Builds Project Pork Roll - 1970 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

My biggest suggestion for you is too clean all the grounds you can find and the fuse holder, most problems I ever had with the electrical were due to bad ground connections and fuse contacts. That will get you ahead of the game

Thanks for the advice. I will clean up each ground that I find as I go!
 
I used a flap disc on a grinder to smooth out and get rid of most of the surface rust on the rear bed and wheel wells. Then I hit it with a rust encapsulator to help prevent the rust from coming back. A red weldable primer was used to top it off. The pictures don't do it much justice but it's a pretty close match to the worn paint, especially on the exterior! I didn't cutaway the sill yet because I'm waiting on the replacement panels from CCOT. There is also about a 1" x 10" section that needs to be repaired where the wheel well meets the bed.

I'll continue to tackle the surface rust on the floorboards upfront sometime during this weekend. I also plan on pulling off the trans tunnel cover in order to clean up underneath it.

Some progress is better than nothing. Still a lot of parts cleaning and painting to do.
IMG_0246.jpg
IMG_0240.jpg
 
I was able to pull the trans tunnel cover off and get to cleaning up. It was a mess. Sort of like cow manure caked all over...for all I know it very well may have been cow manure. I scraped and wire brushed as much as I could and then just kept wiping it down. The main goal of cleaning this up is to see any leaks once I do get this up and running. I already know that the parking drum seal on the transfer case is leaking so I'm definitely going get the parts ordered for that.

Here are some before and after photos. I'll keep plugging away.

IMG_0271 (1).jpg


IMG_0273.jpg


IMG_0291.jpg
 
That t case and transmission cleaned up very nicely! If CCOT has the gas tank you need listed on their web site you can buy it directly from Toyota for less and save the shipping costs.
 
That t case and transmission cleaned up very nicely! If CCOT has the gas tank you need listed on their web site you can buy it directly from Toyota for less and save the shipping costs.

Thanks, I will check with my local toyota dealer. I originally tried to order through an online dealer site but they told me that it was discontinued.
 
A quick update to how this project is coming along.
  • A lot of cleaning, blasting and painting of the smaller parts.
  • Ended up getting a Toyota fuel tank from a dealer online. The cheapest I found was just under $350 shipped.
  • I had a hose shop crimp on new hose to the original fittings for the fuel and oil lines. I have the material for the hardline but I'll wait to get my carb back to bend that pipe.
  • I finally started some reassembly! The new clutch slave cylinder is in. I'll hook the line up once the master cylinder goes in.
  • Finished grinding, treating the rust, and priming the interior. I have no plans to paint it anytime soon but did want to clean it up and slow/eliminate the surface rust.
  • I found some toyota disc knuckes for the front so once they arrive I'll start to clean them up in order to tear into the front axle.
In the week ahead I hope to start putting everything back together engine wise and work on the parking brake and drum/transfer seal. I'm going to stop by the carb shop on Monday to see if they made any progress.

I'm looking forward to hearing this thing run....eventually. Even though there will still be a lot of work to do before it is drivable.

IMG_0375.jpg


IMG_0378.jpg


IMG_0405.jpg


IMG_0364.jpg


IMG_0410.jpg
 
Subscribed.
 
Great work. Keep it up! Manure is just grass and water, lol.

Question on your motor. Is that original (i.e. block number matches VIN plate)? I ask because I would have thought a 70’s vintage 1F would have the PCV valve boss on the oil fill tube, but I don’t see that on yours. The oil fill tube looks like mine which is a ‘63 vintage. I could be wrong though, maybe someone with expertise will chime in.
 
My '70 had the PCV on the side cover. Mine has the same oil fill tube. 3/70 build date.
 
Great work. Keep it up! Manure is just grass and water, lol.

Question on your motor. Is that original (i.e. block number matches VIN plate)? I ask because I would have thought a 70’s vintage 1F would have the PCV valve boss on the oil fill tube, but I don’t see that on yours. The oil fill tube looks like mine which is a ‘63 vintage. I could be wrong though, maybe someone with expertise will chime in.


The engine block number is F310858 which seems to match up with when it was produced - march 1970. I was wondering about the pcv as well though since we noticed others had it on the oil tube. Just realized that the exhaust manifold isn’t original. It doesn’t have the heat riser, not sure how that will effect how it runs. I guess we shall see.
 
I guess we shall see.
That's the fun part, eh?!! I'm in the same boat, so to speak.

David1947 cleared up the non-issue I raised. :clap:
 
Received my disk brake conversion parts through the mail. The mailman wasn't up to the task of carrying the heavy packages to the porch :) I was able to clean/blast them along with my parking brake parts today I hope to get some paint on them tomorrow. Not sure if I should rebuild the calipers that came with them or just get some remanufactured ones from the auto store, they are less than 40 bucks each.
IMG_0415.jpg
IMG_0421.jpg
 
I also picked up my carb from a local rebuilder. Seems as though he isn't up for the task so I mailed it out to JimC in Ohio. It may take another 4 weeks to get this 40 running but from what I hear it is worth the wait!

It also snowed about a lot here today. There is an 80 under there somewhere.
IMG_0439.jpg
 
I disassembled the front axle in order to get ready for the disc brake conversion. Received my rebuild kit with bearings from @cruiseroutfit - thanks for the great service and fast shipping. I did find some damage in the inner knuckle housing on the driver's side (see pic). It doesn't look like it will interfere and I'm hoping to clean some of it up when I remove some material for the larger birfs.

IMG_0498.jpg
IMG_0487.jpg
IMG_0495.jpg
 
I think you can carefully clean that up with some dremel action!
 
Hopefully I'll be getting things back together again really soon. I'm also looking forward to ordering a yellow zinc hardware kit once they are back in stock from @davework (overland metric). This will really help button things up nicely.

I bought a Aisin brake master and booster from an 80 series a while back on ebay. The problem is that I'm not sure if it was from an ABS vehicle or not. Is there anyway to determine? I can't seem to find a part number on it or anything like that. Thanks.

IMG_0501.jpg
 
Turns out that master/booster is from an ABS FZJ80 so I'm going to sell it and get a non-abs booster. I'm going to attempt to do a non-boosted 4 wheel disc setup so that I don't have to deal with any carb clearance issues. I'm curious to see how @Rigger likes his setup on "Hard ways" since mine is going to be pretty much exactly the same.

The plan was to start putting everything together tomorrow but I just realized that I need new axle snap rings :doh: Our local Toyota dealer said that if I order by 5pm they will have them tomorrow. So hopefully that works out so that I can get some work done this weekend.

I was able to use a grinder to clear the housing for the larger birfs. I also used a dremel on the drivers side to clean up some of that marring that I found. Making progress but still at least 3 weeks out from getting the carb back anyway so I have plenty of time.

IMG_0509.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom