Builds Project Pork Roll - 1970 FJ40

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Engine bay before and after:

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It seems to be running well so far. The only issues that I'm seeing are:

1. Slight oil seepage from valve cover - New gasket installed but just doesn't seem to be sealing right. I'm just happy that oil is getting to rockers now!
2. Some oil seepage from around the dipstick guide tube. I'm not sure if it is as easy as pulling it out and sealing it back in with some RTV.
3. It doesn't wander too badly but I'm going to change out the TREs anyway and align things up since the wheel is way off center. Placed my order with cruiser outfitters already.

I took to top off yesterday and just decided to store it in the garage for now. This will make it easier to install the rollbar and rear seats anyway, and it is a lot more fun to drive without it.

So now that it runs I'll be moving onto phase 2 ;)

  • Rollbar/front seat belts - picked up a nice one from a fellow mudder.
  • Rear seat install
  • New TREs and alignment
  • Replace rear sill and fix up the quarters
  • Install Spare Tire carrier
  • Fix exhaust
Pic of dipstick tube seepage:
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Hardly man! I took my 42 t oa show and everyone loved it even the guys with 100k cars. The rust and imperfection meant nothing to anyone. Most car guys are just that vehicle lovers. Met some great people
 
That is really close to me, I'm just down the road in Fairfield. In the condition that mine is in, would it just be the laughing stock surrounded by mint condition classics? haha
No please come there are no other 4x4s i usually get there around 6pm $3 to enter
 
I've been taking it for short rides and slowly working through some issues. Most of which were self-inflicted. For instance, it was running well so I decided to take it out the other night and attempt a short highway run. Well it started missing pretty badly and felt like the timing was out of whack. I limped home and pulled the cap off of the distributor. It turns out that I forgot the e-clip that holds down the points assembly :doh:. So it was working it's way upward! Fixed that issue, reset the gap and timing. Running really good now and the engine pulls strong.

I think I set the valve cover gasket on right where it isn't leaking oil anymore. Either way, I am still considering upgrading to the 2F cover with rubber gasket.

I had the Tie Rod Ends installed today. It's the first thing that I paid somebody else to do, I just didn't have it in me this week and wanted it done. There is a local shop that is reasonable, works on classic cars and has been around forever. If I get some time I'm going to try to center out my steering wheel and set the alignment tomorrow.

In the meantime I sanded down the rollbar that I picked up and sprayed it with black epoxy appliance paint. Very happy with the results.

Another little issue that I found was that the odometer is spinning backwards! I guess I screwed up somewhere when I had it in pieces! I actually find this one pretty funny. I think it will be awhile before I take a crack at fixing it since the rest of the cluster seems to be working fine.

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Looking good!

The distributor is still a stock 70-74 vacuum retard type. Do NOT connect any vacuum to it. Cap the ported vac fitting on the carb base and leave the retard fitting on dissy can open. Set base timing to 10-12*BTDC and drive it.

Drop in a vac advance dissy when you find one cheap.
 
Looking good!

The distributor is still a stock 70-74 vacuum retard type. Do NOT connect any vacuum to it. Cap the ported vac fitting on the carb base and leave the retard fitting on dissy can open. Set base timing to 10-12*BTDC and drive it.

Drop in a vac advance dissy when you find one cheap.

Hey @FJ40Jim Thanks for that bit of information. I definitely have it hooked up to the carb now. I'll set it up as you suggest once I get back home.

I set the points gap and then the timing, like I said everything seems to be running fine but I hooked up a dwell meter and I'm only seeing about 29. I'm going to try to set the gap so that the dwell is up where it should be and see how it runs.

In the mean time I had the exhaust pipe put on, I'll post some pics up soon.

The oil leak around the dipstick guide is the only main issue that I'm seeing. I was kind of expecting the rear seal or transfer/tranny to leak but I guess I lucked out... so far. I want to attempt to pull the guide out and then attempt to press it back in with some RTV but I'm afraid that I'm going to ruin the tube or even worse have to drop the oil pan again. I ordered a new guide tube from SOR just to have lined up in case I fudge this up.

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It's been a busy couple of months so I just wanted to post an update with the latest. I haven't really done much lately but I did end up getting a 2F valve cover. I also decided on outsourcing the rear sill replacement to a local welder/body shop guy. I already have the sheetmetal pieces so he is going to install the quarter patch panels, rear sill, and weld in the rollbar supports. I hope to get it to him sometime this week so I'll post pictures of the progress. It's going to save me a lot of aggravation and possibly my marriage :)
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Even though I replaced the dipstick guide tube and used RTV when putting it in place it still has some seepage. I even pulled it a second time and tried again. It's a minor issue but it is annoying the hell out of me.
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I did crawl under and clean up the bottom half of the transfer case and trans in order to get a better look at the leaks. The transfer case looks like it is leaking from the vacuum actuator. I bought a new gasket for that so I'll try to tackle it soon.
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@thebus I hope that I'll be able to get to that car show towards the end of the month. I'll definitely get in touch with you if I head up that way.
 
I took the cover off of the actuator and it just looked like the old original grease in there was just a little runny. I cleaned and greased it up and put the new seal on and it looks to be resolved now. One more thing knocked off of the list. I still have the dipstick leak but I'm not going to worry about that for now.

I was able to finally get Pork Roll over to the local body/welder guy this past Saturday. He is going to work on those patch panels and rear sill here and there when he has the time. I'm not expecting to get it back for at least a month or so. That is fine because it's getting pretty cold to ride around with the top off anyways. Once I'm able to swing by there I'll snap some pictures of the progress.

Since it was going to be spending some time sitting outside I found a cheap cover that fits pretty well. I really wanted a trail cover but had a hard time finding one that fits. I may attempt to make my own over the winter out of some sunbrella material if I can learn to use a sewing machine.

It seems as though it would fit with the hardtop and spare but I can't confirm that at this time. The cheapest price that I could find was through homedepot which was great because if it didn't fit I could just return it locally. ($53 shipped)

Classic Accessories PolyPro lll Jeep Cover-10-020-251001-00 - The Home Depot

I do think that I heard my 40 cry a little bit when I put Jeep cover on it. ;)


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I always assumed that the original color was Freeborn red but now I'm having second thoughts. Could this be Muleta red? Perhaps the experts could chime in. I'm getting the itch to tear it down in the early spring and repaint. Thanks in advanced if you can provide any insight!
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Just wanted to give an update. Pork Roll spent the winter months over at the local welder/body guy. He was supposed to work on it when time permitted but didn’t get a chance to do anything really :crybaby: I ended up just bringing it back home so that I can enjoy it and get some other work done now that the weather is better. He’s going to give me a call when time frees up for him.

My plan is to do a clutch replacement, mount the rear seat, refurbish the spare steering wheel that I have and work on the cluster/speedo. That should keep me busy this summer. Hopefully the body work will get done before the fall at some point.

Overall I really hope to drive it more and get some places with it this year.

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I was finally able to tackle replacing the clutch! This led me down the rabbit hole of hell but it was all worth it.... now that it is over :)

Some things that I took care of while i was in there...
  • Replaced rear main seal
  • Replaced oil pan gasket (again)
  • Changed all seals and most gaskets on the trans and tcase.
  • Sealed the oil dipstick tube correctly since I had the oil pan off again.
Issues that I faced, most self-inflicted.
  • I snapped two pressure plate bolts during removal. I then tried to extract them making more of a mess of things. I decided to cut my losses and purchased a used flywheel that was already resurfaced. Locally it would have cost me $80 to get mine resurfaced alone so I just bit the bullet and purchased the used one.
  • I had an issue with the pilot bearing that was sent to me in my clutch kit. The inner diameter was larger than it should have been. It was really odd, so I ordered a different one but it set me back a couple of days. I'm just happy that I took the advice that I read on here to test fit it.
  • I had to purchase a used vacuum shifter assembly for a new diaphragm cover. One of the bolt holes on the top of mine was broken when I disassembled it. Not sure if that was like that or if I did it while removing the trans/tcase.
  • I put the trans input shaft seal in backwards :( Thankfully I stumbled upon a thread that showed me my mistake. This cost me a couple of days as well since I had to wait for a new one.
Overall it wasn't too bad. Shout out to @Coolerman for documenting his build. I must have referred to it at least a 100 times. It took me just under two weeks altogether but a lot of that time was waiting on parts.

Getting the trans lined up and reinstalled was actually a lot easier than I anticipated. I used the engine hoist through the door technique and two 3" studs in order to line it up correctly. Also a jack on the bottom helped tilt it in.

The only issue that I was facing after it was all buttoned up was a slight squealing sound coming from what I think was the rear seal. Sounded like a fan belt almost. I read some threads on hear that mentioned that perhaps it wasn't lubricated enough on installation, but I don't think that was the case since I really lubed it up. Today I drove it up a steep hill like somebody suggested and it seems to have quieted down. I'll keep an eye on it but hopefully it is resolved.

Also, even though I sealed up the dipstick tube I'm still seeing oil gather around it. Turns out the it is spitting up a bit while the engine is running and then dripping off of the disptick top then down the outside of the tube. I checked my pcv valve and it is functioning normally, still happened even if I unplug it altogether. I ordered a new dipstick to see if it will seal better.

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I'm just going to drive and enjoy it for now. Going to work on some smaller stuff like dash knobs and refurbishing a spare steering wheel that I have.
 
Awesome 40. That Patina is sweet. If I were you I wouldn't paint it, it's only Patina once! Just my .02. I'm planning on keeping my 73' Patina'd out.

Maybe I missed it, but where did you source the rear disk break components? Was that JT Outfitters?

Thanks!

At this point I'm definitely just going to fix the rear rust and keep the patina.

The rear disk brakes were sourced from @Poser . I highly recommend them.
 
I was able to get the rear back together and new axle seals in. Thanks to the search function I learned how to get those spider gears lined up again. :clap:

The bearings and axles looked fine so thankfully nothing to do there. I was able to install @Poser rear caliper brackets and discs. Very high quality and everything fit as it should. The only issue that I came across was that I had to cut off a small section at the bottom of the casting on my Monte Carlo calipers in order to have them line up properly (see pic). After searching this site I came across somebody who posted about the same issue/resolution.

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Calipers/discs installed!
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New Tires and rims are on all four corners now:
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Next up on my list:
  • Finish painting the frame.
  • Fully install fuel tank and run new fuel line.
  • Run new brake lines to front/rear.
  • Reupholster front seats (already prepped and painted the frames)
I gave @FJ40Jim a call today to check the status of the carb rebuild. I learned a lot about the process and he provided great insight to the condition of my 40. Apparently a (rodent) feces packed carb is a bit of a challenge :eek:. I have faith that he can work his magic and get it working properly again. I really appreciated the knowledge that he shared on our short phone call.
He is a great guy, which reminds me I have another carb to send him! We need more folks like Jim. Old school knowleadge and then some.
 

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