I am guessing from the patina, poilshed up color, yours is Freeborn Red. Should be plate on passenger side fender facing towards motor. Amazing how old single stage can be polished up!
Build Project Pork Roll - 1970 FJ40
- Thread starter bulldog77
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #122
I thinks it’s freeborn red but I don’t think my plate has that info. I know it isn’t clear but this is the only plate on that passenger side.
I believe color code was 307. Hard to decipher on the plate. CCOT has a color chart with color codes for different years. Not positive Freeborn Red went back to 1970, but it WAS a long running color.
- Thread starter
- #124
I took the doors off today for the first time and installed some reproduction door straps. Still need to find a pair or reasonably priced brackets. Posted up a wanted ad here but so far nothing.
Has anybody ever fallen out of one of these? Somebody has got to have a story about somebody sliding off of the bench seat. I guess that is what the safety strap is for
Has anybody ever fallen out of one of these? Somebody has got to have a story about somebody sliding off of the bench seat. I guess that is what the safety strap is for
- Thread starter
- #125
I finally felt good enough about the way Pork Roll was running so I decided to take a ride (40 mile round trip) to the Jersey City/Hoboken waterfront this past Sunday. She ran great no issues all the way there. At some point on the way home I started noticing an unusual sound when running at high rpm. Almost like a fluttering sounding exhaust leak or something like that. Again I was running on the highway with the top and doors off so that is what it sounded like at the time. I also stopped for fuel and some other stops on the way home, so I'm not sure if this started happening before or after I filled up (may be totally irrelevant anyway).
Anyway, when I finally made it home and off the highway I can hear a knocking when revving high and also right at the first 3 seconds after starting the engine up. It is running fine and doesn't feel like it is lacking in power. You can't hear it at all at idle or low rpm. I used a stethoscope and it appears to be coming from towards the rear of the valve cover. I checked the timing and everything seems fine, I even tried to retard it a bit but that didn't help.
I plan on doing some more investigating tomorrow - pulling the valve cover off and looking around, pulling each plug wire one by one, compression check, etc. If push comes to shove I'll drop the pan...again. Any thing else that I can check please feel free to lend me some advice.
This sucks.... but I guess it is part of the "fun"
I'd really like to keep this original F engine going, but I know the popular opinion is to swap in a 2F if push comes to shove. Hopefully it isn't serious but everything that I read and my gut is telling me to expect the worst.
At least I was able to get some pics before the reaper started knocking.
Anyway, when I finally made it home and off the highway I can hear a knocking when revving high and also right at the first 3 seconds after starting the engine up. It is running fine and doesn't feel like it is lacking in power. You can't hear it at all at idle or low rpm. I used a stethoscope and it appears to be coming from towards the rear of the valve cover. I checked the timing and everything seems fine, I even tried to retard it a bit but that didn't help.
I plan on doing some more investigating tomorrow - pulling the valve cover off and looking around, pulling each plug wire one by one, compression check, etc. If push comes to shove I'll drop the pan...again. Any thing else that I can check please feel free to lend me some advice.
This sucks.... but I guess it is part of the "fun"
I'd really like to keep this original F engine going, but I know the popular opinion is to swap in a 2F if push comes to shove. Hopefully it isn't serious but everything that I read and my gut is telling me to expect the worst.At least I was able to get some pics before the reaper started knocking.
- Thread starter
- #126
I did some investigating today. Pulled the valve cover and everything seemed normal, nothing in the oil that seemed to indicate an issue and plenty of it making it to the valve train. I readjusted the valves just for the heck of it but nothing seemed too far off. The only oil pressure gauge that I have is the one in the cluster and it stays between the two marks as the FSM notes as being normal. I should probably get a mechanical gauge and will look into that tonight.
When I pull the #6 wire the knock goes away
From everything that I read it seems as though I may have a bad rod bearing. I'm torn on what to do next, should I pull the oil pan and confirm what I already suspect or just leave it alone until a nice 2F pops up in the classifieds. If I pull the pan, and confirm the rod bearing, I think that I'd be tempted to replace them from under the truck - of course I still don't know the root cause of why #6 would have this issue.
These were the readings from my cheap-o harbor freight gauge. I'm thinking that it may be off since some of the numbers seem too high but at least they give me an idea of what is going on. I'm going to try to pick up a quality compression gauge soon just to double check them.
Cylinder 1 - 140
Cylinder 2 - 165
Cylinder 3 - 165
Cylinder 4 - 130
Cylinder 5 - 170
Cylinder 6 - 160
It really sucks because it is running so well.
