- Thread starter
- #201
Well s***. Does anyone have a spare F.D cable?
Builds Helga: 1966 FJ40 FST
- Thread starter KennyBob
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #202
Also found this little Easter egg…
The PO that did this and the other farmer fixes must’ve really lived in BFE. Any temp sensor will do. Correct thread or depth be damned!
The PO that did this and the other farmer fixes must’ve really lived in BFE. Any temp sensor will do. Correct thread or depth be damned!
HelloKitty65
SILVER Star
Here's a discussion on the reflectors. I don't know when, or if they became factor installed by '66.
Post in thread 'Making early rear reflector instructions' Making early rear reflector instructions - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/making-early-rear-reflector-instructions.1064941/post-11729572
- Thread starter
- #204
Not much obvious progress this weekend and sorry for the lack of pictures… I got new Stratolite reflectors in and installed, got the heater blower to come on, cleaned up the garage a little, aired up tires to see if they hold air, received new FD cable and assembly thanks to @pardion, and started on the passenger front drum.
- Thread starter
- #205
Made a little more progress this weekend. Unfortunately most of it ended in issues to solve. First and foremost so far is my brake fittings. It seems that every single one of the hard lines was tightened to the point of mushrooming the end of the tube inside the fittings. Once I was able to pry the them loose my problem becomes repairing or replacing these T fittings. I’ve ordered an M9x1.00 tap to try cleaning them up. We shall see how that goes. Anyone have a line on replacement T’s?
Common problem with the 9 mm fittings. Maybe you can drill and tap to 10 mm or 3/8?
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- #207
Hmm perhaps. I’ll see how the tapping goes. Would love to find an off the shelf source.
Hi mate, great work on the SD40, I show how to repair the concave issue on my YouTube channel.
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- #209
That’s where I got the idea!!! Awesome channel. Thanks for sharing all the knowledge.
- Thread starter
- #210
Had some good progress last night and tonight and of course another set back. Wouldn’t be as slow without them.
Got the ol’ SD40 carburetor built back up and seemingly running well at idle.
It still stumbles a bit if I give it too much too soon but responds well-ish to slow steady increases.
And for the new problem… I suppose I need a new one of these heater valves on the head. The handle is loose and I can’t open it. Any pro tips on getting the old one out?
Got the ol’ SD40 carburetor built back up and seemingly running well at idle.
It still stumbles a bit if I give it too much too soon but responds well-ish to slow steady increases.
And for the new problem… I suppose I need a new one of these heater valves on the head. The handle is loose and I can’t open it. Any pro tips on getting the old one out?
tucker74
Moderator
Never worked on one that old, but believe the whole “T” unscrews once you remove that hose.
Tucker
Tucker
- Thread starter
- #212
Well I’m still struggling to get the carb and timing tuned right. I’m not sure which one is giving me grief currently. I have the dizzy set to cylinder 1 at the BB (7 BTDC?) on the flywheel and it seems like it wants more timing. Perhaps setting it another tooth further when I stab it is what it needs. Don’t know. I did notice this neat little groove cut into one of the cap’s electrodes(?). Brand new cap and rotor.
The carburetor seems to be ok except that I couldn’t seem to get it to want to idle without the choke on.
On top of all that I can’t seem to unclog the coolant system past the thermostat. No coolant is exiting the drain on the block.
Yet again I need help from the cruiser gurus it seems. Lend me your knowledge!
The carburetor seems to be ok except that I couldn’t seem to get it to want to idle without the choke on.
On top of all that I can’t seem to unclog the coolant system past the thermostat. No coolant is exiting the drain on the block.
Yet again I need help from the cruiser gurus it seems. Lend me your knowledge!
tucker74
Moderator
I had just read this about cleaning out the block, may be helpful:
forum.ih8mud.com
Request for advice where to start our 71 project
PS, don’t worry about how ugly the engine looks compared to the carburetor. We are just getting it running so we can confirm the motor is good. It has been sitting for a long time, but was supposedly rebuilt. Once we know it runs we can tear it all down and build it back up to look as nice as...
forum.ih8mud.com
tucker74
Moderator
You’ll definitely have to play with the timing to get her to run well, did it smooth out with some advance?
Tucker
Tucker
- Thread starter
- #215
It did yes. I’m out of room now though as the dip stick is in the way.
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- #216
Well I feel like a bit of an idiot. After chatting with @CenTXFJ60 about my current issues he suggested a valve adjustment is probably in order since I have no idea how long this motor sat. Planning to knock that out today and see if it helps my tuning issues. From there I’ll keep working on unclogging the coolant passages. Wish me luck y’all!
- Thread starter
- #217
Well today was a lot of work and not a lot of progress unfortunately. I adjusted the valves (cold), plugs, points. Re-stabbed the dizzy. Still runs like s***. Then I ran out of gas.
No luck on the coolant clog either. Got the heater valve off though. It was completely clogged. Ordered a new heater valve from Napa. Hopefully that will help.
Moved on the brakes and made good progress there. Helps to have new wheel cylinders. Had to build a new hard line due to it having a kink it and it snapping in half when I started to remove it. Only have 1.5 wheels left to do though!
Unfortunately these persistent setbacks probably mean that I won’t be taking it to Lonestar Roundup next weekend like I had hoped.
No luck on the coolant clog either. Got the heater valve off though. It was completely clogged. Ordered a new heater valve from Napa. Hopefully that will help.
Moved on the brakes and made good progress there. Helps to have new wheel cylinders. Had to build a new hard line due to it having a kink it and it snapping in half when I started to remove it. Only have 1.5 wheels left to do though!
Unfortunately these persistent setbacks probably mean that I won’t be taking it to Lonestar Roundup next weekend like I had hoped.
EWheeler
GOLD Star
It sounds like you really need to get into the block and do some manual rodding/agitation to try and clean all of the cooling passages. Hoping that they magically clear out while the engine is running sounds like its going to end not so well given what you’ve found, unless i am misunderstanding your posts.
You may need to go as far as removing all freeze blocks and getting in there and digging out the gunk
.
- Thread starter
- #219
I’m starting to think you are probably right. Obviously not something I was wanting to do. It’s looking more and more like what I need to do. I should probably replace the radiator as well give them that I just put a hole in it with water pressure from the hose. Oops.It sounds like you really need to get into the block and do some manual rodding/agitation to try and clean all of the cooling passages. Hoping that they magically clear out while the engine is running sounds like its going to end not so well given what you’ve found, unless i am misunderstanding your posts.
You may need to go as far as removing all freeze blocks and getting in there and digging out the gunk
EWheeler
GOLD Star
Sorry, I'm being lazy. Have you had the upper thermostat housing off? If not, start there. If thats blocked off, take off the water pump, if thats blocked off, I would start researching on here about cleaning out the block out manually. There are some good threads here on mud about doing a deep clean of the cooling passages, but to start, you need to get fluid and cleaning agent a way to get in there and do their job.
