Project Onboard Air: York Compressor
- Thread starter AppleTech
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- Thread starter
- #42
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/209172-york-onboard-air-kit-interest.html#post3107864
That is the link to the possible production thread. If you have posted already here, please repost on that thread so I can get a head count!
Thanks
That is the link to the possible production thread. If you have posted already here, please repost on that thread so I can get a head count!
Thanks
alia176
SILVER Star
Here's a nice wiring diagram that can be useful pic
Your York clutch is replacing the elec air comp, otherwise, everything else is the same.
You can use a lighted switch with this diagram so that the light comes on when the York is running and the light goes off when the York is stopped (reached pressure). No need for a separate light or a press gauge inside the cab for a clean look.
Good luck.
Your York clutch is replacing the elec air comp, otherwise, everything else is the same.
You can use a lighted switch with this diagram so that the light comes on when the York is running and the light goes off when the York is stopped (reached pressure). No need for a separate light or a press gauge inside the cab for a clean look.
Good luck.
We are reinventing the old wagon wheel. Wooden spokes and all!
In the early '80's we used to use older Chevy trucks to chase desert buggies all over the desert in off-road racing. We used York Compressors to make air systems on-board. We also used engine-driven generaters to run welders in the middle of nowhere.
Then we invented high-output alternators and power inverters. It is a new world!
Many new cars are not even using a drive belt to run the AC. They have an all-electric AC unit that runs off of the alternator. The engine makes the electricity, and the systems use it.
12 volt electric compressors are more efficient than the old belt-driven ones are. Even 110 volt compressors are easier to connect than the belt-driven types. Both types push more air for the fuel used than the old styles can.
The 110 volt ones require the use of an inverter that also allows the use of other appliances while camping. Margaritas, anyone?? With crushed ice! Lunch? Put it in the microwave!
Putting a compressor into the engine bay of an old Chevy truck was no problem. The bay was the size of a locomotive with very little in it. The 80 engine bay is as full as it can get on a good day. Shall we add a new belt and one more system? A stronger alternater takes up very little space, if it is even needed.
In the early '80's we used to use older Chevy trucks to chase desert buggies all over the desert in off-road racing. We used York Compressors to make air systems on-board. We also used engine-driven generaters to run welders in the middle of nowhere.
Then we invented high-output alternators and power inverters. It is a new world!
Many new cars are not even using a drive belt to run the AC. They have an all-electric AC unit that runs off of the alternator. The engine makes the electricity, and the systems use it.
12 volt electric compressors are more efficient than the old belt-driven ones are. Even 110 volt compressors are easier to connect than the belt-driven types. Both types push more air for the fuel used than the old styles can.
The 110 volt ones require the use of an inverter that also allows the use of other appliances while camping. Margaritas, anyone?? With crushed ice! Lunch? Put it in the microwave!
Putting a compressor into the engine bay of an old Chevy truck was no problem. The bay was the size of a locomotive with very little in it. The 80 engine bay is as full as it can get on a good day. Shall we add a new belt and one more system? A stronger alternater takes up very little space, if it is even needed.
alia176
SILVER Star
You'd be hard pressed to inflate a set of 35" tires from 15 to 35 psi using a 12vdc elec air compressor in less than 20 mins. A mechanical York or Sanden can easily beat that!! Regardless, this thread isn't about the merit of elec vs mech so I'll keep my mouth shut
Back in 2002 I made a spreadsheet with specs of the available 12V compressors on the market at that time. The ExtremeAir was way ahead of all of them with 4 CFM@0 psi. However the specs for the TrailHead unit (A York driven with a winch motor) came in at 14 CFM@0 psi and 8 CFM at 100 PSI.
A decent shop compressor will be belt driven with an oil reservoir. While the drive motor is electric, the compressor head is belt driven. Any of the 110VAC package units (direct drive) that I have found cannot compete with a belt drive unit.
I'm not saying that you can't have OBA with an electric package unit. Many have that and are happy. However an OBA system is not simply a compressor. You need a pressure vessel to provide any sort of volume and space is limited unless you want to go with a custom made tank for your vehicle. With my small tank (2.5 gal) and my York running off the motor at 1500 RPM, the compressor cycles regularly while airing up 4 tires at the same time.