When I pull the #6 wire the knock goes away
From everything that I read it seems as though I may have a bad rod bearing. I'm torn on what to do next, should I pull the oil pan and confirm what I already suspect or just leave it alone until a nice 2F pops up in the classifieds. If I pull the pan, and confirm the rod bearing, I think that I'd be tempted to replace them from under the truck - of course I still don't know the root cause of why #6 would have this issue.These were the readings from my cheap-o harbor freight gauge. I'm thinking that it may be off since some of the numbers seem too high but at least they give me an idea of what is going on. I'm going to try to pick up a quality compression gauge soon just to double check them.
Cylinder 1 - 140
Cylinder 2 - 165
Cylinder 3 - 165
Cylinder 4 - 130
Cylinder 5 - 170
Cylinder 6 - 160
It really sucks because it is running so well.
- Thread starter
- #128
Man - that’s a bummerHow fast were you going on the highway? The F’s don’t like high RPMs ...
I kept in below 55mph.
I took the pan off yesterday. As suspected the #6 rod bearing was spun. The mains look fine. I never lost oil pressure, but that is going by the original cluster.
I know that this will probably be against popular opinion but I'm leaning towards just swapping out the rod and main bearings from under the truck. I suspect that this may have been self-inflicted. Perhaps I didn't prime the engine well enough from when I pulled the pan a few weeks ago during the rear main seal/clutch job that I did. Could it be that some damage was done but didn't really manifest itself until I took it out for that long ride/high rpm?
Either way, i plan to give it a shot as a cheap fix to buy some time for a good 2F to pop up for sale. Also going to install some mechanical gauges to keep a closer eye on things along with a tach. Will prime the hell out of the engine before startup too.
@bulldog77 Just read through this. I have a 71 with that same, sweet oxidized red. Many years ago I had also planned to do a frame off with mine, but then it sat for 6 years (through school and a cross-country move). So now I just want to drive it! I'm a bit behind you, but I should be able to drive around this summer/fall.
Concerning the spun bearing. I think you are on the "right" path. Obviously a rebuild would be best, but since that's not feasible what's it going to hurt? The motor is already toast without a rebuild.
Keep up the good work!
Concerning the spun bearing. I think you are on the "right" path. Obviously a rebuild would be best, but since that's not feasible what's it going to hurt? The motor is already toast without a rebuild.
Keep up the good work!
- Thread starter
- #130
I wanted to update this thread since I haven't in a while. I was able to easily swap out the rod bearings with the engine in place, only the #6 one was bad. Even though the mains looked good I decided to try to roll them out and change them while I was in there. That didn't go so smoothly. I couldn't roll the old ones out and then feared that I marred up the edges so I didn't want to keep them in there. At this point I was going to remove the engine so I figured that I should just go with a 2F and cut my losses.
I was on the hunt for a good running 2F but wasn't having much luck. The engines that I came across were all out of area, basket cases, or very expensive rebuilt engines that looked like pieces of art (5k+). Those that were available around me would have been risky as far as condition and on top of that pretty costly. I just didn't have the time to pick up another engine that would need work done to it.
I came across Pioneer Engine in Pennslyvania (1.5 hour drive from me). They remanfacture engines, mostly for forklifts, onsite and have been in business for over 50 years. They had a rebuilt 2F in stock. After speaking to Rick a few times I gained enough confidence to pull the trigger on it. I realize that they most likely didn't use "Toyota" parts but knowing that they've been in business for so long and have a very good reputation made me trust their judgement on what goes into their rebuilds. They also offer a 1 year guarantee on it. Everything was ready when I arrived and the staff there was great. I left there thinking - man, that seems like a great place to work! lol
I already removed the old engine and now I'm just prepping some of the smaller odds and ends. I'm hoping to have it installed and up and running over the next week or so. I'll post some progress once I get moving.
I was on the hunt for a good running 2F but wasn't having much luck. The engines that I came across were all out of area, basket cases, or very expensive rebuilt engines that looked like pieces of art (5k+). Those that were available around me would have been risky as far as condition and on top of that pretty costly. I just didn't have the time to pick up another engine that would need work done to it.
I came across Pioneer Engine in Pennslyvania (1.5 hour drive from me). They remanfacture engines, mostly for forklifts, onsite and have been in business for over 50 years. They had a rebuilt 2F in stock. After speaking to Rick a few times I gained enough confidence to pull the trigger on it. I realize that they most likely didn't use "Toyota" parts but knowing that they've been in business for so long and have a very good reputation made me trust their judgement on what goes into their rebuilds. They also offer a 1 year guarantee on it. Everything was ready when I arrived and the staff there was great. I left there thinking - man, that seems like a great place to work! lol
I already removed the old engine and now I'm just prepping some of the smaller odds and ends. I'm hoping to have it installed and up and running over the next week or so. I'll post some progress once I get moving.
