Build Project Pork Roll - 1970 FJ40
- Thread starter bulldog77
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #82
I'm not sure on the width yet. I have to get over to this place to check them out since the guy said they have all different styles and types. I think they pull them from new vans to do custom interiors. I tried to find some spec info doing some google searches, from what i found a set of two should fit with room to spare between the wheel wells. I was hoping to squeeze in 3 but don't think they would fit.
I hope to get over there in the next couple of weeks. I'll be sure to post up some pics.
- Thread starter
- #83
Finished patching up some screw holes in the front heater so I painted and installed it. Also was able to get the trans tunnel and front seats in as well.
Also installed some new headlights and worked on my windshield wipers. The connectors were so brittle that I had to get replacements from coolerman. Everything is working as it should now.
I hope to get to the brake lines this week since the carb should be coming soon.
Also installed some new headlights and worked on my windshield wipers. The connectors were so brittle that I had to get replacements from coolerman. Everything is working as it should now.
I hope to get to the brake lines this week since the carb should be coming soon.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,200
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
The carb is now certified poo-free!
Here's where it started, rusted solid all the way down to the throttle body.
All of the shafts had to come out, blast everything, scrape the barnacles out of the bores, polish bores, scrape rust out of throttle shaft bores, drill & tap seized shaft screws, polish shafts, clean & flatten hammered throttle blades, clean & flatten top & bottom of t-body, countersink & chase holes...
Drill & press in ported vac advance fitting, reassemble all shafts & linkage...
And then flatten the main body casting, re-jet as needed, assemble...
aww, crap. No, literally, crap. This is a critical area inside the carb, so it has to be cleaned of this... residue.
Can this be fixed? Tune in later to This Old Carb to find out.
Here's where it started, rusted solid all the way down to the throttle body.
All of the shafts had to come out, blast everything, scrape the barnacles out of the bores, polish bores, scrape rust out of throttle shaft bores, drill & tap seized shaft screws, polish shafts, clean & flatten hammered throttle blades, clean & flatten top & bottom of t-body, countersink & chase holes...
Drill & press in ported vac advance fitting, reassemble all shafts & linkage...
And then flatten the main body casting, re-jet as needed, assemble...
aww, crap. No, literally, crap. This is a critical area inside the carb, so it has to be cleaned of this... residue.
Can this be fixed? Tune in later to This Old Carb to find out.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,200
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
This old carb, part deux.
There are 2 ways to clean the booster nozzle.
One way is in the ultrasonic tank. The tank solution will slowly dissolve zinc, and these old booster are made of an AL-ZN alloy.
The 2nd way is soft media blasting. It will not touch the alloy or brass, but there is a risk of getting media inside some hidden passage.
Media blasting is chosen, and quick and careful blasting gets them both clean with minimal risk of FOD.
Please don't sandblast carbs, and especially don't blast the old acrylic sightglass. It had to be replaced with a new glass sightglass.
More straightening, this time on the hella warped air horn, fabrication of choke speed link and CB link, and finally assembled.
My work here is done.
There are 2 ways to clean the booster nozzle.
One way is in the ultrasonic tank. The tank solution will slowly dissolve zinc, and these old booster are made of an AL-ZN alloy.
The 2nd way is soft media blasting. It will not touch the alloy or brass, but there is a risk of getting media inside some hidden passage.
Media blasting is chosen, and quick and careful blasting gets them both clean with minimal risk of FOD.
Please don't sandblast carbs, and especially don't blast the old acrylic sightglass. It had to be replaced with a new glass sightglass.
More straightening, this time on the hella warped air horn, fabrication of choke speed link and CB link, and finally assembled.
My work here is done.
- Thread starter
- #86
Thanks @FJ40Jim ! I'm looking forward to getting it back and bolted back on! Hopefully the rest of the engine will work as well as the carb now.
- Thread starter
- #87
I was able to get the brake lines run over the past few days. Flaring was a lot easier than I though it was going to be once I got the hang of it. I say that now but let's see if I'm not leaking at every connection when I fill it up. The front line is already connected to the master but I'm waiting on a proportioning valve to hook up the rear. I already bench bled it so hopefully their won't be any unexpected obstacles.