- Thread starter
- #50
Updates
So I picked up an H4 switch out of an FJ62 to install into my dash as the On/Off of the compressor. I re-labled it and it does illuminate at night (but it's not wired up yet):
I had to remove the wood to install my swithes - anything that works good for getting rid of that stupid residue? I used Goo-Gone, but as you can see it didn't do a great job.
The light switches are going to be for my front lights (whenever I get an ARB) and my please-don't-rearend-me-because-of-the-dust lights:
-Phil
So I picked up an H4 switch out of an FJ62 to install into my dash as the On/Off of the compressor. I re-labled it and it does illuminate at night (but it's not wired up yet):
I had to remove the wood to install my swithes - anything that works good for getting rid of that stupid residue? I used Goo-Gone, but as you can see it didn't do a great job.
The light switches are going to be for my front lights (whenever I get an ARB) and my please-don't-rearend-me-because-of-the-dust lights:
-Phil
- Thread starter
- #52
For anyone inspired or semi-inspired by this thread, I am selling some York compressors that I am able to grab locally. Selling for $60 + shipping. Let me know if you would like one in this thread. Info on how I test the compressors before purchase can be found here as well.
Head on over to this thread to sign up for one of Lumpdog's 1FZ-FE brackets. Slee also sells a kit on their website.
-Phil
Head on over to this thread to sign up for one of Lumpdog's 1FZ-FE brackets. Slee also sells a kit on their website.
-Phil
- Thread starter
- #53
So i just ordered a VIAIR 2.5g low profile tank that will fit up between the spare tire holder and rear axle.
My understanding is that the air coming out of the York will be very hot, thus you should use metal hose for the outlet... since I am going straight into my tank (at the back of the truck) from the outlet (front of the truck), how should i handle this? It wouldn't be cost effective to use metal braided line all the way back there, would it? Should I switch to standard air line after a certain length of braided line? Any advice here would be great.
Also, does anyone know a good source for the 1/4" NPT fittings, valves, gauges, lines, etc?
Thanks,
Phil
My understanding is that the air coming out of the York will be very hot, thus you should use metal hose for the outlet... since I am going straight into my tank (at the back of the truck) from the outlet (front of the truck), how should i handle this? It wouldn't be cost effective to use metal braided line all the way back there, would it? Should I switch to standard air line after a certain length of braided line? Any advice here would be great.
Also, does anyone know a good source for the 1/4" NPT fittings, valves, gauges, lines, etc?
Thanks,
Phil
I got most of my stuff from McMaster, and 4WheelParts.
Ok Phil, here's the skinny.
You should use a Teflon lined stainless steel wrapped hose for the first couple of feet or so, then you can run the DOT plastic airline from there to the tank. I run the DOT air hose everywhere since it is good for cold temps and some mild heat. Where it gets close to the exhaust wrap it with some header wrap to keep it from melting. I didn't and melted a tiny hole in the plastic.
You should use a Teflon lined stainless steel wrapped hose for the first couple of feet or so, then you can run the DOT plastic airline from there to the tank. I run the DOT air hose everywhere since it is good for cold temps and some mild heat. Where it gets close to the exhaust wrap it with some header wrap to keep it from melting. I didn't and melted a tiny hole in the plastic.
I haven't had any issues with the type B DOT brake tubing I'm using.
Of course, you need to keep it away from exhaust components (especially headers), but its good for over 200 deg. F by design and will actually take more.
i used fuel line for the whole shebang. No issues. Yes, any compressor gets real hot, but good quality, properly rated rubber line works well. Got almost all my stuff from home depot and mcmaster.
With the goofy exhasust and the boxed frame rail, there is one spot in the middle of the truck that is within a couple inches of the exhaust pipe, for two months it has been fine, but one good mud run and it melted. It is all GinericLC's fault!!
I still would run a piece of Teflon lined for the first bit to keep it reliable though. Every heavy truck on the road has either copper tubing or teflon hose off the compressor due to heat reasons.
I've been running the same piece of 3/8" supercheap PVC air line directly off my York for the last 5 or so years.
Never a problem, and it has been used extensively to run air tools etc.
Never a problem, and it has been used extensively to run air tools etc.
With the goofy exhasust and the boxed frame rail, there is one spot in the middle of the truck that is within a couple inches of the exhaust pipe, for two months it has been fine, but one good mud run and it melted. It is all GinericLC's fault!!
I still would run a piece of Teflon lined for the first bit to keep it reliable though. Every heavy truck on the road has either copper tubing or teflon hose off the compressor due to heat reasons.
Do as you wish.