- Thread starter
- #131
The new engine is in place! Mating the trans, which was still left in place, to the engine was a challenge but i eventually got it done. With both of them "moving" it was frustrating to line them up. If I had to do it again (god willing i won't) I'd probably remove and install them all in one piece.
I'm just waiting for the intake and headers to come back from the powder coater, hopefully they will be ready tomorrow. In the meantime I primed the engine and confirmed that oil is making it up to the valve train. I have oil pressure while cranking which I can now verify with my mechanical gauges in place so the distrib is seated correctly.
Fuel pump is working as well and everything seems to be in place. I wired up the new igniter/coil to the electronic distrib. Thanks to @Coolerman for the help with that and informing me that I needed a balast resistor.
I have the 78 distrib that has both vacuum advance and retard. I'm not sure how I should run it to be honest. Should I just cap both of them or run a vacuum line from my carb to the advanced input and cap the retard one. My old distrib was a vacuum retard type and I had it capped off - it ran great with an @FJ40Jim rebuilt carb....until the rod bearing sh%t the bed.
For my break in I filled it with 10w30 and added a bottle of lucas TB Zinc plus.
Hopefully I'll be able to post a video of it running again tomorrow.
Shiny new valve train:
I'm just waiting for the intake and headers to come back from the powder coater, hopefully they will be ready tomorrow. In the meantime I primed the engine and confirmed that oil is making it up to the valve train. I have oil pressure while cranking which I can now verify with my mechanical gauges in place so the distrib is seated correctly.
Fuel pump is working as well and everything seems to be in place. I wired up the new igniter/coil to the electronic distrib. Thanks to @Coolerman for the help with that and informing me that I needed a balast resistor. I have the 78 distrib that has both vacuum advance and retard. I'm not sure how I should run it to be honest. Should I just cap both of them or run a vacuum line from my carb to the advanced input and cap the retard one. My old distrib was a vacuum retard type and I had it capped off - it ran great with an @FJ40Jim rebuilt carb....until the rod bearing sh%t the bed.
For my break in I filled it with 10w30 and added a bottle of lucas TB Zinc plus.
Hopefully I'll be able to post a video of it running again tomorrow.
Shiny new valve train:
I took the doors off today for the first time and installed some reproduction door straps. Still need to find a pair or reasonably priced brackets. Posted up a wanted ad here but so far nothing.
Has anybody ever fallen out of one of these? Somebody has got to have a story about somebody sliding off of the bench seat. I guess that is what the safety strap is for
The safety strap is one of those hold over ideas that toyota saw on the bantam brc-40 that they had duplicated to be a better 4wd ute in 1944
You can see the strap here on Toyota’s first attempt at a jeep style Ute in 1944
The 1944 Ak-10 4wd trucks one a flat fender the other round
Toyota AK10 Picture
I'm new to his forum but I'm keen on Toyota history. The unusual suspension was because Toyota engineers had pre war links with German engineers. The Toyota engineers had access to designs that became the Beetle and Kublewagen. So Toyota used some of these features on the AK10 (torsion bars and...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #133
Pork Roll rolls again!
Still have to put on the trans cover and wrap things up but everything is looking good so far. I may install a tach but I'm not sure how to mount the one I bought, hopefully I can figure it out tomorrow.
Still not sure if I should cap the vacuum retard and advance ports on the distrib. It's running well as is.
Still have to put on the trans cover and wrap things up but everything is looking good so far. I may install a tach but I'm not sure how to mount the one I bought, hopefully I can figure it out tomorrow.
Still not sure if I should cap the vacuum retard and advance ports on the distrib. It's running well as is.
- Thread starter
- #135
The newly rebuilt engine is running great. No leaks! It’s kind of strange really.
Some if the recent stuff I’ve been working on...
Installed a tach
Toyota head light kit (81110-60P70)
Rear reflectors
Mounted the spare tire carrier
I’m starting to work on reconditioning a spare steering wheel that I picked up. Hopefully I can get that done in the coming weeks swap it out and replace the turn signal switch too.
Some if the recent stuff I’ve been working on...
Installed a tach
Toyota head light kit (81110-60P70)
Rear reflectors
Mounted the spare tire carrier
I’m starting to work on reconditioning a spare steering wheel that I picked up. Hopefully I can get that done in the coming weeks swap it out and replace the turn signal switch too.
- Thread starter
- #136
Just wanted to update some of the smaller stuff that I've been keeping busy with.
Refurbed a steering wheel to replace the one on my truck which was in very rough shape. Also tried my best to clean up the horn button. While it was apart I sanded down and painted the column and replaced the turn signal assembly.
Before and After...
Here is another shot...
I also took off my lower dashpads. Cleaned them up and sprayed them with SEM Color Coat (15243 satin black).