I put the rear doors back on with new stainless hardware.
I was missing one of the latches that hold the seat to the toolbox so I ordered some from McMaster-Carr. (1590A21) since I read that the originals are hard to come by. They fit pretty well. The top hole matched up fine but I did have to drill out the lower one.
The only thing left on my list is to finish up the brakes and bleed them. Also want to set the valve clearance (then i'll redo it with a warm engine later).
I'm hoping to take a half-day sometime this week to see those van seats. Will post pics and measurements if I do.
If I get the carb back this week maybe I'll be cruising this weekend!
I put the rear doors back on with new stainless hardware.
I was missing one of the latches that hold the seat to the toolbox so I ordered some from McMaster-Carr. (1590A21) since I read that the originals are hard to come by. They fit pretty well. The top hole matched up fine but I did have to drill out the lower one.
The only thing left on my list is to finish up the brakes and bleed them. Also want to set the valve clearance (then i'll redo it with a warm engine later).
I'm hoping to take a half-day sometime this week to see those van seats. Will post pics and measurements if I do.
If I get the carb back this week maybe I'll be cruising this weekend!
- Thread starter
- #88
Rolled it outside today to get some vitamin D.
- Thread starter
- #89
So I took a drive to Queens NY today to check out those Transit Van seats. For those of you unfamiliar with this area it is only about 21 miles away from me but cutting through NYC makes it over an hour each way 
. The seats were taken out of a brand new van and I was able to get them for $200. I feel like it was a fair price compared to what I've seen on Ebay and other sources. Especially when you factor in the built in seat belts. I took the bottom brackets off and just set them into the back of my 40. I'll have to make a couple of L brackets to attache them to the frame but overall I'm very happy. They are about 4" between the seat and wheel well on each side. At their widest they are about 32". @Varty Yo
Now it's time for a beer to decompress from NYC traffic.
. The seats were taken out of a brand new van and I was able to get them for $200. I feel like it was a fair price compared to what I've seen on Ebay and other sources. Especially when you factor in the built in seat belts. I took the bottom brackets off and just set them into the back of my 40. I'll have to make a couple of L brackets to attache them to the frame but overall I'm very happy. They are about 4" between the seat and wheel well on each side. At their widest they are about 32". @Varty Yo Now it's time for a beer to decompress from NYC traffic.
nice job! coming along great
- Thread starter
- #93
It doesn't have the isofix hooks in the front but does have tether anchors on the back of the seats.
- Thread starter
- #94
I received the carb and installed it! It was a rough first start to say the least. At first I had a 3 and 4 plug wire reversed, but even when I figured that out it was still difficult to start. After pumping the pedal and trying for a bit I was able to get it running
... but it was smoking a little so I shut it down. I noticed a couple of things; the oil dip stick smelled like fuel and a couple of oil leaks formed around the oil pan. It looks like most of my fuel dumped into the oil pan which I read was most likely indicative of a fuel pump failure. I ordered a new fuel pump and ended up dropping the oil pan to clean and paint it. It could have been leaking just because the oil was so thinned out and filled with fuel that it was able to seep out, but I knew that I needed to do the oil pan gasket eventually anyway.
I actually had a gasket that I ordered a while back from CCOT. I just realized that it is an aftermarket gasket, and after reading what others suggested I decided to be patient and order an OEM one. It should be in tomorrow so I hope to reinstall then and give it another shot over the weekend.
I also finished up the brake lines. I had a couple of leaks all around the three way toyota tees. I ended up ordering generic 10mm ones and it resolved the problem. I think that the original toyota ones that I had acquired had some corrosion at the flare point or the flare nuts that I am using didn't fully seat. Either way it seems fine now thankfully.
I'm hoping that the smoking that I saw on startup will be resolved with the new fuel pump (no fuel in oil) but we will see. It also hasn't run in at least 10 years so perhaps it needs to burn off some crud? It actually sounded good, I'm just hoping that there isn't valve seal or piston ring issues.
