/4 full, then pull the fuel neck out? Pulling the fuel neck out won't let air in anywhere, not sure why that's a concern.
Think of it like opening your fuel cap. Do you have to bleed your injectors every time you pull your fuel cap?
Think of it like opening your fuel cap. Do you have to bleed your injectors every time you pull your fuel cap?
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
- Thread starter
- #1,431
A friend of mines son had his recently rebuilt 7.3 runaway on him the other weekend while loading up to leave the Oregon dunes. He was unable to safely shut it off and destroyed the motor.
Reading a lot on the runaway which seems to be the silver bullet, besides the KDP, on the older diesel motors. Stalling in 5th with a manual and blocking the air off. These have shown to work.
I have a PacBrake Jake in the Dodge 3500. It works great. They make a positive shut off valve to shut off the air just before it enters the motor intake. They make one with manual pull cable and toggle version. They also have one to shut it off automatic off RPMs. Thought I’d throw this out there to the diesel crowd. After all the investment I’ve made, I’d like to safely shut my motor off before it runs away. It’s about $5-$600 for the toggle switch style. Main cause for runaway is the turbo oil seal goes out and oil starts leaking into the air side of the turbo and feeds the motor with its own oil. Having a device to stop it seems like a good idea to me.
pacbrake.com
Reading a lot on the runaway which seems to be the silver bullet, besides the KDP, on the older diesel motors. Stalling in 5th with a manual and blocking the air off. These have shown to work.
I have a PacBrake Jake in the Dodge 3500. It works great. They make a positive shut off valve to shut off the air just before it enters the motor intake. They make one with manual pull cable and toggle version. They also have one to shut it off automatic off RPMs. Thought I’d throw this out there to the diesel crowd. After all the investment I’ve made, I’d like to safely shut my motor off before it runs away. It’s about $5-$600 for the toggle switch style. Main cause for runaway is the turbo oil seal goes out and oil starts leaking into the air side of the turbo and feeds the motor with its own oil. Having a device to stop it seems like a good idea to me.
Pacbrake:PowerHalt Components
pacbrake.com
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The fill port is not in the bottom of the tank. Couldn't be, otherwise you wouldn't be able to fill it
IMHO, a manual air shutoff is not worth the cost. 5th gear and stall it. We're not driving 7.3l diesels, we're driving 3.9l diesels. Between your brakes and 5th gear, you should be able to stall it.
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
- Thread starter
- #1,434
Thanks for your input Johnny. I know you and Mike are a wealth of knowledge on the 4BT.The fill port is not in the bottom of the tank. Couldn't be, otherwise you wouldn't be able to fill it
IMHO, a manual air shutoff is not worth the cost. 5th gear and stall it. We're not driving 7.3l diesels, we're driving 3.9l diesels. Between your brakes and 5th gear, you should be able to stall it.
I got that, I can see the fuel line on the passenger side of the tank up to the fuel neck. I drained the unleaded out so I know where the fuel drain plug is. I was thinking if I empty the fuel tank the fuel in the lines could drain back and allow some air to enter the fuel lines.
As far as the runaway it looked like good news for a manual and killing it with 5th gear. Still as much as I’ve put in this the PACBRAKE positive air shutoff looks like easy insurance. I’ve watched plenty of videos with 4BTs running away in box vans. I’m sure those vehicles neglected maintenance which caused it. I guess for me it knowing I could safely shut it off.
Point is you don't need to completely drain the fuel tank to remove the fuel neck.
Even if you did, there would be very little air that actually gets in the lines. As an example, I had to replace the aluminum fuel lines in my truck with steel fuel lines, because the AL failed after about 5 years (abrasion). Fuel lines were completely removed, then new lines fabbed and installed. Only thing I had to do was prime with the lift pump and she was good. The rest of the air in the system was purged while it was running.
One-time getting air in the system due to a fuel leak that's quickly repaired isn't a bad thing. Running the entire engine and filter dry, as I have stupidly done a few times, is when you need to bleed the injectors.
If you want to put it in, it won't hurt anything.
The fill port is not in the bottom of the tank. Couldn't be, otherwise you wouldn't be able to fill it
^^wrong
You're right. In my head it was above the seam. Important part is the fill neck vent is high up I guess.
@GLTHFJ60 That pic also shows the vent ports at top. Did you keep the spaghetti mess or close off those ports? The biggest one is for that filler neck vent line that should be kept but the rest I capped off because I took out that multiport thing in the quarter panel. I haven't had any issues with vacuum on the fuel tank but I think others might have.
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
- Thread starter
- #1,440
So to prep this looks like I need to pressure wash that area so I don’t get debris in the tank. Once the hose is off then cap line to tank to keep any debris out. Did you guys reuse the short fuel hose or get a new one.