Today I installed some new oem bumperettes. Kind of odd the things that are still available.
I needed something cheap and removable to hold some coffee and my stuff. I picked this up from Amazon on the cheap. Going to glue some magnets to the bottom of it so that I can take on and off easily. Fits well and will serve it's purpose. Better than my pockets being emptied out onto the road when I make right turns.
I'm buying a bumper (HFS) and winch next month from a fellow MUD member. Really looking forward to it so that is the next major addition to come. Also trying to find a good upper dash pad without spending 500 bucks.
Of course my body work still needs to be done (at least the rear sill and rollbar supports). Been in touch with the local welder but doesn't look like his time is going to free up anytime soon. I think that I'm going to try to school myself and practice some sheet metal welding over the next few months. If by the summer he doesn't make any progress maybe I'll feel comfortable enough to go at it alone.
I'm also in the process of cleaning up my long jump seats. I may just post them for sale when I'm done. I know that there is a way to space them out to work with the rollbar but I also have my seatbelts to contend with. I'm thinking just getting the shorter ones that fit between would be best - although not original for a 70.
At this point I'm far off from original (2F, disc brakes, rollbar, aftermarket gauges, seatbelts, cup holder ) that it really doesn't matter.
Refurbed a steering wheel to replace the one on my truck which was in very rough shape. Also tried my best to clean up the horn button. While it was apart I sanded down and painted the column and replaced the turn signal assembly.
Before and After...
Here is another shot...
I also took off my lower dashpads. Cleaned them up and sprayed them with SEM Color Coat (15243 satin black).
Today I installed some new oem bumperettes. Kind of odd the things that are still available.
I needed something cheap and removable to hold some coffee and my stuff. I picked this up from Amazon on the cheap. Going to glue some magnets to the bottom of it so that I can take on and off easily. Fits well and will serve it's purpose. Better than my pockets being emptied out onto the road when I make right turns.
I'm buying a bumper (HFS) and winch next month from a fellow MUD member. Really looking forward to it so that is the next major addition to come. Also trying to find a good upper dash pad without spending 500 bucks.
Of course my body work still needs to be done (at least the rear sill and rollbar supports). Been in touch with the local welder but doesn't look like his time is going to free up anytime soon. I think that I'm going to try to school myself and practice some sheet metal welding over the next few months. If by the summer he doesn't make any progress maybe I'll feel comfortable enough to go at it alone.
I'm also in the process of cleaning up my long jump seats. I may just post them for sale when I'm done. I know that there is a way to space them out to work with the rollbar but I also have my seatbelts to contend with. I'm thinking just getting the shorter ones that fit between would be best - although not original for a 70.
At this point I'm far off from original (2F, disc brakes, rollbar, aftermarket gauges, seatbelts, cup holder
) that it really doesn't matter.
- Thread starter
- #138
One of my favorite rigs.
Thanks! Learning a lot as I go for sure.
For less than 10 bucks it will serve a good purpose. Making it removable will be easy.
TSI 80115 Black Mini Clutter Catcher
by Amazon.com
Learn more: Amazon product ASIN B00AV3WVDA
- Thread starter
- #139
One of my favorite rigs.
I see that you're from Idaho. What a beautiful state. Back in the early 2000s a close friend a mine became friendly with a grassfed beef supplier that was located in May Idaho. He would order beef directly from him and they would BS over the phone. This was way before grass-fed beef was available almost everywhere. Well... this gentlemen casually invited my buddy to come visit the farm. A few weeks later three of us city boys were headed out there. We helped him out for a couple of days herding, feeding, castrating
and weighing his cattle. It was one of the most memorable, educational and fun experiences I ever had. Sorry to ramble... when ever I see Idaho that is what I think of and we still talk about it all the time. Even have some videos...
Didn‘t they make a movie about you guys, city something? 
There are a few cows here in Idaho 
. We actually raise beef cattle, we have about 800 cows dropping calves right now (about 700 to go). My cruiser (‘s hopefully soon when I get the 45 put together) is my main rig for ‘servicing’ the cows and calves during the spring/summer/fall when they’re up in the dry ground where we live. Here’s my daily commute then.
If you’re ever back out this way let me know, in early April we can get a good meal of fresh Rocky Mountain oysters going after a long days work castrating
.
There are a few cows here in Idaho . We actually raise beef cattle, we have about 800 cows dropping calves right now (about 700 to go). My cruiser (‘s hopefully soon when I get the 45 put together) is my main rig for ‘servicing’ the cows and calves during the spring/summer/fall when they’re up in the dry ground where we live. Here’s my daily commute then.If you’re ever back out this way let me know, in early April we can get a good meal of fresh Rocky Mountain oysters going after a long days work castrating
.