Getting closer to getting it running.... or finding out that I need to look for a new engine
... but it was smoking a little so I shut it down. I noticed a couple of things; the oil dip stick smelled like fuel and a couple of oil leaks formed around the oil pan. It looks like most of my fuel dumped into the oil pan which I read was most likely indicative of a fuel pump failure. I ordered a new fuel pump and ended up dropping the oil pan to clean and paint it. It could have been leaking just because the oil was so thinned out and filled with fuel that it was able to seep out, but I knew that I needed to do the oil pan gasket eventually anyway.I actually had a gasket that I ordered a while back from CCOT. I just realized that it is an aftermarket gasket, and after reading what others suggested I decided to be patient and order an OEM one. It should be in tomorrow so I hope to reinstall then and give it another shot over the weekend.
I also finished up the brake lines. I had a couple of leaks all around the three way toyota tees. I ended up ordering generic 10mm ones and it resolved the problem. I think that the original toyota ones that I had acquired had some corrosion at the flare point or the flare nuts that I am using didn't fully seat. Either way it seems fine now thankfully.
I'm hoping that the smoking that I saw on startup will be resolved with the new fuel pump (no fuel in oil) but we will see. It also hasn't run in at least 10 years so perhaps it needs to burn off some crud? It actually sounded good, I'm just hoping that there isn't valve seal or piston ring issues.
Getting closer to getting it running.... or finding out that I need to look for a new engine
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,200
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
Hell yeah it's gonna smoke after sitting for years.
Heater hose doesn't work on PCV because:
1. Not vacuum rated. Soft hose will simply suck flat & close off PCV flow.
2. Not oil rated. Hose will become spongy & fail in short order.
Also, chicomm PCV valve doesn't work like OEM.
Get some PCV or hydraulic return hose, 3/8id, and a new Toyota PCV
valve.
Heater hose doesn't work on PCV because:
1. Not vacuum rated. Soft hose will simply suck flat & close off PCV flow.
2. Not oil rated. Hose will become spongy & fail in short order.
Also, chicomm PCV valve doesn't work like OEM.
Get some PCV or hydraulic return hose, 3/8id, and a new Toyota PCV
valve.
- Thread starter
- #96
Thanks Jim! I will order what I need to now. I appreciate it.
- Thread starter
- #98
That gasket will work fine with a bead of FPIG ... FWIW
Good to know, thanks. I will save it for next time. I saw many posts of people saying what a pain in the butt it was to change out the gasket that I didn't want to do it twice! I actually picked up the oem one this morning and just installed it. Went a lot smoother than I imagined. Using @Poser 's suggestions on his thread helped big time (the string to hold the gasket and longer bolts). This site makes this
feel like a guy.
- Thread starter
- #99
I also installed new windshield mount oem side view mirrors, cowel vent gasket and like I mentioned the fuel pump. I ordered them all from @Racer65 and couldn't be happier with how fast they shipped.
Just have to wait for the FIPG to dry in order to refill the oil and give it another try. It will probably be on Sunday. I'll report back then - hopefully good news.
Just have to wait for the FIPG to dry in order to refill the oil and give it another try. It will probably be on Sunday. I'll report back then - hopefully good news.
- Thread starter
- #100
I was finally able to get her started! I had a little trouble getting spark this time around but once I adjusted the points gap that issue was resolved. Sounds healthy to me but it's probably been about 25+ years since i've heard a 40 run. Some smoke out of the tailpipe under heavy throttle but seems to be getting less and less the more I run it. I'm hoping that it's just burning off some 10 year old crud.
Oil pressure seems slightly high but after running for a while settled down. Temp seems to be staying in the normal range even though i left it idling for a half hour in 100+ temps today. I took a quick ride down the block but need to bleed my brakes again before attempting that again
No oil pan leaks so looks like the gasket change was a success.
I'm hoping to get those brakes bled today so that I can attempt a longer ride.
Oil pressure seems slightly high but after running for a while settled down. Temp seems to be staying in the normal range even though i left it idling for a half hour in 100+ temps today. I took a quick ride down the block but need to bleed my brakes again before attempting that again
No oil pan leaks so looks like the gasket change was a success.I'm hoping to get those brakes bled today so that I can attempt a longer ride.