Builds Helga: 1966 FJ40 FST (1 Viewer)

[KennyBob]

Sorry, I'm being lazy. Have you had the upper thermostat housing off? If not, start there. If thats blocked off, take off the water pump, if thats blocked off, I would start researching on here about cleaning out the block out manually. There are some good threads here on mud about doing a deep clean of the cooling passages, but to start, you need to get fluid and cleaning agent a way to get in there and do their job.

No worries. I appreciate any and all help. I have had both off and did my best to clean out what I could see/reach. I’m also suspecting at this point that the block drain is clogged as well based on the nastiness I was digging out with a screwdriver and the fact that the old heater valve was completely clogged.

 

[EWheeler]

No worries. I appreciate any and all help. I have had both off and did my best to clean out what I could see/reach. I’m also suspecting at this point that the block drain is clogged as well based on the nastiness I was digging out with a screwdriver and the fact that the old heater valve was completely clogged.

May as well just remove the entire block drain assembly, not just the drain plug (its two pieces). Rod around as much as you can through the heater valve hole, also the hole next to it, I think there are two holes in the head right there. Use small detailing attachments connected to a vacuum to remove the loosen junk. Do the same from below through the block drain. You can pour some water into the top holes and see if anything drains out. If no luck, I think you're removing freeze plugs and doing a full cavity search. Even if you get communication from heater port to block drain, you still need fluid communication from front of engine to back

 

[KennyBob]

Progress today! Replaced the points with a pertronix unit and she’s running smoother. I’ve also got a dribble of water coming out of the rear block drain! I’ve been poking that thing with various pointy objects and I’ve got non-sudsing dish soap circulating currently.

Been keeping tabs on temps with a laser thermometer and all looked well and good. Not any hotter in the back of the block than the front. And temps seemed consistent between the radiator and block.

 

[KennyBob]

Well I couldn’t put it off any longer. I had to give the 80 a little TLC this weekend instead. In the form of a new starter, new shoes (thanks @77mustard40) and some Rad Rubber skirts!

 

[KennyBob]

So this happened today…

 

[KennyBob]

Well what I assumed to be the stock oil filter canister someone painted orange turns out to be something entirely different and unknown.

 

[KennyBob]

Now I’m at a crossroads. Do I try to find a factory Toyota canister? Or do I run this thing and get a new filter?

 

[daner]

Depends-Do you have an accurate oil pressure gauge? And, is being completely stock the goal?
I ask about the oil pressure gauge as I had a Nissan Patrol that someone swapped the oil filter on. It had almost zero oil pressure even though the motor was rebuilt. Swapped in the stock setup, and the pressure was right where it should be. I don’t understand how or why, but since tat time I have distrusted non-stock oil filter setups.

 

[KennyBob]

Depends-Do you have an accurate oil pressure gauge? And, is being completely stock the goal?
I ask about the oil pressure gauge as I had a Nissan Patrol that someone swapped the oil filter on. It had almost zero oil pressure even though the motor was rebuilt. Swapped in the stock setup, and the pressure was right where it should be. I don’t understand how or why, but since tat time I have distrusted non-stock oil filter setups.

Interesting. I suppose I’d like it to be stock given the choice. Like everything it depends on how much of a pain it is to obtain/retrofit. I believe I’m ok with oil pressure. I swapped a new gauge in and it seems to be reading right where it should be and it increases with throttle. Something I haven’t looked into yet is to make sure it’s flowing the right direction through the filter.

 

[rainingagain]

Now I’m at a crossroads. Do I try to find a factory Toyota canister? Or do I run this thing and get a new filter?

Me, I'd go back to stock. You can probably get one easily as it's common to "upgrade" to a spin on filter type.

 

[KennyBob]

Another little update. Started on the ridiculously difficult task of replacing the oil pan gasket back when I had her out of the garage for the first time a couple weeks ago. I realized too late how difficult and time consuming it would be. So after finally wrestling the pan free from the engine and attempting to pick a few chunks of very old and crusty cork gasket off I decided I started something I couldn’t finish in the time I had left in the day. So back on with the oil pan with a couple bolts and out came the 80 series to push it back in the garage.

Fast forward, I have successfully removed the vast majority of the old gasket on both the pan and the engine block over the span of two nights. Will likely do a little more digging gasket from the corners this weekend before reinstalling the pan.

This thing is easily one of the nastiest undercarriages I have ever worked on. There seems to be a lifetime of oil and dirt caked onto every surface. Also discovered a nice little layer of sludge in the bottom of the pan and some little chunks on the little oil pump screen. Otherwise she looked pretty good from what I could see. No obvious damage in the cylinder walls or anywhere else.

 

[tucker74]

That’s much easier to do when it’s sitting like this

 

[KennyBob]

That’s much easier to do when it’s sitting like this

View attachment 2988842

Lol, no doubt. But also a ton more work to get it in that orientation! I may end up having to do that at some point also. Depends on if the pan gasket stops the oil leak.

 

[KennyBob]

OK, I don’t get it… How does this filter actually filter oil? It appears to me that the oil enters the top of the canister hits the filter the drains to the bottom and returns to the pan.

 

[KennyBob]

Well unfortunately I spent what little wrenching time I’ve had recently on the 80 instead of the 40. Good to get stuff knocked out that needed done though.

Discovered my tie rod was bent after my last wheeling trip at Katemcy Rocks during the Roundup. No idea when I did it but not necessarily surprised to see it bent. Decided to upgrade it with a Slee HD version since I now know it’s somewhat vulnerable. No real hiccups to speak of and I got to use my toe adjustment tools finally.

 

[KennyBob]

After fiddle-farting around with the SD40 more times than I’d like to remember I decided to go a different direction…

As such, the original SD40 carb will be up for sale at some point.

 

[KennyBob]

I’ve also decided to go the surge tank route instead of the external in-line pump. From what I’ve read the submerged pumps tend to last longer and are quieter. Also, the added benefit of not having to redo any of the stock fuel delivery from the tank to the mechanical pump is pretty cool.

 

[Krondor]

Do you still have your stock distributor? Is there anything you need to do to it when swapping to the Autolite 1100?

 

[Chuckha62]

After fiddle-farting around with the SD40 more times than I’d like to remember I decided to go a different direction…

View attachment 3024017
As such, the original SD40 carb will be up for sale at some point.

THIS is the one! I’ve had a couple of chats with Holley and this is as clise to a drop in as we’ll find. Watching!

 

[KennyBob]

Do you still have your stock distributor? Is there anything you need to do to it when swapping to the Autolite 1100?

I still have the stock distributor. I don’t believe I have to do anything with it. I have however already converted it to a pertronix electronic ignition. There are more advanced ignitions out there but I’m 99% sure they aren’t needed with the sniper. I don’t know if any are compatible with the early 1F engine. I would imagine there are.